1000 Mi Oil Change

00328

Senior Member
Well, oil change went fine until I tried to put the skid plate back on. It took me twice as long to get the skid plate back on as it did to actually do the oil change.
Turns out I had bent one of those little hooks on the front of the skid plate and didn't realize it. For the life of me I couldn't figure out why I couldn't get the skid plate to sit flat, it was a little cock-eyed. What a PITA!
BTW Toyota is really stretching it when they call it a skid plate. That's the sorriest excuse for a skid plate I ever saw, more like a splash guard. Very flimsy.
I've always filled the crankcase with oil until it reaches the top mark on the dip stick. Doing this with the V8 it takes 7 qts. Toyota states 6.5 qts for an oil change, so I guess they only want you to fill it so that it is between the marks? Oh well, can't see a half qt making any difference.
MOBIL ONE!:cannon:

Pretty disappointed with that "skid" plate.
 
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00328 said:
Well, oil change went fine until I tried to put the skid plate back on. It took me twice as long to get the skid plate back on as it did to actually do the oil change.
Turns out I had bent one of those little hooks on the front of the skid plate and didn't realize it. For the life of me I couldn't figure out why I couldn't get the skid plate to sit flat, it was a little cock-eyed. What a PITA!

Yeah, I went through the same thing with one of the hooks. I'm going to try my next oil change from the top.

00328 said:
I've always filled the crankcase with oil until it reaches the top mark on the dip stick. Doing this with the V8 it takes 7 qts. Toyota states 6.5 qts for an oil change, so I guess they only want you to fill it so that it is between the marks? Oh well, can't see a half qt making any difference.
MOBIL ONE!:cannon:

Apparently, Toyota is applying the logic of specifying halfway between the extremes instead of at the upper end where up to a quart less is okay, but a little more is not. I wonder if the old "add at a quart low" custom came from the era when oil was in cans that took can openers and nobody added just 1/2 a quart.
 
My dealer does the filter changes from the top. I don't know how they do it, must just hire guys with long arms. When I asked why they don't do it from the bottom, their excuse was that they found when you keep taking that front skid plate loose that it starts to rattle and they got complaints about the skid plate noise so they started doing them all from the top. If I did it myself I would have to do it from the bottom and I'm sure you could comeup with something to eliminate any impending rattle.
 
I would like to be able to do oil changes from the top, but I would think it would be pretty messy since you spill about a half qt when you loosen the filter. Plus you would need to have pretty long arms and it would be somewhat awkward.
People do change it from the top though.


Do most of you guys fill the oil to the top mark on the dip stick?
 
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00328 said:
I would like to be able to do oil changes from the top, but I would think it would be pretty messy since you spill about a half qt when you loosen the filter. Plus you would need to have pretty long arms and it would be somewhat awkward.
People do change it from the top though.


Do most of you guys fill the oil to the top mark on the dip stick?

They spill it all over the skid plate and then try and wash it off. I have to take it too the car wash and re-wash the bottom of the engine with high pressure soap to get it all off or it drips oil for a week on my garage floor. Yes they fill to the top mark on the dip stick and it stays there for the 3750 miles I drive between changes (never uses any oil).
 
If your dealer takes a short cut like changing the v8 filter from the top, I wonder what other short cuts they take?

You can't see the filter to check for leaks if you don't do it from the bottom. It is also worth looking around while you do the oil change and see areas under the skid plate that you can not otherwise see.:bash:

But if you dealer is doing the oil change special on your 4Runner, the lot boy can't be expected to do everything. After he finishes with your 4Runner, he might have a car to wash.

If changing the oil from the top is ok, what's the next step....just skip the oil filter all together, after all they all look the same, anyhow. And it's a new car after all, the oil looks clean, doesn't it? Next thing you know, they will skip reading the oil fill cap that reads 5w-30 and put something else in. What's the big deal. There's expenses to be saved. How 'bout green coolant in place of the correct red coolant. No big deal. They know better, ask them. Have them explain the silicate and phosphate levels required by Toyota and the difference between the green and the red......
 
Larry said:
If your dealer takes a short cut like changing the v8 filter from the top, I wonder what other short cuts they take?

You can't see the filter to check for leaks if you don't do it from the bottom. It is also worth looking around while you do the oil change and see areas under the skid plate that you can not otherwise see.:bash:

But if you dealer is doing the oil change special on your 4Runner, the lot boy can't be expected to do everything. After he finishes with your 4Runner, he might have a car to wash.

If changing the oil from the top is ok, what's the next step....just skip the oil filter all together, after all they all look the same, anyhow. And it's a new car after all, the oil looks clean, doesn't it? Next thing you know, they will skip reading the oil fill cap that reads 5w-30 and put something else in. What's the big deal. There's expenses to be saved. How 'bout green coolant in place of the correct red coolant. No big deal. They know better, ask them. Have them explain the silicate and phosphate levels required by Toyota and the difference between the green and the red......

I agree you got to watch them, I always mark the filter and then check it after the change to make sure they changed it. They use the same 5w30 Castrol GTX out of barrels for all the Lexus and Toyotas, I check the oil level before I drive off and then I go to a car wash and wash it off to check for leaks. I then check if for the next few days to confirm, plus I always check the filter for tightness. Plus I know that they don't ever lube all of the zerts on the driveline. You right based on all of my BS and worry I might as well take it to my neighbors garage next time and have him do it right, while I stand and watch since I know I will then get everything done correctly and greased right. I always had him do my Landcruiser when I did not want to crawl under it myself. Plus it is time to switch to synthetic Mobil 1 and go for the 5K mile OCI. It may cost me more but I know I will feel better, plus my buddy will give me a reciept for the Oil change to cover me on the warranty BS. Plus the next service I want to change the front and rear diff's again and the transfercase for the first time and use a good synthetic. What synthetic do you recommend for the diff's and transfercase?
 
Pitbull, I use Red Line in my 4Runner. I changed the transmission myself, along with the rear end (mine's 2x4). Even if you don't want to use Red Line for the engine, it's worth it for the transmission, if you have a dip stick, and the rear end.

I was going to use Mobil 1, but stuck with Red Line, instead. I've been using Red Line for a long time for a lot of reasons. The only down side is that it costs $7.80 a quart, vs $4 and something for Mobil 1.
 
Larry said:
Pitbull, I use Red Line in my 4Runner. I changed the transmission myself, along with the rear end (mine's 2x4). Even if you don't want to use Red Line for the engine, it's worth it for the transmission, if you have a dip stick, and the rear end.

I was going to use Mobil 1, but stuck with Red Line, instead. I've been using Red Line for a long time for a lot of reasons. The only down side is that it costs $7.80 a quart, vs $4 and something for Mobil 1.

I never had to jack my FZJ80 up to change the oil or even do the drivetrain grease and the diff's or the transfercase. Can you change the oil/filter and do the diff's, transfercase and grease the drivetrain on the 4runner without jacking it up?
 
You can do the diff's without jacking it up and look under and see if you can fit under to do the transmission. I just bought a couple of plastic ramps and drive onto them for oil changes. It's quick and safe.
 
LARRY - Do you have a procedure for changing the tranny fluid in the 4R since it doesn't have dip stick tube to draw the fluid out of or fill it with?
 
Pitbull said:
I agree you got to watch them, I always mark the filter and then check it after the change to make sure they changed it. They use the same 5w30 Castrol GTX out of barrels for all the Lexus and Toyotas, I check the oil level before I drive off and then I go to a car wash and wash it off to check for leaks. I then check if for the next few days to confirm, plus I always check the filter for tightness. Plus I know that they don't ever lube all of the zerts on the driveline. You right based on all of my BS and worry I might as well take it to my neighbors garage next time and have him do it right, while I stand and watch since I know I will then get everything done correctly and greased right. I always had him do my Landcruiser when I did not want to crawl under it myself. Plus it is time to switch to synthetic Mobil 1 and go for the 5K mile OCI. It may cost me more but I know I will feel better, plus my buddy will give me a reciept for the Oil change to cover me on the warranty BS. Plus the next service I want to change the front and rear diff's again and the transfercase for the first time and use a good synthetic. What synthetic do you recommend for the diff's and transfercase?


Of course you know what I am going to recommend right???

Amsoil!!!

actually I would recommend any syn gear lube


You know I will hook you with the discount if you want it!

Jake
 
00328, I don't know about the newer models, mine has a dipstick, but there must be a way. I'd ask the dealer how he does it and check with a transmission shop. I'd also be careful about letting someone do it with one of those pressure machines. Also those newer models use a different transmission fluid, you may have to buy it from Toyota. Someone out there knows.....
 
Larry said:
00328, I don't know about the newer models, mine has a dipstick, but there must be a way. I'd ask the dealer how he does it and check with a transmission shop. I'd also be careful about letting someone do it with one of those pressure machines. Also those newer models use a different transmission fluid, you may have to buy it from Toyota. Someone out there knows.....


I have a V8 and they don't have tranny dip sticks, so I think the only way it can be done is by pressure. I'm always a little leary of these "lifetime" fluids. It kind of pisses me off a little that they take that option away from people.
 
00328 said:
I have a V8 and they don't have tranny dip sticks, so I think the only way it can be done is by pressure. I'm always a little leary of these "lifetime" fluids. It kind of pisses me off a little that they take that option away from people.

Mines a 2004 V8, even though they don't have a dipstick they can still be serviced (there is a plug where the dipstick normally goes you get to it from the bottom but you have to use ONLY WSATF or you will ruin the transmission (nothing else will work). I plan on having mine serviced at 50K miles if I determine at that point I will be keeping it passed 80K miles. If not I will let it ride until I trade at 80K. I will do the diff's and transfercase at 30K and let it ride until I trade, if I end up keeping it I will do them again at 90K with synthetic.
 

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