2000 needs new cat converter

2000T4R4ME

New member
So my check engine light came on in my 2000 sr5 the other day and I took it to the parts store and they said it was the catalytic converter. They reccommended simply bypassing it completely, stating that it would not only get rid of the light but save money and make it sound "meaner"

I am a complete idiot when it comes to cars, but I'm pretty fast at learning things. The questions is this; is this something I can do by myself, or should I take it to a shop?
 
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please don't pollute unnecessarily

The catalytic converter serves a vital function in the exhaust system. It will make your exhaust cleaner before it reaches your muffler-preserving the life of the muffler.

Yes it can be removed and eliminated, but if you value the air we all breathe, please have it replaced properly. Any competent muffler shop should be able to do it. I purchased a cat through Summit Racing that worked just fine for my 2nd gen 4Runner.
That saved me having to pay some shop's exorbitant rate for a replacement "factory" cat. and still satisfied emission requirements which are stiff here in the Mile High City.

Might as well do a "mean" sounding muffler while they are under there, if that is your preference. I like the Flowmasters but there are several good brands out there.
 
Note: to pass emissions you need a cat, so you'll need one eventually regardless of what you decide.

My catalytic converter got stolen a few weeks back so I went through the same dilemma. First I thought of replacing the exhaust without a new cat. I bought a Doug Thorley (Jardine) cat-back exhaust, completely overlooking the fact that I needed a cat. I then had to buy a new cat and wait for shipping. The shop quoted $1,100 for stock replacement and $490 for aftermarket. I bought an Eastern Catalytic Converter from Auto Parts Warehouse for $200.

Installing was very simple until it came to replacing the cat. The old bolts were too rusted and I took it to a shop. They had to drill and tap them and said it was a pain to get off. I had already installed the cat-back exhaust and this install cost me $500 since they said the old o2 sensor was rusted onto the pipe and broke coming off. The other sensor was fine and is still there.

All in all, I am happy. I've been thinking about replacing the exhaust for a while now and this gave me an excuse. It is faster, more responsive, and louder, but not ricey loud, powerful loud. (my roomate knows when I park outside the apartment because she hears me driving up, both the bass and the exhaust).

I spent $225 on the cat-back, $200 on the cat. Without rust, you can install it yourself, and you should if possible, dont waste your money with the shop since its so easy. However, since I bought my setup, they jacked the prices up. The cat-back is now $325 and the cat is $225 but compared to other systems that is still a great deal (many cat-backs like Borla or Magnaflow cost $500-$650 and then you still need the cat).

Here are links if you're interested:
Catalytic Converters (not just the one I got, but mine is second from the top)
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?N=11779+1725+4294967272+5760

Doug Thorley Cat-Back Exhaust:
http://www.autoanything.com/exhausts-mufflers/60A2788A0A0A2117601.aspx

I am thinking about replacing my other o2 sensor, since i have 1 new one, and an all new exhaust system. If anyone has suggestions as to whether or not this would be a smart idea, let me know. They're cheaper online (ive seen about $60) so I might just go ahead, dont want an old, weak link in the system.
 
Do you know what the OBD II code for the check engine light was? I would strongly recomend getting that code and researching the issue first. Your cat maybe alright and something else is bad.
For a parts store to tell you to bypass the cat altogether is amazing and completely unprofessional, and makes me think their problem diagnosis could be crap aswell. For starters, there are two sensors (one before the cat and one after) that measure the amount of O2 in the exhaust gases. The diference between the two sensor readings, and the individual readings themsleves tell the engine computer (ECM) how to 'tune' the engine and get optimum performance and fuel economy. So without the cat (and the sensors) the ECM will conclude something is wrong and without major re-progamming, you will end up with a constant CEL and you wont know if another problem comes up.
And like Ron Helmuth said, please think of the air we breath, the cat makes the bad gases less bad.
 

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