199 Tundra brake vibrations

[Silver Supra]

I did the 199 Tundra brake upgrade and already have warped rotors again. Keep in mind I did not use OEM rotors but I’m still surprised that they are already warped after a few thousand miles.

If I go with OEM rotors will I have the same problem?

Thanks!

 

[JayRolla]

I did the 199 Tundra brake upgrade and already have warped rotors again. Keep in mind I did not use OEM rotors but I’m still surprised that they are already warped after a few thousand miles.

If I go with OEM rotors will I have the same problem?

Thanks!

Did you bed in the pads? Did you have a very long decent say coming down a mountain pass and you rode your brakes that heated them up? Then you stopped and pad material fused with rotor causing vibrations.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Hard to say. Where did you get them? Chinese made rotors these days can sometimes be crap, like throwing darts blindfolded. One can get a good set, otherwise nothing but crap.

 

[Jungoes]

I have the 231's with cross drilled and slotted rotors, did the bed in properly,
new LBJ, no play in upper bj, bushings are fine, new shocks
and I still get a slight vibration ONLY when going downhill.
did a run-out measurement on both rotors which have 0.001 to 0.002" runout.
zero pad imprints on the rotors.

I have to climb 2 hills and go down every day .. so I just learned to brake differently and it doesn't bother me..on flat surfaces. the braking is fantastic..

measure your run out, rotate the rotors by 180 deg and re- measure, if its more than 0.003-5" you will feel the vibration regardless of how much bedding you do. You can shim the rotors with a spacer that corrects 0.002-0.006 but the new rotors are cheaper than the shims.

 

[Silver Supra]

Yep, I bed them in correctly and everything was fine for a few years and maybe 6-7k miles but I'm starting to get the steering wheel shake when braking. I think I got the rotors from Napa but I can't remember.

I may get them turned and just go with it until it's time to replace them and try some OEM rotors.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

The Power Stops on the Puppy Hauler have a odd vibration lightly braking.

It almost feels like the slots in the rotors are causing it. If I brake harder the vibes stop. Sometimes the vibes are not there at all. It does seem to happen more often on hot days.


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[Drcoffee]

Check the tie rod ends and bearings as well. If the pulsing started right away, could be another cause. But let me say this. Even on new out of the box rotors, I will have a shop true them up. After having them done, the shop said they were warped from the factory. They dont take off much more than necessary to true them, but its good practice to make sure they are perfect before the install.

I do it because I was tired of doing the job twice.

 

[jgue467]

Good rotors/pads = Zero vibrations under all conditions (all else equal).

I replaced my last rotors with powerstop street directional rotors (angled vanes) to better handle the heat buildup on downhill runs, they are the sweetest, smoothest rotors I've ever had, outstanding performance so far. :cowboy:

 

[Krommeweg]

Yep, I bed them in correctly and everything was fine for a few years and maybe 6-7k miles but I'm starting to get the steering wheel shake when braking. I think I got the rotors from Napa but I can't remember.

I may get them turned and just go with it until it's time to replace them and try some OEM rotors.

I got a garbage set of 199m rotors from Napa as well, I did not do the bedding procedure and they were too far warped to be lathed down, 6 months later.

It is important to check all your front end bushings, and check the torque on the mounting bolts for the calipers, to really get rid of that vibration. I did an alignment too, after new steering rack bushings.

Have since gone with StopTech, bedded them in, and now I'm loving life. Even if you can't afford to go OEM (like me) you can still get quality parts. ...maybe just not from NAPA.

 

[2ndhandyotaman]

FWIW, I had to get new front rotors/pads for my '99 to pass the state safety inspection last year when I was registering the vehicle. I used Crapa "premium" rotors and pads. I did a proper bed-in right after installation. Those parts lasted a whole month before the front end would shake like a dog drying off.

I took the junk back, had them warranty me a full refund and purchased brand name rotors and pads from a commercial parts store in town. I got Raybestos rotors and Akebono pads and did a bed-in routine. They lasted until about 2 weeks ago when I had to do a emergency/panic stop. The truck is back to shaking like crazy again. Last night out of frustration I intentionally dragged the brakes while going interstate speeds until I had brake fade then drifted over to the shoulder and let everything cool down.

Once I got moving again, 90 % of the brake wobbles were gone. I have rebuilt WE calipers waiting for the next brake job. After reading all of these stories about the shake coming back, I'm no longer sure if it's even worth trying the upgrade now.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Yep, I bed them in correctly and everything was fine for a few years and maybe 6-7k miles but I'm starting to get the steering wheel shake when braking. I think I got the rotors from Napa but I can't remember.

I may get them turned and just go with it until it's time to replace them and try some OEM rotors.

Sometimes it's not actually the rotors being warped, but like someone else said uneven distribution of pad material. I road-tuned my 4Runner and stupidly came to a complete stop, which left a pad imprint on my rotors (100 MPH to 0). I thought they were warped but when I went to bed the brakes again after a rear drum resurfacing, I noticed it also took away the pad imprint and the wobbly brakes up front as well.

Worth a shot since it only takes 5 minutes to bed the brakes.

 

[nevada]

Sometimes it's not actually the rotors being warped, but like someone else said uneven distribution of pad material. I road-tuned my 4Runner and stupidly came to a complete stop, which left a pad imprint on my rotors (100 MPH to 0). I thought they were warped but when I went to bed the brakes again after a rear drum resurfacing, I noticed it also took away the pad imprint and the wobbly brakes up front as well.

Worth a shot since it only takes 5 minutes to bed the brakes.

to do it correctly, it takes much longer than 5 minutes. even longer if they have already started to pulsate. id have to search for the article again, but its actually quite a process. traffic makes it harder. but, it could definitely be worth doing, before replacing parts.

 

[absalom]

Do this.

 

[gamefreakgc]

to do it correctly, it takes much longer than 5 minutes. even longer if they have already started to pulsate. id have to search for the article again, but its actually quite a process. traffic makes it harder. but, it could definitely be worth doing, before replacing parts.

I live where there's no real good open roads... so I have to find a safe stretch of neighborhood and just do some 40 to 15ish stops in succession. It made such an improvement that the wobble is pretty much completely gone.

 

[Silver Supra]

Thanks for the recommendations everyone!