Howitzer
New member
Hey everyone!
I'm having an issue with replacing the 2 rear brake lines (going from Y/T junction in pass wheel well to LSPV), perhaps some of you may have already experienced this headache and might be able to expedite my mission.
a little foreground:
I'm rebuilding my 87 4runner, 22re sr5. It was the first vehicle I've ever owned, has been through hell and back (imagine what a lead footed 15 year old living in the country might do), and just finally temporarily retired last year, due to 4th gear and pilot (guessing) bearing going kaput. I have a replacement transmission off of kijiji, and around $900 in new parts to be installed.
Now, to the fun part..
I need to replace the 2 brake lines going from Y/T junction in pass wheel well to LSPV. I have the correct pre bent lines from a local yota dealer, but trying to install them, I ran into problems. I replaced the same 2 lines on my 89 pickup last summer, with relatively little issues. to remove the lines, I had to drill a hole in the floor behind the passenger seat, so get at a bolt on top of a crossmember (I could barely touch the bolt with my finger, due to the low clearance between the floor, let alone try to get a wrench on it) holding the 3 line (1 gas, 2 brake) rubber clamp down. All the other ones were easily accessed, minus that one. When scoping out how to install the new ones, more particularily how I would fit them in place, I realized that the lines go on the outside of the top of the tortion bar, leaving me with not enough room between the floor and the top of the T bar bolt to fit the lines in. My current game plan, is to loosen the jamnut on the Tbar bolt, then loosen the bolt (as to lower the top of it) enough for me to slide the brake lines over, align them, then secure them with the rubber clamps. I realize I need an alignment after loosening/retightening it, but with all brand new steering parts, an alignment is warranted anyways. Could loosening the Tbar bolt off that much wreck anything? Option two involves lifting the body off the frame, which would render the brake line install a cinch, but I really don't want to risk taking the body off the frame in case it twists as soon as the frame is off due to past collisions/abuse, or having a bdy bolt strip out or snap or who knows what else. I can't find any shop manuals, AllData is too new and doesnt contain replacement procedures, toyota dealers have very little information on the older trucks, and the haynes manual doesn't go that in-depth to replace a line. That leaves me scratching my behind at square 1.5, and where hopefully somebody can help me! Ps, if anyone lives in Calgary and feels gracious enough to help out, I'm sure we can work something out to pay for your time! Has anybody ran into this issue before? Ideas?
Also, with the LSPV, what would the correct bleed sequence be for the whole truck once I get all the lines installed?
Thank you very much for your time, and I look forward to hearing from you!
Jake :ak472:
I'm having an issue with replacing the 2 rear brake lines (going from Y/T junction in pass wheel well to LSPV), perhaps some of you may have already experienced this headache and might be able to expedite my mission.
a little foreground:
I'm rebuilding my 87 4runner, 22re sr5. It was the first vehicle I've ever owned, has been through hell and back (imagine what a lead footed 15 year old living in the country might do), and just finally temporarily retired last year, due to 4th gear and pilot (guessing) bearing going kaput. I have a replacement transmission off of kijiji, and around $900 in new parts to be installed.
Now, to the fun part..
I need to replace the 2 brake lines going from Y/T junction in pass wheel well to LSPV. I have the correct pre bent lines from a local yota dealer, but trying to install them, I ran into problems. I replaced the same 2 lines on my 89 pickup last summer, with relatively little issues. to remove the lines, I had to drill a hole in the floor behind the passenger seat, so get at a bolt on top of a crossmember (I could barely touch the bolt with my finger, due to the low clearance between the floor, let alone try to get a wrench on it) holding the 3 line (1 gas, 2 brake) rubber clamp down. All the other ones were easily accessed, minus that one. When scoping out how to install the new ones, more particularily how I would fit them in place, I realized that the lines go on the outside of the top of the tortion bar, leaving me with not enough room between the floor and the top of the T bar bolt to fit the lines in. My current game plan, is to loosen the jamnut on the Tbar bolt, then loosen the bolt (as to lower the top of it) enough for me to slide the brake lines over, align them, then secure them with the rubber clamps. I realize I need an alignment after loosening/retightening it, but with all brand new steering parts, an alignment is warranted anyways. Could loosening the Tbar bolt off that much wreck anything? Option two involves lifting the body off the frame, which would render the brake line install a cinch, but I really don't want to risk taking the body off the frame in case it twists as soon as the frame is off due to past collisions/abuse, or having a bdy bolt strip out or snap or who knows what else. I can't find any shop manuals, AllData is too new and doesnt contain replacement procedures, toyota dealers have very little information on the older trucks, and the haynes manual doesn't go that in-depth to replace a line. That leaves me scratching my behind at square 1.5, and where hopefully somebody can help me! Ps, if anyone lives in Calgary and feels gracious enough to help out, I'm sure we can work something out to pay for your time! Has anybody ran into this issue before? Ideas?
Also, with the LSPV, what would the correct bleed sequence be for the whole truck once I get all the lines installed?
Thank you very much for your time, and I look forward to hearing from you!
Jake :ak472:
