1996 3.4L A/C not engaging at idle

I had a problem like This my ac was done so I got a kit from eBay that had the ac compressor dryer a expansion valve. The guy that installed and charged my system did not change the expansion valve said he never seen one bad. I was like ok he been good to me so hey I will go with it. The ac would work going down the road for a bit the would stop I took and put some Gage's on it and it was showing 0 psi when I would go out in the am and fire it up it would work and had the right psi called my guy and told him hey the expansion valve needs to be changed. I am think you need to check it and make sure
You have some pressure in that thing.
 
Okay, Nevada's comment about a knob behind the glovebox kept throwing me off because there is no adjustment shown in the wiring diagram. An older co-worker mentioned to me that there is a manual adjustment for the expansion valve on older 4Runners which is what I assume Nevada is talking about. Which got me thinking along the lines of pressure, so I leaning on a mechanical issue with the compressor and/or expansion valve.

Nevada, could you post your trucks model year & trim and a picture of where this knob is? Our FSM doesn't show anything like that for the 3rd gens.

As for your repair order Ryan, that is a weird list of parts, I can understand why they would replace the fan clutch, believing that a lack of proper airflow over the condenser could cause a lack of proper cooling at low engine speeds. But when you brought it back for the same problem they should have started looking at the compressor clutch, unit, and possibly expansion valve.

I think HarleyDoc may be onto something there with the expansion valve, they rarely go bad, but it could cause some issues if coupled with a failing compressor with inconsistent pressure. I honestly think the fix for your car is a remanufactuered/new OEM compressor w/ clutch, expansion valve, and if you can afford it I would go ahead an replace the reciever/dryer. (was this ever replaced when you converted to R134A? Most shops don't do it, but technically you're supposed to since the refrigerent and oil tends to pool in there.
 
Check out eBay I got my kit for 225 shipped plus my guy only him me up for 75 buck to do the job and everyone ***** that my ac is to cold lol...
 
The best way I have found to see if it is the expansion valve is when it stop work check the psi it should be zero or have vac on it after it sits a bit the freon will leave out and start working again than the psi will be in ranger you can just use a empty freon can with a gage to check that part but here is the kit I ordered look like the price has went up some.

eBay number 110942602203
 
I can't really think of anything else it would be it could but maybe the compressor is worn out or it is low but if the dealer is just throwing parts at it then I would not be paying for that thing that is not Fixing it. Sorry from the run on words hard to type from a phone.
 
I can't really think of anything else it would be it could but maybe the compressor is worn out or it is low but if the dealer is just throwing parts at it then I would not be paying for that thing that is not Fixing it. Sorry from the run on words hard to type from a phone.

Thus , we need to find out if the clutch is working while at idle. The question is- Is it?
 
I am still trying to wrap my head round why they just did the clutch vs just replacing the compressor load wise the clutch swap is more if you ask me. I think it is low on gas or with maybe im return the expansion valve is ba and giving bad reading as if It was at the right range. I really think he need to put it on the gage and see what the psi is doing.
 
Thats why I backed out. Without this information there can be no diagnosis. 2 pages in and we still don't know.

Ok, I finally got her back from the dealership and warmed her up to get her to warm idle. I've tried both with the ac on and off to see if anything is engaging or spinning on the front of the compressor, but honestly I don't see anything that could possibly spin. It's kind of hard to get at both from above the engine and below. I admit I know pretty much only the basics of AC, I've searched for examples of videos on youtube for 3rd gen runners, but haven't found a good example to look at.
 
Finally resolved

I just wanted to update everyone that there was finally a resolution and that the resolution has absolutely no relation to the AC system itself!

Idle (when in Drive with foot on brake) dropped again not long after I got it back from the dealership, and did stall once at a red light. And the CEL finally lit up and spit out code P0133 for front O2 sensor. I ordered it on toyotapartsales.com for $122 and installed it myself in about 15 minutes.

Idle is normal, and the AC comes on like it should when @ idle!

Thanks to everyone for their tips and suggestions!!!
 

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