1999 Limited 2wd ATX Restoration

ATX3rdGen

New member
Long time forum user, y'all have been loads of help already so I figured I would contribute. Picked the truck up from a buddy of mine after I did some basic work, super clean southern car, not a spec of rust, I am the 3rd owner and it has full dealer service up to 200k (223k now).

Day I brought the truck home
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Rear was a bit saggy so I added some '99 talls. They did the trick. I also added some spacers, removed the running boards and polished her up. That bumper dent... has since been repaired and will be repainted.
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The truck had what was assumed to be leaking wheel cylinder in the rear... so began the drama of brakes. Long story short I now have full OEM rear axle bearings, seals, reversed retainers greased tested etc. Along with OEM rear shoes and brake new front brakes. A press, custom bearing pulling, regular bearing pullers, hammers, chisels grinders, and lots of swearing later... Yeah, that's all done.

Pulling inner race and ABS ring.
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Pulling outer race and axle bearing using customer tool found HERE No affiliation.
I forgot to take photos assembling the new parts. I actually set the ABS ring and then set the inner race using the grease test on both sides.

Locked and loaded.
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I also had a cracked intake tube and after my turbo BMW project I had a ton of silicone etc. I simply cut the MAF enclosure off the airbox and cleaned it up. Just so happens to be 3". All factory connections are included, pardon the cheesy couplers, had to snag those local. Need to adjust one line but I am happy. Truck runs like a whole new animal, really happy I did this.
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I also ran also bleed to hell out of my brakes using my motive power bleeder.
Yum
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On the way: New OEM LBJ and UBL, full front and rear poly control arm bushings, 5100 front and rear, maybe an upgrade to a stronger real coil to tow my boat.

More to come.
 
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Nice looking start. I too have that color combo as well and man I don't care for it. If you're going to re-do it please go all black. I'd like to do that with mine. Looks much cleaner to me.
 
Headed out to adjust the rears one more time. I am still getting pulsing under mid braking that just progressively gets worse, also like oscillations. Going to make a final adjust and hope the all new bushing will help a bit. Similar feel to w subframe car getting wheel hop in feel.

Aside from that the damn brakes work GREAT, hit them hard and it stops smooth and fast. Now to decide, air bladder for the talls in the rear or 891s... Don't really want to lift more than 2", the truck is 2wd. I will likely add an OEM rear locker to help pull the boat out of nasty spots along with a trans cooler.
Obligatory "Hey. I took it on dirt" pics. For the time being I will just gave a can mixed of the champagne color and touch up the bumper. Also need to get that license plate fixed...
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Headed out to adjust the rears one more time. I am still getting pulsing under mid braking that just progressively gets worse, also like oscillations. Going to make a final adjust and hope the all new bushing will help a bit. Similar feel to w subframe car getting wheel hop in feel.

Aside from that the damn brakes work GREAT, hit them hard and it stops smooth and fast. Now to decide, air bladder for the talls in the rear or 891s... Don't really want to lift more than 2", the truck is 2wd. I will likely add an OEM rear locker to help pull the boat out of nasty spots along with a trans cooler.
Obligatory "Hey. I took it on dirt" pics. For the time being I will just gave a can mixed of the champagne color and touch up the bumper. Also need to get that license plate fixed...
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Damn, I really love that 2 tone color. Please preserve it!
 
After about 40 miles last night, as I posted above, I was still having issues with pulsing rear brakes. While I know the bushing beings shot is a small part of it (new bearings also helped) something was still up. Also figured I would add that the worn rear shocks are also not helping.

Put her in the air, popped the adjustment covers and checked both wheels. They were both spinning smoothly, no pulsing but no grab, at least it was even on both sides. Added a few clicks on both side with my adjuster tool, worked the wheels and now I had some nice even and light grab. SO an update:

Started with a full cleaning a degreased all all brake components
1. New front rotors and pads, OEM
2. New OEM rear shoes and AZ drums that have been turned
3. All OEM axle bearing overhaul
4. New OEM wheel cylinders
5. Power bled brakes with 4 quarts of DOT 4
6. New diff fluid
7. SUPER fine tuning of the rear drums

It would appear that I have eliminated the pulsing, or at least reduced it until the shoes bed in and the new bushings and shocks get here.
 
X3 on keeping the two tone. Nice work.

Thank you! I am really leaning towards this, the rest is very clean aside from that left front corner. I would like to get rid of the chrome grille and have liked the new "retro" font grilles I have seen. May need to order one or build one, I like the look.

Also found a line on a rear locking diff. I may take a look and see what happens... I may just grab the 4wd. A big reason I didn't care about 4wd was the lack of open land (not private) to just cruise around. Still, the rear locking diff would be very helpful for launching my boat in sketchy spots.

I DO need to take care of the headlights with some subdue projector retrofits, they poor lights are like candles.
 
After about 40 miles last night, as I posted above, I was still having issues with pulsing rear brakes. While I know the bushing beings shot is a small part of it (new bearings also helped) something was still up. Also figured I would add that the worn rear shocks are also not helping.

Put her in the air, popped the adjustment covers and checked both wheels. They were both spinning smoothly, no pulsing but no grab, at least it was even on both sides. Added a few clicks on both side with my adjuster tool, worked the wheels and now I had some nice even and light grab. SO an update:

Started with a full cleaning a degreased all all brake components
1. New front rotors and pads, OEM
2. New OEM rear shoes and AZ drums that have been turned
3. All OEM axle bearing overhaul
4. New OEM wheel cylinders
5. Power bled brakes with 4 quarts of DOT 4
6. New diff fluid
7. SUPER fine tuning of the rear drums

It would appear that I have eliminated the pulsing, or at least reduced it until the shoes bed in and the new bushings and shocks get here.

In looking at your pics it appears that most of the Toyota applied axle flange material (almost like a paper gasket material) is gone, but not all of it. I am struggling with the same pulsation/vibration in my kid's 2000 Tacoma after I replaced drums and shoes and I attribute it to a failure to give the drums a completely flat surface to mount to. I spent two hours out there yesterday with a razor blade and gasket scraper trying to get all that shit off. Moral to the story, either leave the stuff there (it's probably an anti corrosive) or remove it ALL, or else.
 
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Thank you! I am really leaning towards this, the rest is very clean aside from that left front corner. I would like to get rid of the chrome grille and have liked the new "retro" font grilles I have seen. May need to order one or build one, I like the look.

Also found a line on a rear locking diff. I may take a look and see what happens... I may just grab the 4wd. A big reason I didn't care about 4wd was the lack of open land (not private) to just cruise around. Still, the rear locking diff would be very helpful for launching my boat in sketchy spots.

I DO need to take care of the headlights with some subdue projector retrofits, they poor lights are like candles.

Is there any benefit to projector lighting over just swapping to LED bulbs?
I'm really have no clue, sorry
 
Is there any benefit to projector lighting over just swapping to LED bulbs?
I'm really have no clue, sorry

LED along with regular HID are no bueno in halogen headlight without a projector. Light splosion. Ever see those cars/trucks going down the road with a halo around the front? Those.
 
In looking at your pics it appears that most of the Toyota applied axle flange material (almost like a paper gasket material) is gone, but not all of it. I am struggling with the same pulsation/vibration in my kid's 2000 Tacoma after I replaced drums and shoes and I attribute it to a failure to give the drums and completely flat surface to mount to. I spent two hours out there yesterday with a razor blade and gasket scraper trying to get all that shit off. Moral to the story, either leave the stuff there (it's probably an anti corrosive) or remove it ALL, or else.

Hell, that is not a terrible idea at all.
 
Well, the damn thing still shudders at times, it's better, but still there. Going to crank the adjusters a time or two to see if that helps. It's getting better though. Im also confident the worn front and rear suspension bits are contributing. Wheel hop is a common issue in high end cars and is caused by slop in the bushing and mounts, not surprised this would be happening now.

Let's find out!

Oh, local locker is indeed available... but I think he want me to buy the whole drivetrain. Hell, if it's cheap enough I will pull the 4WD swap and put it in storage.
 
Tell me more about that. My 2000 Limited 2WD looks a little saggy as well. What are the '99 talls and how does one go about ordering them?

OEM part number is 48231-35210 check eBay and the forums; I managed to find mine NOS for $100 (good deal). Just have to keep looking, I have been very happy with mine.
 

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