I began what I though was going to be an easy starter replacement for my '97 4Runner SR5. After finally removing all the connectors and hardware, I can't remove the starter form the vehicle because all the openings are too small! I removed the front tire, dipstick and the exhaust manifold heat shield and pushed and pulled from every direction and here I am. I give up. How do I get the darn thing out of there?
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1997 4Runner Starter Removal
- Thread starter Maxman
- Start date
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03RoadRunner
New member
Maxman,
Dude...I did this same thing on my 1998 about 6months ago. I had the same problems. My knuckles were all busted up too from trying to get that damn thing outta there. =(
Anyhoo...I ended calling my new insurance company (American Express Roadside Asst.) and I got my $4/month roaside paid for the year. A free $50 tow to the dealer on a flatbed. The dealer ended up replacing it with one I supplied.
Not my greatest moment in automotive history...but damn..I thought it would be easy....NOT!!!
Good Luck,
03RR
Dude...I did this same thing on my 1998 about 6months ago. I had the same problems. My knuckles were all busted up too from trying to get that damn thing outta there. =(
Anyhoo...I ended calling my new insurance company (American Express Roadside Asst.) and I got my $4/month roaside paid for the year. A free $50 tow to the dealer on a flatbed. The dealer ended up replacing it with one I supplied.
Not my greatest moment in automotive history...but damn..I thought it would be easy....NOT!!!
Good Luck,
03RR
today 7/19, i encountered the same dilemma you guys experienced in removing the starter.. had to removed the transmission pan which has the other half of the dip stick attach to it and also one fitting i think is for the steering fluid.. with those two things out i yank the old and put the new one in.. will continue maybe tomorrow to install the starter and of course refill transmission/steering fluid .. i think i need dexron ii for both and gasket for the pan.. if anyone can confirm the one fitting i took off to be really steering fluid, it will be greatly appreciated.. i will go by the dealer to chk with them too.. tia ..
The Answer
I figured out what must be the "official" way to remove the starter. I looked at removing the stuff Madbayan removed, but as he described, I didn't know what fluids would leak out and it looked like there must be a better way.
Here it is: You remove the top half of that dipstick tube (one bolt/ plug the bottom half to keep debris out), the front tire and the protective rubber sheet inside the fender. Remove the brake line that goes from a fitting on the frame to the wheel hub and then unbolt that fitting from the frame (one bolt). You do not have to remove the upper brake line. Let the brake fluid drain completely. Using a piece of string, I wrapped it around the brake line/fitting and pulled it to the left out of the way. The starter is now completely accessible. Bleed the brakes after re-assembly.
As I step back and look at it, the segment of brake line that I removed looks like it was designed to be removed for the sole purpose of getting that starter out!
I figured out what must be the "official" way to remove the starter. I looked at removing the stuff Madbayan removed, but as he described, I didn't know what fluids would leak out and it looked like there must be a better way.
Here it is: You remove the top half of that dipstick tube (one bolt/ plug the bottom half to keep debris out), the front tire and the protective rubber sheet inside the fender. Remove the brake line that goes from a fitting on the frame to the wheel hub and then unbolt that fitting from the frame (one bolt). You do not have to remove the upper brake line. Let the brake fluid drain completely. Using a piece of string, I wrapped it around the brake line/fitting and pulled it to the left out of the way. The starter is now completely accessible. Bleed the brakes after re-assembly.
As I step back and look at it, the segment of brake line that I removed looks like it was designed to be removed for the sole purpose of getting that starter out!
03RoadRunner
New member
Maxman,
Great news...congratulations.
I'll have to remember your steps in about 80,000 miles when I replaced my next starter. =)
Later,
03RR
Great news...congratulations.
I'll have to remember your steps in about 80,000 miles when I replaced my next starter. =)
Later,
03RR
finally got done installing the starter, reinstalling the transmission pan and replenishing the steering fluid and trans oil. i had to go to the dealer to get a gasket for the pan but to my surprise there is no gasket for it but instead they gave me an rtv to use.. this car is actually for my niece which is a 96 4runner limited with 4wd/automatic w/ 124k miles on it..tks..
03RoadRunner
New member
Don_davi,
Actually, if you just replace the contacts (Probably what I should have just done) its really easy...just remove the one end of the starter (towards the front of the car) and you can slide the contacts out and the new ones back in.
I would say..maybe an hour or two...depends on how fast you work it!
Good Luck.
03RR
Actually, if you just replace the contacts (Probably what I should have just done) its really easy...just remove the one end of the starter (towards the front of the car) and you can slide the contacts out and the new ones back in.
I would say..maybe an hour or two...depends on how fast you work it!
Good Luck.
03RR
"I unbolted the starter and all the wires with the tire off. Once everything was done, there are 2 bolts that hold it together. unbolted them, the starter was now in 2 pieces and it will come out past the frame into the wheel well. broke the new in the same place inserted the two pieces rebolted them together and mounted the starter. Hook up the wires. Done 25 minutes. "
I found that posted somewhere.
I have skid plates as well, and also the starter seems out of reach...
Should I take it off from below the truck or from the top? Common sense (if i have any left) tells me from below after looking at it.
I found that posted somewhere.
I have skid plates as well, and also the starter seems out of reach...
Should I take it off from below the truck or from the top? Common sense (if i have any left) tells me from below after looking at it.
YES! I got it done, in 4 hours!!
Actually i didn't have the right tools and I didn't know where the contacts were so it took me longer. I had to go borrow tools, and buy some new ones. I think I could do it again in less then an hour next time. It took me 25 minutes to put everything back together.
By the way, you don't have to break it in 2 to take it out. Initially I took it out in 2 pieces but that can get cumbersome. When I put it back together, I did it by pushing the break line to the right and taking the top part of the dipstick think off. After that, there's enough room for the whole starter assembly to go through.
This is on a 4wd 3.4 auto 1998.
Cheers and thanks for all the help.
Actually i didn't have the right tools and I didn't know where the contacts were so it took me longer. I had to go borrow tools, and buy some new ones. I think I could do it again in less then an hour next time. It took me 25 minutes to put everything back together.
By the way, you don't have to break it in 2 to take it out. Initially I took it out in 2 pieces but that can get cumbersome. When I put it back together, I did it by pushing the break line to the right and taking the top part of the dipstick think off. After that, there's enough room for the whole starter assembly to go through.
This is on a 4wd 3.4 auto 1998.
Cheers and thanks for all the help.
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what a !$%&!
Pulled the starter out of my 1996 4Runner V6, SR5, 4WD.
What a pain in the arse! I had to disassemble the starter in the area before I could manage to push it between the transmission dipstick and the break lines mounted on the frame at that location.
Called the dealer this morning and was able to talk to a tech.
Said to remove the motor mount and loosen the steering bracket
to allow enough room for the unit as a whole to slip out. Going to try that method tonight when re-installing.
Will post full details of what I did to re-install.
Pulled the starter out of my 1996 4Runner V6, SR5, 4WD.
What a pain in the arse! I had to disassemble the starter in the area before I could manage to push it between the transmission dipstick and the break lines mounted on the frame at that location.
Called the dealer this morning and was able to talk to a tech.
Said to remove the motor mount and loosen the steering bracket
to allow enough room for the unit as a whole to slip out. Going to try that method tonight when re-installing.
Will post full details of what I did to re-install.
1996 toyota four runner starter removal key: the dipstick and the brake line
I struggled with removing the starter from the 1996 Toyota Four Runner. All of the other internet posts related to the 1997 Four runner
I struggled with removing the starter from the 1996 Toyota Four Runner. All of the other internet posts related to the 1997 Four runner
- Once you follow the general instructions,YOU MUST remove the transmission dipstick (pulls apart) and remove the two screws that hold the brake lines in place, allowing you to flex it out of the way.
- No need to drain anything or crack any gaskets. Once these two parts are out of the way, the starter just slips right out.
- I spent an hour in the sun trying to get it out without disturbing anything and it just didn't work. Moved the lines and was done in 5 minutes.
- Now the question is should I replace it with a rebuilt or try to fix it myself?
Did it today in about 1.5hrs... not to shabby considering the orignal starter with 200k on it.
PB Blast the bolts, remove the brake line bols and top 1/2 of tranny tube and it went smoothly.
I needed this little victory, this damn truck has kicked my butt on several other DIY repairs in the past (time wise).
PB Blast the bolts, remove the brake line bols and top 1/2 of tranny tube and it went smoothly.
I needed this little victory, this damn truck has kicked my butt on several other DIY repairs in the past (time wise).
1998 Toyota 4Runner Starter Removal
Not to sure about the other years, but on a 1998 Toyota 4Runner V6 3.4 automatic two wheel drive, first jack the truck up & let it rest on jack stands. SECOND, get under the truck & remove the skid plate under the engine. On mine its four bolts. Now you can reach right up with & remove the ground cable from the starter with a socket or open face wrench. Then remove the small cable by pressing the tab on the plastic clip & pulling the clip off. Using a socket with an extension, remove the two bolts that mount the starter. Its kind of a tight area, but it can be done without removing the tire, trani dipstick & brake lines. Dont even waste your time & energy removing those parts. The exhaust pipe also gets in your way next to the top bolt, but with a socket & extension, the bolt can be removed. After you remove the top bolt, lose the extension & use the socket on the bottom bolt. You can also remove the bolts vice versa, either way works.
Once you have removed the mounting bolts, stick your hand up under the MIDDLE underneath the engine where you removed the skid plate. DONT try to get the starter out off to the side by the brake lines, or you'll get pissed real quick. Just let the front of the starter fall down into your hand. As the wider back part of the starter (the mout) tries to get hung up, just give it a slight turn & out the starter drops straight down. The reasons you want to remove the skid plate under the engine first is, its much easier to remove the cables & the starter itself from this area. The whole job removing & installing took me just under an hour & a half. Good luck!
Not to sure about the other years, but on a 1998 Toyota 4Runner V6 3.4 automatic two wheel drive, first jack the truck up & let it rest on jack stands. SECOND, get under the truck & remove the skid plate under the engine. On mine its four bolts. Now you can reach right up with & remove the ground cable from the starter with a socket or open face wrench. Then remove the small cable by pressing the tab on the plastic clip & pulling the clip off. Using a socket with an extension, remove the two bolts that mount the starter. Its kind of a tight area, but it can be done without removing the tire, trani dipstick & brake lines. Dont even waste your time & energy removing those parts. The exhaust pipe also gets in your way next to the top bolt, but with a socket & extension, the bolt can be removed. After you remove the top bolt, lose the extension & use the socket on the bottom bolt. You can also remove the bolts vice versa, either way works.
Once you have removed the mounting bolts, stick your hand up under the MIDDLE underneath the engine where you removed the skid plate. DONT try to get the starter out off to the side by the brake lines, or you'll get pissed real quick. Just let the front of the starter fall down into your hand. As the wider back part of the starter (the mout) tries to get hung up, just give it a slight turn & out the starter drops straight down. The reasons you want to remove the skid plate under the engine first is, its much easier to remove the cables & the starter itself from this area. The whole job removing & installing took me just under an hour & a half. Good luck!
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Starter Motor Removal 1998 4Runner SR5 3.4L, 6 Cyl, 4WD
NOTE: before removing the starter motor, you should get a bottle of power steering fluid. So, following numerous available instructions, I was able to unbolt and disconnect the starter motor only to have the usual problems removing it. In my case, the solution was to disconnect the interfering power steering hydraulic line and push it down and out of the way. After that, the unit slid right out, and the new one slid right in. Be careful with the fluid that runs out, it's nasty stuff. Catch it in a container of some sort. (BTW, I have no idea how to help you guys with automatic transmissions.)
NOTE: before removing the starter motor, you should get a bottle of power steering fluid. So, following numerous available instructions, I was able to unbolt and disconnect the starter motor only to have the usual problems removing it. In my case, the solution was to disconnect the interfering power steering hydraulic line and push it down and out of the way. After that, the unit slid right out, and the new one slid right in. Be careful with the fluid that runs out, it's nasty stuff. Catch it in a container of some sort. (BTW, I have no idea how to help you guys with automatic transmissions.)
Last edited:
dalemanning
New member
Dale
I just had to replace the starter in my 4 Runner after 237,000. miles it is a 1996 SR5, 3.4L auto, 4WD. After evaluatin many options, and the instructions that came with the starter, ( Remove the exhaust). I found this to be quick and simple. Jack the car and remove the right front wheel and pull back the rubber protector.. There you can remove the starter wire 13mm wrench. There is a bracket holding the brake line to the inside of the frame, remove the bolt holding the bracket, 12mm, on the outside of the frame remove the bolt holding the bracket to the brake line to the flex line to the wheel, also 12mm. and pull aside to the left. from under the car using an 18" extension and a flex 14 mm socket or on a universal remove the 2 starter bolts. and the sylenoid wire from the starter. from the wheel well work the starter left and down to clear the motor mount, turn it 180 deg and extract througn the area where you moved the brake lines. took me 45 min.
I figured out what must be the "official" way to remove the starter. I looked at removing the stuff Madbayan removed, but as he described, I didn't know what fluids would leak out and it looked like there must be a better way.
Here it is: You remove the top half of that dipstick tube (one bolt/ plug the bottom half to keep debris out), the front tire and the protective rubber sheet inside the fender. Remove the brake line that goes from a fitting on the frame to the wheel hub and then unbolt that fitting from the frame (one bolt). You do not have to remove the upper brake line. Let the brake fluid drain completely. Using a piece of string, I wrapped it around the brake line/fitting and pulled it to the left out of the way. The starter is now completely accessible. Bleed the brakes after re-assembly.
As I step back and look at it, the segment of brake line that I removed looks like it was designed to be removed for the sole purpose of getting that starter out!
I just had to replace the starter in my 4 Runner after 237,000. miles it is a 1996 SR5, 3.4L auto, 4WD. After evaluatin many options, and the instructions that came with the starter, ( Remove the exhaust). I found this to be quick and simple. Jack the car and remove the right front wheel and pull back the rubber protector.. There you can remove the starter wire 13mm wrench. There is a bracket holding the brake line to the inside of the frame, remove the bolt holding the bracket, 12mm, on the outside of the frame remove the bolt holding the bracket to the brake line to the flex line to the wheel, also 12mm. and pull aside to the left. from under the car using an 18" extension and a flex 14 mm socket or on a universal remove the 2 starter bolts. and the sylenoid wire from the starter. from the wheel well work the starter left and down to clear the motor mount, turn it 180 deg and extract througn the area where you moved the brake lines. took me 45 min.
Found a fast and easy way to change it out
So you guys will laugh about this one. I changed out the starter by lifting the engine up with my hi lift. At the mount next to the starter I made a strap on the mount and lefted it up about 2 in. I could slide the starter in and out behind the wheel without taking it apart.
Hope it helps. I wasted about 2 hours before I came up with this.
So you guys will laugh about this one. I changed out the starter by lifting the engine up with my hi lift. At the mount next to the starter I made a strap on the mount and lefted it up about 2 in. I could slide the starter in and out behind the wheel without taking it apart.
Hope it helps. I wasted about 2 hours before I came up with this.
I struggled with removing the starter from the 1996 Toyota Four Runner. All of the other internet posts related to the 1997 Four runner
- Once you follow the general instructions,YOU MUST remove the transmission dipstick (pulls apart) and remove the two screws that hold the brake lines in place, allowing you to flex it out of the way.
- No need to drain anything or crack any gaskets. Once these two parts are out of the way, the starter just slips right out.
- I spent an hour in the sun trying to get it out without disturbing anything and it just didn't work. Moved the lines and was done in 5 minutes.
Once you have removed the mounting bolts, stick your hand up under the MIDDLE underneath the engine where you removed the skid plate. DON'T try to get out the starter off to the side by the brake lines, or you'll get pissed real quick. Just let the front of the starter fall down into your hand. As the wider back part of the starter (the mount) tries to get hung up, just give it a slight turn, and out drops the starter straight down.
I just had to replace the starter in my 4Runner after 237,000 miles, it is a 1996 SR5, 3.4L auto, 4WD. After evaluating many options, and the instructions that came with the starter (remove the exhaust), I found this to be quick and simple. Jack the car and remove the right front wheel and pull back the rubber protector. There you can remove the starter wire - 13mm wrench. There is a bracket holding the brake line to the inside of the frame, remove the bolt holding the bracket, 12mm. On the outside of the frame, remove the bolt holding the bracket to the brake line to the flex line to the wheel, also 12mm, and pull aside to the left. From under the car using an 18" extension and a flex 14 mm socket or on a universal, remove the 2 starter bolts and the solenoid wire from the starter. From the wheel well, work the starter left and down to clear the motor mount, turn it 180 deg and extract through the area where you moved the brake lines.
I was finally able to unbolt the starter on my '96 4Runner SR5 5-speed manual V6 4WD, and then I was going to simply replace the plunger and both starter contacts in place... it is so dirty inside, however, so now I am going to remove the entire starter to thoroughly clean it on the bench and then correctly install those replacement parts with the proper torque specs...
I hope at least one set of those instructions cited above will help me remove the entire starter from my 4Runner...
starter removal
I have a 1996 v6 four runner. of course its a 4x4 so more stuff in the way. I have ha to remove the starter a few times. I remove the shields underneath for access. Then remove the upper portion of the transmission tube. Finally i unbolt the brake line( on the passenger side). This allows removal with out draining any fluids
I have a 1996 v6 four runner. of course its a 4x4 so more stuff in the way. I have ha to remove the starter a few times. I remove the shields underneath for access. Then remove the upper portion of the transmission tube. Finally i unbolt the brake line( on the passenger side). This allows removal with out draining any fluids
4WD kills you - but there is hope!
When the starter in our 2001 Toyota 4Runner 4WD V6 died (ok a hammer tap got it to turn after a cold night), I decided to try the repair myself.
After watching many YouTube videos and scouring forums like this - I was hesitant because there didn't seem to be any consistency on what worked/didn't work. But some videos showed the starter coming right out and others the brake line bit seemed the most common so....
I jacked up the truck and set it on two stands. Removed battery terminal, the power wire and exciter lead from the starter. With an 18" extender and swivel joint, getting the starter off was a piece of cake.
But it was NOT coming out. I could get it ALMOST out over the stabilizer bar and power steering line, but the dipstick tube welded to the transmission pan blocked it. After fighting this for a while, I removed the rubber panel in the wheel well and unbolted the two brake line brackets. It moved, but not enough. Even after I removed the upper half of the dipstick tube - the manifold was too close to the wheel/spring assembly. That starter was not going to come out through the wheel well. The 4WD was the difference from what I saw in the videos. The spaces are just too tight.
I did NOT want to drain the power steering or brake system to undo the lines and get it through. But based on some earlier posts here, I decided to take the starter apart just to get it OUT. The two long motor bolts came right out and I just cut the short motor wire. In two pieces, the starter came out over the power steering piston/line with no problem.
But I *really* didn't want to try and reassemble the new starter in that cramped and VERY dirty place (lots of caked dust/oil crud). I know I would have gotten grit into the motor housing. On a whim I grabbed the old motor and held it up to the new one. The new one was like an inch shorter and MAYBE a hair thinner. The gear box had a couple small differences.
So on a whim, I got back under the truck and gently tried to get the starter in over the power steering line. I *think* I got it in with the gearbox tilted in first (but can't really remember) and a slight twist here and there - the darn thing slid right into the starter space!!! I didn't have to put any type of pressure on the dipstick tube or power steering line. It was JUST different enough
Then it was trivial to bolt it on and reconnect the wire. Took more time to get the brake lines rebolted than it took to put the starter back on (and the dipstick tube)
SO moral of story - your new starter may be small enough to slip in even though the old starter won't come out. Take the old starter apart, slid it out in pieces and save yourself a whole lot of trouble. I probably wasted 4 hours on a job that knowing all this would have taken 30 minutes.
This is the starter I got: https://amazon.com/DB-Electrical-SND0118-Starter-28100-07010/dp/B007XUHP5S/
Can't believe how the truck starts now!
When the starter in our 2001 Toyota 4Runner 4WD V6 died (ok a hammer tap got it to turn after a cold night), I decided to try the repair myself.
After watching many YouTube videos and scouring forums like this - I was hesitant because there didn't seem to be any consistency on what worked/didn't work. But some videos showed the starter coming right out and others the brake line bit seemed the most common so....
I jacked up the truck and set it on two stands. Removed battery terminal, the power wire and exciter lead from the starter. With an 18" extender and swivel joint, getting the starter off was a piece of cake.
But it was NOT coming out. I could get it ALMOST out over the stabilizer bar and power steering line, but the dipstick tube welded to the transmission pan blocked it. After fighting this for a while, I removed the rubber panel in the wheel well and unbolted the two brake line brackets. It moved, but not enough. Even after I removed the upper half of the dipstick tube - the manifold was too close to the wheel/spring assembly. That starter was not going to come out through the wheel well. The 4WD was the difference from what I saw in the videos. The spaces are just too tight.
I did NOT want to drain the power steering or brake system to undo the lines and get it through. But based on some earlier posts here, I decided to take the starter apart just to get it OUT. The two long motor bolts came right out and I just cut the short motor wire. In two pieces, the starter came out over the power steering piston/line with no problem.
But I *really* didn't want to try and reassemble the new starter in that cramped and VERY dirty place (lots of caked dust/oil crud). I know I would have gotten grit into the motor housing. On a whim I grabbed the old motor and held it up to the new one. The new one was like an inch shorter and MAYBE a hair thinner. The gear box had a couple small differences.
So on a whim, I got back under the truck and gently tried to get the starter in over the power steering line. I *think* I got it in with the gearbox tilted in first (but can't really remember) and a slight twist here and there - the darn thing slid right into the starter space!!! I didn't have to put any type of pressure on the dipstick tube or power steering line. It was JUST different enough
Then it was trivial to bolt it on and reconnect the wire. Took more time to get the brake lines rebolted than it took to put the starter back on (and the dipstick tube)
SO moral of story - your new starter may be small enough to slip in even though the old starter won't come out. Take the old starter apart, slid it out in pieces and save yourself a whole lot of trouble. I probably wasted 4 hours on a job that knowing all this would have taken 30 minutes.
This is the starter I got: https://amazon.com/DB-Electrical-SND0118-Starter-28100-07010/dp/B007XUHP5S/
Can't believe how the truck starts now!
