I have the 199's, and posted a review of them here (you can search my posting history).
My truck's previous owner was an earnest but not overly-talented shade tree mechanic, who did things like put new brake pads on when the rotors were clearly warped and used cheap copper spark plugs (and also managed to run the OEM clutch to 180,000 miles). In any case, after I purchased the truck, the brakes were one of the things I set to cleaning up.
You realistically have three choices:
1) Use factory rotors and brake pads. Given the availability of other solutions out there... this is a bad option.
2) Use 199's. The upside is that it's bolt-on, requires minimal modification, and will not require you to grind your wheels.
3) Use 231's. Some grinding may be required, and you may have to either grind your spare or get a new wheel.
I went with the 199's. I had two sets of tires (3-season and snows), all on split-3-spoke wheels. I did not want to spend the time necessary to grind all the wheels down, or sink the extra $1000 or so into getting new tires and wheels for the truck. If you have 17" wheels already, the 231's are a good option.
In any case, braking is more than just a matter of surface area; it's braking pad quality and heat dissipation that will determine your braking experience. Running cheap pads on a 231 is probably going to be just as bad as running OEM on the factory pads.
My suggestion would be -- if 199 is going to be the less time-consuming / expensive option (ie, you have 16" wheels or otherwise would require a hefty investment to run 231's), invest in quality rotors and high quality pads. Find pads that tolerate heat well (I run ceramics on all my vehicles) and rotors that can cool quickly; there's plenty of debate to be had about drilled / slotted rotors, but at the very least ensure your rotors have good vanes and airflow.
I'm happy with my 199's. I've towed with them with no brake fade. My truck's a 5-speed, and the ability to do engine braking is helpful as well.
