12volt outlet issue/ Radflo Suspension Kit Install Help

[nytefog]

Hi,

Both the front and rear 12 volt outlet are not operational. A while back I plugged in a splitter on the front center console outlet and bang they stopped working. I check the fuses and am not really sure what else could be causing the issue because its not just the one outlet that not working. I don't have a wiring diagram so I'm not sure how the wire is routed and what type of relays and where they are located, If someone has a diagram or had run into the same issue I would be mighty grateful to get these two outlet working. I can't charge my phone, gps or ipod at the least. I haven't checked to see if the 120V inverter is working.

I have a full Radflo suspension kit ready for install I hope. I'm just making sure I have everything I need to complete the install. I have upper control arms, diff drop kit. front coil overs with 600lbs springs, rear springs and long travel shocks. I already installed a ARB and Warn 9.5 winch installed on a single sear platinum battery that is a relabeled Odyssey battery. I'm looking to get another battery installed but need to find a battery tray kit to get things moving because I don't trust one battery with the winch and future Rigid light bars. I think I might get the TJM battery management kit but I just need the battery tray that will fit with out a great about of fabrication. Any dual battery setup for 4th gen T4R would be greatly appreciated.

I am in search of a pre-owned Gobi Stealth roof rack which I believe that the price has increased. If anyone knows of someone looking to get rid of one I've very interested as long as it isn't beat to shit of course.

Also, I need to know what sliders everyone is using or might suggest. I like Slee's 5th gen T4R sliders but I see no mention of 4th gen sliders. I emailed them but haven't gotten a response yet. I want a set I can jack my vehicle with using a highlift jack. I don't want a set up like the running boards like the ones that came with my T4R. Hopefully I can sell my limited running boards to help offset some of my costs. I've been collecting all the Radflo suspension products and accessories for sometime now so I can do It right. I don't want to do this half ass.

If anyone can think of anything else I might need for the Radflo installation I would greatly appreciate it. I got the rear Radflo coils but I also have a pair of OME 895, I think that's the model, because Radflo's coils only give a 2" lift, which seemed a bit low.

I need to know if I need a brake like extensions, or should have them, and if I do or even if I should just to be safe which ones should I buy? I know that someone made brackets to prevent from having to change brake lines which would be nice.

DOES EVERYONE AGREE I SHOULD REMOVE THE FRONT OR THE REAR OR BOTH SWAY BARS AFTER I HAVE THE SUSPENSION KIT INSTALLED.

Overland Warehouse was the outfit who made the brake line bracket and I also believe that they had their own rear coil springs vs. the one that Radflo provides not but I'm not exactly sure. I know that the Radflo kits uses the overlander warehouse shock valving. I'm just trying to install the correct springs that will give me the max lift without causing problems with my front cv joints when I adjust the front coil overs.

Also, ANY TIPS AND TRICKS WHEN installing the new front upper control arms?

AM I MISSING ANYTHING? I Really really appreciate any knowledge you can pass my way. I'm hoping to get this installed next weekend so I can go down to the NJ Pine Barrons (Wharton State Forrest) to test out these new springs and shocks.

Thanks for ANY positive input,

-Patrick

P.S: sorry about the multiple issues in one thread! I just got carried away. I've been sitting on these springs and shocks for months waiting for it to warm up so installation will be more comfortable.

 

[ebg18t]

Battery tray = Dirty parts. They also have a full kit if you want all the wiring. This is the kit I have. I am just going to get a digital battery monitor fron eBay and add it after.

Front setup - with winch and bumper I would have opted fir the 650# springs. You will need to crank the 600's a tad higher to get the height you need. I am running 650# and they ride great. I would skip the diff drop kit.

Rear setup - the 895's are stiffer than the Radflo springs. So if you are going to be carrying a load I woud opt for them over the Radflo. If not pop in the Radflo springs. I have the 895 rears and they handle light-moderate loads great.

Brake line - Metal tech sells them

Sliders - not sure, there is a armour sticky with links. I am still shopping for them right now, so I haven't decided either

Sway bars - I still have mine. But considering pulling them for better articulation. Some say yes, some say no..

 

[HokieRunner]

ebg18t covered a good bit but do use the search function. ALL of this has been covered and with a little work you'll find your answers.

That being said:

Dual Batt: There are a ton of dual battery options and trays. Dirty parts is a good suggestion for a drop in, no thinking required kind of install. There are also kits like the IBS which has a battery monitor and T-max makes one as well. Basically an IBS knockoff.

Sliders: there are a ton of options. look in the armor thread.

Roof rack - put up a wanted post in the 'classifieds'.

Radflo: if you have all the suspension parts and the UCA you'll be fine. I wouldn't bother with the diff drop. It's not necessary if you aren't going over 3" and given the V8, 600lb coils, bumper, dual battery and winch...you're gonna really have to crank down your coilovers to get to that. 650 or 700 lb coils may have been a better choice given all the added weight.

Rear sway bar can be worked around with extended end links...search. Front sway bar - personal taste. Some ppl leave on for road driving, take off for off road or just permanently remove. Obviously you'll gain more flex offroad with it removed. Just experiment and figure out what you're comfortable with.

OW, I believe had a couple versions of the rear coils. The current Radflo kits come w/ the OW 220# coils. As you said, about 2" lift.

I'd go with brake line relocation bracket or longer brake lines if you're doing the extended travel. Once again....when installed, gently test the range of the rear suspension to assess your needs. Better to be safe and get extended lines or relo bracket though. If the OW guys don't have any left it's fairly easy to replicate.

When doing the UCA install, remove the battery. Makes getting the driver side bolt out much easier. And be mindful of the ABS wire running up the spindle and over the UCA. A good number of folks have stressed/broken it.

Good luck. Post up some pics when you get it done! Oh, and for the top shock tower bolts...get a ratcheting wrench if you don't have one. It'll save some time and frustration!