115V AC power outlet
- Thread starter gregtay
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rando
Senior Member
That's beyond the silly factor at that price. Just buy your own Inverter and be happy. For $50-$100 you can one with a much higher power rating than the built-in. You can then move it to the front or rear of the truck or even hook it up directly to the battery for outside operation, as needed. Try that with the built-in! 
oh well.
rando
Senior Member
And if you really want to keep the factory look, you can always just wire up your own inverter in the factory location. The red arrows indicate the factory wire connector and the bolt locations.
Besides an inverter, there is plenty of space here for amps, speakers, CarPC, ....
Besides an inverter, there is plenty of space here for amps, speakers, CarPC, ....
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rando
Senior Member
OK, but it's not a quick procedure and it's probably a little different if you have the double decker or 10 speaker system or 3rd row seats, mine is just the standard 2 row cargo with 6 speakers.
1. Remove your cargo mat.
2. Remove the plastic trim piece that covers the floor, at the back of the truck. It's 4 or 5 screws and then it's snapped on (real tight). I taped the head of a flat screwdriver and used that to pry it up. BE CAREFUL!
3. Remove the bridge between the 2nd row seats and cargo area. IIRC, it's just the two bolts holding down the cargo hooks.
4. Remove anything else that appears to be holding down the floor board. I don't remember if there is anything other than 1-3 above.
4. Slide out the cargo floor board (more carpet really). It comes out and goes back in easily.
5. Remove the upper left cargo net post (it's actually a clip). This is a little tricky at first. The very tip of that piece is actually a thin cap. Pull hard just on the very outer edge and it will pop up and release the clips inside. The whole thing then easily comes out.
6. Remove the cover of the 2nd row left passenger seat belt (where it attaches to the body). It just pops off....REALLY
7. Remove the bolt (the one revealed by removing the cover)holding the 2nd row left passenger seat belt to the body
8. Remove the screws/bolts holding the lower left interior panel in place. There are 2 on the floor, 1 in the box, 1 inside the cargo hook, and maybe a few others I don't recall. Look for them ALL. DON'T try to remove the box or cargo hook, just the screws. YOU CANNOT remove them from the outside.
9. Remove (or partially remove) the 2nd row left passenger door modling. You just need to lift up the part that's adjacent to the interior panel. The panel actually has clips that fit UNDERNEATH the molding. Don't worry, the molding is not glued, though it does feel like it is, at first. DON'T REMOVE the whole thing, just the little bit you need. That way it will be easy to get lined up correctly again.
10. Remove the 2nd row left passenger door sill. It just pops up.
11. OK, now there are about 5 or 6 clips holding the interior piece in place. I started prying them up from the back to the front. Once you get them all, the piece just lifts out.
12. Good luck and don't scream at me if you break something!
1. Remove your cargo mat.
2. Remove the plastic trim piece that covers the floor, at the back of the truck. It's 4 or 5 screws and then it's snapped on (real tight). I taped the head of a flat screwdriver and used that to pry it up. BE CAREFUL!
3. Remove the bridge between the 2nd row seats and cargo area. IIRC, it's just the two bolts holding down the cargo hooks.
4. Remove anything else that appears to be holding down the floor board. I don't remember if there is anything other than 1-3 above.
4. Slide out the cargo floor board (more carpet really). It comes out and goes back in easily.
5. Remove the upper left cargo net post (it's actually a clip). This is a little tricky at first. The very tip of that piece is actually a thin cap. Pull hard just on the very outer edge and it will pop up and release the clips inside. The whole thing then easily comes out.
6. Remove the cover of the 2nd row left passenger seat belt (where it attaches to the body). It just pops off....REALLY
7. Remove the bolt (the one revealed by removing the cover)holding the 2nd row left passenger seat belt to the body
8. Remove the screws/bolts holding the lower left interior panel in place. There are 2 on the floor, 1 in the box, 1 inside the cargo hook, and maybe a few others I don't recall. Look for them ALL. DON'T try to remove the box or cargo hook, just the screws. YOU CANNOT remove them from the outside.
9. Remove (or partially remove) the 2nd row left passenger door modling. You just need to lift up the part that's adjacent to the interior panel. The panel actually has clips that fit UNDERNEATH the molding. Don't worry, the molding is not glued, though it does feel like it is, at first. DON'T REMOVE the whole thing, just the little bit you need. That way it will be easy to get lined up correctly again.
10. Remove the 2nd row left passenger door sill. It just pops up.
11. OK, now there are about 5 or 6 clips holding the interior piece in place. I started prying them up from the back to the front. Once you get them all, the piece just lifts out.
12. Good luck and don't scream at me if you break something!
Last edited:
Scout Av8er
New member
rando
what type of after market power inverter would fit in that location? Sorry to be asking, but I'm still in Afghanistan and making plans to upgrade my 04 when I return shortly.
Thanx
what type of after market power inverter would fit in that location? Sorry to be asking, but I'm still in Afghanistan and making plans to upgrade my 04 when I return shortly.
Thanx
rando
Senior Member
The opening is fairly large, you should be able to fit almost anything in there though you'll almost certainly need to make a custom bracket and/or some other mechanism to mount it. It really doesn't make sense to put a high power inverter in there if you plan to use the factory wiring. It's only a 15Amp circuit so assuming your inverter is 100% efficient you cannot go higher than 180W. I think most inverters are closer to 50%-60% efficient and thus 100W is really the practical limit. Ideally you'd find an inverter that is around 100W or less and has overload protection so that it shuts off without popping the 15A fuse on the input side.
The next biggest problem with going aftermarket is moisture and heat. Most of the cheap inverters you can find are designed to be operated in doors and in a dry enviroment. I know my Coleman explicitly says not to leave it inside a car. These units are not sealed so condensation is a real issue. You wouldn't want the AC side of that thing shorting out to the car body. That could give you an unpleasant ZAP. On the flip side, if you try to seal them up, then they will almost certainly overheat. Maybe these issues are something the factory inverter overcomes. If so, that might justify it's very very high selling price.
For now, I'm holding off on the mounted inverter idea. I know others have done this ( in other types of vehicles) and I've never heard of anyone having a problem. Still, it pays to be safe.
Just my 2 cents.
The next biggest problem with going aftermarket is moisture and heat. Most of the cheap inverters you can find are designed to be operated in doors and in a dry enviroment. I know my Coleman explicitly says not to leave it inside a car. These units are not sealed so condensation is a real issue. You wouldn't want the AC side of that thing shorting out to the car body. That could give you an unpleasant ZAP. On the flip side, if you try to seal them up, then they will almost certainly overheat. Maybe these issues are something the factory inverter overcomes. If so, that might justify it's very very high selling price.
For now, I'm holding off on the mounted inverter idea. I know others have done this ( in other types of vehicles) and I've never heard of anyone having a problem. Still, it pays to be safe.
Just my 2 cents.
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Rando,
After doing a search for "Inverter" I found this posting. I recently traded my 03 Sport for an 06 Sport. The 03 had the 115V AC outlet, my new 06 does not. I want to add a factory inverter (if I can find one cheap enough). My question is regarding the wiring harness. Are the wiring harnesses prewired for the inverter and all of the components (inverter, switch on dash, and outlet in center console)?
Thanks!!!
Greg
After doing a search for "Inverter" I found this posting. I recently traded my 03 Sport for an 06 Sport. The 03 had the 115V AC outlet, my new 06 does not. I want to add a factory inverter (if I can find one cheap enough). My question is regarding the wiring harness. Are the wiring harnesses prewired for the inverter and all of the components (inverter, switch on dash, and outlet in center console)?
Thanks!!!
Greg
T4RUSAF
New member
I spent more than $100. The inverter was 150 and the swith was 30. I already had the center console piece from a previous project.
I ended up doing this mainly because the opportunity presented itself. I looked on ebay and the inverter's are never there. So when there was a wrecked 4runner in town I went and checked it out. The inverter itself is about 1400 from the dealer (ouch!).
Yea I understand that it isn't as good as a 50 aftermarket one. But I dont plug in anything crazy into it. A laptop or camera charger is really the extent of it. Worse case scenario, I'd just plug it into an aftermarket one that I would've brought along. But, with every mod I do to the 4runner I like to check OEM stuff first. If its available, I'll look into that avenue first before I look aftermarket. I had this in my previous 4runner and although I didn't use all the time I loved the feature.
I ended up doing this mainly because the opportunity presented itself. I looked on ebay and the inverter's are never there. So when there was a wrecked 4runner in town I went and checked it out. The inverter itself is about 1400 from the dealer (ouch!).
Yea I understand that it isn't as good as a 50 aftermarket one. But I dont plug in anything crazy into it. A laptop or camera charger is really the extent of it. Worse case scenario, I'd just plug it into an aftermarket one that I would've brought along. But, with every mod I do to the 4runner I like to check OEM stuff first. If its available, I'll look into that avenue first before I look aftermarket. I had this in my previous 4runner and although I didn't use all the time I loved the feature.
T4RUSAF
New member
sorry but getting a picture of the inverter installed wouldn't be practical because it tucked away in the rear quarter panel. But just look at the picture with the arrows on the first page. That's where its installed (again because it is an oem piece). Everything plugged in with no problems
