1997 3rd 4Runner: exhaust gasses in coolant

coues7

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1997 3rd gen. 250k on the clock. Does not burn oil. Started getting gurgling sound in heater core. Exhaust is a little more steamy looking than normal. Noticed low antifreeze in radiator. My untra gauge has never shown high temps. Parked one day after coming home for lunch, and when I fired to back up scan gauge showed 210*f.

Assuming cracked head between valves. Should I rehead it or new motor it? I’m in southern Wyoming. Don’t trust any shops here. Likely closest good shop is in Colorado. Any recommendations on a shop? Recommendations on a motor? Recommendations on heads?
 
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1997 3rd gen. 250k on the clock. Does not burn oil. Started getting gurgling sound in heater core. Exhaust is a little more steamy looking than normal. Noticed low antifreeze in radiator. My untra gauge has never shown high temps. Parked one day after coming home for lunch, and when I fired to back up scan gauge showed 210*f.

Assuming cracked head between valves. Should I rehead it or new motor it? I’m in southern Wyoming. Don’t trust any shops here. Likely closest good shop is in Colorado. Any recommendations on a shop? Recommendations on a motor? Recommendations on heads?
What makes you say cracked head and not a failed head gasket? Failed head gasket is much more common than a cracked head.
 
I'd say it has to be one of those two things. No codes....yet. I bought an exhaust gas in coolant test kit. Immediately upon startup, it went from blue to yellow. I could see bubbles coming in when I revved the engine. I hope I understood your question correctly.
 
Any recommendations on how to do that? I'd assume checking spark plugs. Any recommendations on who to get heads from?
 
I would do a compression test then a leakdown test on whichever cylinder(s) fail the compression test. If it was me I would remove and inspect the head before making a decision to replace the head or just do the head gasket.
 
I would do a compression test then a leakdown test on whichever cylinder(s) fail the compression test. If it was me I would remove and inspect the head before making a decision to replace the head or just do the head gasket.

Sadly, I don't know that I'm setup to do any of that. It's the middle of winter here in Wyoming so I can't move my vehicle into the garage for 2 months. It'll have to go to a shop.

Anyone know of any good shops in northern colorado.
 
What is the best way to determine whether a new motor is better than just heads?

That's entirely dependent on your situation and how much you value your own time and convenience. Many would definitely scoff at the idea of replacing the whole engine, but others wouldn't hesitate to ditch the car in your situation. For reference you can get brand spanking new 5VZ's from Yota1 that are very pretty, very high quality and ready to drop in but run upwards of $4k, and if I'm not mistaken low mileage crate motors from Japan usually run about half that around $1.5-2k - but I may be speaking out of turn here since you're far more inland than me so shipping may or may not be a pain, and it's been a while since I checked price/availability. Most people with head gasket failures usually end up spending $1-1.5k it seems, if they need a teardown and resurfacing - if I'm not mistaken a pair or new heads runs in a very similar price range and would probably save you some money in labor, but I wouldn't expect much as they still need to disassemble and reassemble them on the block. Keep in mind here I didn't mention any labor cost with replacing the motor, which would surely be up there. So I would juggle those numbers personally and think about works best for you, as I imagine you'll get 5 different answers from 5 different people here. On this site it'll probably be heavily in favor of doing it yourself since labor will be the biggest bill
I do understand the predicament though. I want nothing more to move to Wyoming but any and all industry is so damn scarce it's downright intimidating (aside from coal and oil that is.) I've often wondered how difficult it would be to get spare parts for wheeling or an emergency, or have decent work done to your vehicle, etc. :target:
 
If you’re comfortable driving it to another state to get fixed, maybe you can wait until the spring and do the work yourself. If it was me, the plan would depend on time available. Pretty sure that head gaskets require a motor pull, so that labor time is a wash. Donor engine still requires accessories to be swapped over, but would be overall quicker than waiting on a machine shop to resurface 2 heads.
 
If you’re comfortable driving it to another state to get fixed, maybe you can wait until the spring and do the work yourself. If it was me, the plan would depend on time available. Pretty sure that head gaskets require a motor pull,
Pretty sure that's not true, I can suggest at least one video that shows the procedure.
so that labor time is a wash. Donor engine still requires accessories to be swapped over, but would be overall quicker than waiting on a machine shop to resurface 2 heads.
How long does it take in your area to get 2 heads resurfaced?
 
With that milage I’d want piece of mind. I don’t want to spend the money and time replacing head gaskets. Only to loose the bottom end 50k later.

I’ve done a head swap at 140k on the Limited Puppy Hauler for what I thought was a bad head gasket but ended up being the intake manifold gasket. I had a spare set of heads freshened up.

On my 97 SR5 project I rebuilt the engine. I didn’t keep receipts but I had around 2k into it and I installed the rebuilt heads on the block myself.

If you’re keeping your rig for any length of time, I’d put a fresh engine in it.


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Last night I found a complete 2001 4runner for $2500. The person claims it has a rebuilt motor in it with only 50k miles. The vehicle has a total of 262k on it. I figure I will find someone to pull the motor and put it into mine. That or as suggested I'll wait until Spring and do it myself. Not sure how to verify anything about the 50k miles motor, but open to suggestions. I figure I can get parts off the 2001 and then dump it.
 
Last night I found a complete 2001 4runner for $2500. The person claims it has a rebuilt motor in it with only 50k miles. The vehicle has a total of 262k on it. I figure I will find someone to pull the motor and put it into mine. That or as suggested I'll wait until Spring and do it myself. Not sure how to verify anything about the 50k miles motor, but open to suggestions. I figure I can get parts off the 2001 and then dump it.
Receipts would be the only way to confirm what was done and when. There's a lot of different "versions" of rebuilt. Was it just a head gasket, a full regasket/reseal, pistons/rods/crank, new head/old head, etc.
 
That's entirely dependent on your situation and how much you value your own time and convenience. Many would definitely scoff at the idea of replacing the whole engine, but others wouldn't hesitate to ditch the car in your situation. For reference you can get brand spanking new 5VZ's from Yota1 that are very pretty, very high quality and ready to drop in but run upwards of $4k, and if I'm not mistaken low mileage crate motors from Japan usually run about half that around $1.5-2k - but I may be speaking out of turn here since you're far more inland than me so shipping may or may not be a pain, and it's been a while since I checked price/availability. Most people with head gasket failures usually end up spending $1-1.5k it seems, if they need a teardown and resurfacing - if I'm not mistaken a pair or new heads runs in a very similar price range and would probably save you some money in labor, but I wouldn't expect much as they still need to disassemble and reassemble them on the block. Keep in mind here I didn't mention any labor cost with replacing the motor, which would surely be up there. So I would juggle those numbers personally and think about works best for you, as I imagine you'll get 5 different answers from 5 different people here. On this site it'll probably be heavily in favor of doing it yourself since labor will be the biggest bill
I do understand the predicament though. I want nothing more to move to Wyoming but any and all industry is so damn scarce it's downright intimidating (aside from coal and oil that is.) I've often wondered how difficult it would be to get spare parts for wheeling or an emergency, or have decent work done to your vehicle, etc. :target:


I just relocated from Central WA to Billings MT. You don't know how good we had it there with all the parts floating around. Between both junkyards here I've picked apart all 8 4runners I could find. Next nearest yard is in Missoula that has a 3rd gen in it. 4 hr drive. In WA parts are everywhere and not rusted to shit.

I would R/R the entire engine. Faster and then do Head Gaskets on old motor when its summertime and sell it off.
 
I just relocated from Central WA to Billings MT. You don't know how good we had it there with all the parts floating around. Between both junkyards here I've picked apart all 8 4runners I could find. Next nearest yard is in Missoula that has a 3rd gen in it. 4 hr drive. In WA parts are everywhere and not rusted to shit.

I would R/R the entire engine. Faster and then do Head Gaskets on old motor when its summertime and sell it off.


What is R/R?
 
Sadly, I don't know that I'm setup to do any of that. It's the middle of winter here in Wyoming so I can't move my vehicle into the garage for 2 months. It'll have to go to a shop.

Anyone know of any good shops in northern colorado.

With some research, eBay heads, and Ishino gasket set from Yota1 you could have it done in a weekend. I wouldn't touch the bottom end or swap motor personally. Redid the top end on mine at 185k and leakdown test was over 90% on all cyclinders if I recall correctly. Not to say something couldn't break on the bottom end, but bottom end issues are pretty rare on this motor. I reused my heads which was an adventure in itself with some machine shop issues, so that took a while, but if you go with a reputable builder it should go quickly.
 
I wouldn't even really plan on new heads. It probably has one of the earlier HG designs. IIRC they went through 4 iterations before ending up at a pretty bulletproof MLS design. The earlier composite/partial composite styles will eventually fail with enough heat cycles. The aluminum had and iron blocks expand at different rates as they warm up, which gently scrupbs the HG between them. Enough cycles and it will start leaking.

Since you haven't overheated it yet, just faint signs of a leak, I'd bet the heads are still good. Take both heads off (if one went, the other is likely not far behind), eyeball the cylinder bores while it's apart, put it back together with a new TB/WP kit and new belts/hoses. And while they still sell some off the earlier iterations of the headgaskets (I think) go ahead and get the last style, order one for a 2002 4Runner.
 
Yea I didn't mean they'd be warped but both head gaskets I've done on the 3.0 and 3.4 the heads had noticeable pitting around the water jacket. Guessing from the aluminum oxidizing and getting sucked into suspension in the water running over it before the leak works its way to the outside of the gasket over the years. It's best practice to get heads resurfaced to get a tight seal and extend the lifespan of your work, especially with the MLS gaskets which last longer with a flat surface, but aren't as forgiving. Supposedly it can also be done with a block and sandpaper if you're on a budget, or just skipped if you're less concerned with longevity than the budget. I've always brought mine to a shop but that takes time, and then you have to measure and order shims which takes more time

edit to add you may not need shims either if you don't get the valves done, but well worth doing them also while it's out in my opinion, about the best bang for the buck you can get for a power increase
 
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