2" body lift installed

M

Magnum

New member
Took way longer then i thought it would but its all done. Had a few minor complications here and there but otherwise went in ok. Only thing is the automatic gear shifter is a bit off. It was already set like in the writeup from 4crawler so i can't really adjust it anymore. When its in drive on the gear shift it says neutral. Only thing i can recommend is thread on all the nuts onto the bolts to make sure u got the right ones. I had three that didn't go on right and i had to run to the hardware store. Pics to come tomorrow i only have before pics on my phone.

Up next week is 3" suspension lift which prolly will end up being less since i have a 99. With 2" bl at least the truck feels like the height it should be at just sucks i had to kill the balance of the truck a bit to do it.
 
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Magnum said:
Only thing is the automatic gear shifter is a bit off. It was already set like in the writeup from 4crawler so i can't really adjust it anymore. When its in drive on the gear shift it says neutral.
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Not sure how the write up from 4crawler states but I

put my rig on a level surface,
moved the transmission to park,
loosened the nut to the shifter linkage,
moved the shifter select to park,
then retightened.

I take it that's pretty much what 4crawler recommended?
 
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Docs/3rdGen4Runner/index.shtml#AutomaticTransmissionLinkage

I don't know if they got the pics mixed up or what. I am going to have to take a look at it when i get some free time and mess with it to get it right. The other thing is this, I just saw this in another write up. I didn't but a washer above the bushing in between it and the body. Is it really that big of a deal if its not there? I didn't notice any washers in between the stock body mounts and the body and the kit didn't come with it so I don't know if thats only on certain years?

BodyLift19.jpg
 
not sure but you prob did it right...i mean, it wouldn't be right if the body frame was touching rubbing on the metal washer...it would prob be tough on the lift blocks also.

keep it coming. Plan on bl lifting myself. :thumb3:
 
Magnum said:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Docs/3rdGen4Runner/index.shtml#AutomaticTransmissionLinkage

I don't know if they got the pics mixed up or what. I am going to have to take a look at it when i get some free time and mess with it to get it right.
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Oh yeah, I remember those instructions. They messed me up lol. Just make sure the transmission is in park and then move the shifter so the indicator shows it's in park before tightening it back down. No need to encourage the linkage one way or another. It's super easy.


Magnum said:
The other thing is this, I just saw this in another write up. I didn't but a washer above the bushing in between it and the body. Is it really that big of a deal if its not there? I didn't notice any washers in between the stock body mounts and the body and the kit didn't come with it so I don't know if thats only on certain years?
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Umm if I'm understanding your question correctly...
It should go bolt head, washer, body of the runner, BL spacer, stock rubber mount, washer, then nut.

If you have the bolt head going to the body of the runner without the washer between the bolt head and the body you need to take it apart and put it between.
 
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hey you got it done! see not too bad...sorry I had to work, I was really looking forward to helping out! Maybe we'll see in in person next Sunday?
 
glenyoshida said:
Oh yeah, I remember those instructions. They messed me up lol. Just make sure the transmission is in park and then move the shifter so the indicator shows it's in park before tightening it back down. No need to encourage the linkage one way or another. It's super easy.




Umm if I'm understanding your question correctly...
It should go bolt head, washer, body of the runner, BL spacer, stock rubber mount, washer, then nut.

If you have the bolt head going to the body of the runner without the washer between the bolt head and the body you need to take it apart and put it between.
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Truck was always in park while doing the lift. And it looks adjusted all the way that was seen in the pic, it doesn't even look like i can adjust it anymore.

No i have it the way you said. I have bolt, then washer i took off the stock bolt, then body of truck, 2inch body mount, stock body mounts the way they were and nut. That writeup makes it sound like its bolt, washer, body of truck, another washer, then 2 inch body mount, etc...
 
had a question? i see that this is a 2" bodylift. if i were gonna do a 2.5" spacer lift just for looks and won't be offroading it, whats better to do? 2" body or the 2.5" spacer suspension lift? what would handle better? thanks
 
Magnum said:
Truck was always in park while doing the lift. And it looks adjusted all the way that was seen in the pic, it doesn't even look like i can adjust it anymore.
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Whoa that's odd. I have a 1.5" BL and I have plenty of room to adjust still. Maybe that 0.5" makes the difference?



hdoggie24 said:
had a question? i see that this is a 2" bodylift. if i were gonna do a 2.5" spacer lift just for looks and won't be offroading it, whats better to do? 2" body or the 2.5" spacer suspension lift? what would handle better? thanks
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A body lift would corner better but a suspension lift would be a softer and more comfortable ride. You will have more body roll with a suspension lift. I thought the stock suspension sucked and was surprised about how much new coils and shocks improved the ride when I put my Toytec 3" lift on. It made a BIG difference. If you can afford the suspension lift that's what I would do if I were in your shoes.
 
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glenyoshida said:
Whoa that's odd. I have a 1.5" BL and I have plenty of room to adjust still. Maybe that 0.5" makes the difference?





A body lift would corner better but a suspension lift would be a softer and more comfortable ride. You will have more body roll with a suspension lift. I thought the stock suspension sucked and was surprised about how much new coils and shocks improved the ride when I put my Toytec 3" lift on. It made a BIG difference. If you can afford the suspension lift that's what I would do if I were in your shoes.
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I thought its the other way around. Since you are changing the center of gravity with a body lift, doesn't it make it easier to flip your truck. I can definitely feel more body roll when i take turns now. Suspension shouldn't alter it as much as a body lift.
 
Magnum said:
suspension lift would always handle better then a body lift. Body lift changes the gravity of the vehicle. Also suspension lift is easier to do then a body lift i would think. I will find out this weekend though.
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Magnum said:
I thought its the other way around. Since you are changing the center of gravity with a body lift, doesn't it make it easier to flip your truck. I can definitely feel more body roll when i take turns now. Suspension shouldn't alter it as much as a body lift.
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All three change the COG. I think it depends on what one calls better handling.

With a body lift the drive train, frame, gas tank, engine all stay at the same height it's only the cab that is raised. You get a degrade in handling because you now have a higher chance of rollover.

With a spacer lift. You raise everything frame, engine, etc. you have the same ability to absorb shock as a stock vehicle but now your COG is worse than a BL. You get even a further degrade in handling and a greater chance of rollover with a spacer lift.

With a suspension lift you also raise everything. This has the greatest chance of a rollover. The main difference now is that you have more suspension travel. It takes the same amount of force in a turn to compress the spring more with longer coils. So unless you put in something unusual such a racing suspension it's going to have more body roll than a BL or spacer lift. You now have a greater ability to absorb the bumpy road better and now have better handling you define handling as a smooth ride. In terms of safety a suspension lift is the most likely to cause a rollover. For comfort, a suspension lift is the best option. For safety a BL is the best.

And I have to say. Your rig looks sweeeeeet with the BL. I dig it. Time for 35s? ;)
 
glenyoshida said:
All three change the COG. I think it depends on what one calls better handling.

With a body lift the drive train, frame, gas tank, engine all stay at the same height it's only the cab that is raised. You get a degrade in handling because you now have a higher chance of rollover.

With a spacer lift. You raise everything frame, engine, etc. you have the same ability to absorb shock as a stock vehicle but now your COG is worse than a BL. You get even a further degrade in handling and a greater chance of rollover with a spacer lift.

With a suspension lift you also raise everything. This has the greatest chance of a rollover. The main difference now is that you have more suspension travel. It takes the same amount of force in a turn to compress the spring more with longer coils. So unless you put in something unusual such a racing suspension it's going to have more body roll than a BL or spacer lift. You now have a greater ability to absorb the bumpy road better and now have better handling you define handling as a smooth ride. In terms of safety a suspension lift is the most likely to cause a rollover. For comfort, a suspension lift is the best option. For safety a BL is the best.

And I have to say. Your rig looks sweeeeeet with the BL. I dig it. Time for 35s? ;)
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very informative post, thanks!
 
Magnum said:
i didn't even attempt to put it back on. Hell the front bumper support didn't come back on. I am just going to sell it and save up for the shrockworks bumper one day
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yeah it ends up being 2" too low anyways...sucks...I'm gonna try and cut mine and weld in 2" of plate to make it taller...or do like you and save for the shrockworks bumper...i love ittt
 
I have a question how do I adjust my shift linkage I'm planning on doing a 2"body lift an I never adjust or touch the shift linkage it's on my 97 4runner limited.
 
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