1999 SR5 175k maintenance

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repo

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What would you recommend for maintenance on a 99 SR5 coming up to 175k? I'm afraid I've been quite lax on scheduled maintenance, in fact i don't know if the timing belt has ever been done.

Timing belt
Engine oil/filter
Engine air filter
Cabin filter
Diff oil
Transmission fluid
Spark plugs
Rotate tires
Replace coolant
Replace brake fluid
Water pump?
Transfer case oil?
Valve adjustment?
power steering fluid?

Anything else?
 
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repo said:
What would you recommend for maintenance on a 99 SR5 coming up to 175k? I'm afraid I've been quite lax on scheduled maintenance, in fact i don't know if the timing belt has ever been done.

Timing belt
Engine oil/filter
Engine air filter
Cabin filter -No cabin filter in the 3rd gens.
Diff oil -Do both front and rear diffs. You can use 75W90 in both diffs and the t-case.
Transmission fluid
Spark plugs -Do the spark plug wires also.
Rotate tires
Replace coolant
Replace brake fluid
Water pump? -Definitely do that and the idler pulleys when you do the timing belt. Look on ebay, there are full timing/WP kits available for ~$300.
Transfer case oil? Yes, do with the diffs like I mentioned earlier.
Valve adjustment? -Expensive (~$6-700). Unless it's not running right or you hear valve noise, don't bother. Adjusting the valves on our 3.4s is more time consuming than most engines and messing with your valves when you don't have a problem can be like opening Pandora's box and asking for problems.
power steering fluid?

Anything else?
Click to expand...

Just about everything on your list is a good idea. I wrote a few notes in red next to some items.
 
Thanks for that.

I just called around and they do the water pump and tensioner as a kit with the belt. Quoted about $800 including labor. Ouch. Another place quoted $950 but they do the idler stuff that you mentioned as well.
 
repo said:
Thanks for that.

I just called around and they do the water pump and tensioner as a kit with the belt. Quoted about $800 including labor. Ouch. Another place quoted $950 but they do the idler stuff that you mentioned as well.
Click to expand...

I recommend doing the idlers also because they have a lot of miles on them and you wouldn't want to have to do the job over again in a few thousand miles. $950 is a little high. Most independent shop around here charge ~$700 for the whole works.
 
Called the local dealer and they are actually cheaper than the independant places. They said about $700.
 
Lower ball joints
Milkshake avoidance fix (since you don't mention replacing fluid in clutch hydraulics)
 
brian2sun said:
Just about everything on your list is a good idea. I wrote a few notes in red next to some items.
Click to expand...

When you mentioned the oil for the Diff. Is that Motor oil, or a special Diff oil?
I have 129K on my rig. I have dome some of the things you mentioned.

Done:
Timing belt
Water pump
etc.

Just rebuilt tranny..(D&mn Milkshake)
Replaced plugs
Cleaned MAF

I about to:

Replace Fuel Filter
Plug wires (duh should have done that already.)
PCV valve
Front rear Diff.
 
electronics4u said:
When you mentioned the oil for the Diff. Is that Motor oil, or a special Diff oil?
I have 129K on my rig. I have dome some of the things you mentioned.

Done:
Timing belt
Water pump
etc.

Just rebuilt tranny..(D&mn Milkshake)
Replaced plugs
Cleaned MAF

I about to:

Replace Fuel Filter
Plug wires (duh should have done that already.)
PCV valve
Front rear Diff.
Click to expand...

Definitely don't put motor oil in the diff! Both diffs and the t-case take 75W90 gear oil which is much thicker than normal motor oil. Your manual says to use 80 or 90 weight in one of those items (I don't even remember which one), but most everyone on the forums including myself just use 75W90 in all of them to make it easy and it works perfectly fine.

If you have a 5 speed manual tranny, you put 75W90 in that also, but for auto trannies we use ATF - Dextron II or higher (depending on what year you have). Dexron ATFs are backwards compatible also, so if your tranny calls for DexII (look at your tranny drain plug or owner's manual) you can buy Dexron III, IV, etc.. and it will be fine.
 
For the front/rear diff,

Take the fill plug off first, then do the drain plug, cause if you get the drain plug off and drain all the fluid and can't get the fill plug off your screwed. :)

Also the front diff FILL plug is easily stripped... Make sure you've got the right tools. I believe you'll need a 10mm hex (get a socket type for your ratchet), and a 12mm hex (I just bought a key and cut it, then fit it inside a 6-point 12mm socket).
 
replace the fuel filter if you can. However, it is likely rusted and will be hard to remove without damaging the hard lines. If it looks rusted just leave it alone.
 
Milkshake avoidance fix (since you don't mention replacing fluid in clutch hydraulics

Good call, it's a good idea to replace the radiator with a Koyo A1998 as preventative maintaince. The stock radiator can break down and leak coolant into the trans. If that happens it is bad news for the transmission. Best to avoid it if possible. The koyo A1998 is about $135.
 
I wouldnt worry so much about changing the fuel filter and adjusting valves, unless you know they need done. There are three spots on your drive shaft that can be greased. I would bet that they have never been greased on yours
 
badattitude said:
Milkshake avoidance fix (since you don't mention replacing fluid in clutch hydraulics

Good call, it's a good idea to replace the radiator with a Koyo A1998 as preventative maintaince. The stock radiator can break down and leak coolant into the trans. If that happens it is bad news for the transmission. Best to avoid it if possible. The koyo A1998 is about $135.
Click to expand...

Does the transmission fluid have to be replaced when the radiator is replaced? Because I just paid the money for a transmission flush. I wasn't aware of the milkshake issue until now.

Also are there any warning symptoms of the milkshake problem or is it one of those things that you only find out about after it's too late? Because lately I've been having a burning rubber type smell coming from the front after I drive around. I think it might be spilled oil burning from an oil change. I don't think you could smell anything from the radiator or trans right?
 
1985taylor1925 said:
I wouldnt worry so much about changing the fuel filter and adjusting valves, unless you know they need done. There are three spots on your drive shaft that can be greased. I would bet that they have never been greased on yours
Click to expand...

Going through the service receipts I see the fuel filter was done at 95k so I won't worry about that for now. I'm so grateful to the previous owner for taking care of this vehicle, I've had no problems in 5 years and I bought it with 143k already on it. I had to replace the transfer case seal and the starter, so this 4runner has only cost me $200 in 'surprises' in 5 years, knock on wood.
 
repo said:
Does the transmission fluid have to be replaced when the radiator is replaced? Because I just paid the money for a transmission flush. I wasn't aware of the milkshake issue until now.

Also are there any warning symptoms of the milkshake problem or is it one of those things that you only find out about after it's too late? Because lately I've been having a burning rubber type smell coming from the front after I drive around. I think it might be spilled oil burning from an oil change. I don't think you could smell anything from the radiator or trans right?
Click to expand...

No, you don't need to replace the trans fluid again. It may require a quart to top off but that's it.


Unfortunately, there are no warning signs for the milkshake. Check to see if you radiator says TOYOTA on the top. If not, it has already been replaced. If it says TOYOTA on it I suggest replacing right away. The 99's certianly have the milkshake issue.

EDIT: of course it could have been replaced with another TOYOTA radiator but I still suggest you check FYI
 
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The garage says the lower ball joints and tie rod ends are bad and need to be replaced at $800.

Then $800 for timing belt
$400 or so for fluids
$400 for radiator

Looking at $2500 maybe.

I suppose I could do the radiator and fluids myself and save a few hundred.

Do you think it's worth putting $2500 in to it? I paid $8900 for it 5 years ago and looking around '99 SR5s seem to be asking about $7000 still. So I guess it could be worth it, besides the emotional attachment.
 
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