2001 E-locker install question

Z

zwalker16

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Ok guys, i finally found a complete e-locker member/axle assembly. I have been researching and reading several thread and follow the retro fit thread mainly. I have a 2001 4runner and i have a grey/silver 4wd module already in the kicker panel under the steering wheel. My question is this module compatible with the locker. Because the one i have been seeing are black, and this one has more wires than the black one. On the retro fit picture of the harness where it comes inside the truck mine has more wires than the abs harness but im missing the black connector that should be there for the locker running back to the module. Can anyone steer me in the right direction.

this is the thread i mainly am following

Retrofit Electric Locker
 

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And if this one isnt compatible. I should be able to just send a 12v signal to the locker to activate the locker and have it where i can reverse the polarity to unactivate correct?
 
Personally I would skip the factory locker harness - it limits the use of the locker too much for my liking. I am using the Low Range harness right now but will be swapping out to a harness that shows locker position pretty soon.
 
tx_shooter said:
Personally I would skip the factory locker harness - it limits the use of the locker too much for my liking. I am using the Low Range harness right now but will be swapping out to a harness that shows locker position pretty soon.
Click to expand...

thanks for the input. I was looking at their harness but that price is steep. I am looking at building my own harness..
 
tx_shooter said:
Personally I would skip the factory locker harness - it limits the use of the locker too much for my liking. I am using the Low Range harness right now but will be swapping out to a harness that shows locker position pretty soon.
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Disagree.

I depends on how you wire it. Mine is wired as a standalone system, independent of the factory wiring (which can be done on any model year 3rd gen). The OE ECU merely provides the relay functions to control the locker... all the safeties are gone/bypassed, no limitations on use whatsoever.

I can lock the rear in any drivetrain configuration and I have an LED that communicates the locker position and when the locker motor is changing positions.

zwalker16 said:
thanks for the input. I was looking at their harness but that price is steep. I am looking at building my own harness..
Click to expand...

Do it. It's easy, can be done for much lower cost than a manufactured solution, and looks factory. All the info is out there and easily located.
 
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I agree with [MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION]. I wired mine with the factory module, but I grounded the wires for the speed restriction(for simplicity) and 4low wire, so I can lock it anytime(2wd, 4hi, and 4lo). Just have to make sure not to press the button when going above 5mph. I like that the module protects the actuator.\

[MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION] Did you wire a resistor inline with the LED? When I did mine the LED still flashed even when locked. When I put a test light on the wires it was solid once it locked.
 
BigFishAllDay said:
Disagree.

I depends on how you wire it. Mine is wired as a standalone system, independent of the factory wiring (which can be done on any model year 3rd gen). The OE ECU merely provides the relay functions to control the locker... all the safeties are gone/bypassed, no limitations on use whatsoever.

I can lock the rear in any drivetrain configuration and I have an LED that communicates the locker position and when the locker motor is changing positions.



Do it. It's easy, can be done for much lower cost than a manufactured solution, and looks factory. All the info is out there and easily located.
Click to expand...

What write up did you follow??
 
Daneums, I used a Tacoma RR Diff Lock switch which is a lighted switch versus the 4Runner version which is not backlit. The 4Runner switch has a port for a bulb (with a little sticker covering it), but the wiring provisions are not built into the plug/harness. The Tacoma switch includes the bulb and the plug/harness has extra wires to feed it power.

All that being said, the bulb in the switch provides the resistance that the locker ECU is looking for, but is not bright enough to be seen in daylight, so I wired a small LED in series after the bulb to add some visibility and mounted it near the switch.

zwalker16 said:
What write up did you follow??
Click to expand...

Daneums already linked you to my build... all the info is in there if you poke around. Every write-up available on the subject and my own notes are all there.
 
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zwalker16 said:
What write up did you follow??
Click to expand...

Video [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] and I did of the wiring for the OEM locker using the OEM switch, ECU, and the dash light works as well. Bypasses all the safeties and nuances of the Original OEM config so I can enable it in 2wd, 4wd HI and Lo.

https://youtu.be/qAznG_WoS44?t=31m30s

Or you can use the PDF attached
 

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Just wondering, as I'm currently looking for a locker equipped 99-00...

Is it easier, more time/cost effective to just have an aftermarket locker installed than trying to track down the factory rear, module, and switches/wiring?

Seems like a lot of work.

Just wondering, as I really want the locker, but should it be a sticking deal breaker if I find a 4R that is great other than not having the locker? Good ones aren't easy to come by in New England, just wondering if that shouldn't be a huge sticking point for me.
 
Horsethief said:
Just wondering, as I'm currently looking for a locker equipped 99-00...

Is it easier, more time/cost effective to just have an aftermarket locker installed than trying to track down the factory rear, module, and switches/wiring?

Seems like a lot of work.

Just wondering, as I really want the locker, but should it be a sticking deal breaker if I find a 4R that is great other than not having the locker? Good ones aren't easy to come by in New England, just wondering if that shouldn't be a huge sticking point for me.
Click to expand...

You can save quite a bit of money by sourcing a used rear axle with a locker with the e-locker actuator and electrical plugs. You can often get everything you need for under $500. If you choose a route like and ARB air locker, you're looking at $1000 for the locker, and then the labor to install it in the 3rd member plus the labor to remove and replace the 3rd member. So, you have to ask yourself, is the time savings more important to you or is the money savings more important. The e-locker swap is a very affordable option provided you can do the work yourself.
 
mtbtim said:
You can save quite a bit of money by sourcing a used rear axle with a locker with the e-locker actuator and electrical plugs. You can often get everything you need for under $500. If you choose a route like and ARB air locker, you're looking at $1000 for the locker, and then the labor to install it in the 3rd member plus the labor to remove and replace the 3rd member. So, you have to ask yourself, is the time savings more important to you or is the money savings more important. The e-locker swap is a very affordable option provided you can do the work yourself.
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You may be right, but I think finding one may be a needle in a haystack situation.

I remember when I wanted to buy a 3.42 geared 10-bolt for my Firebird. The stocker was a 2.73 geared 10 bolt, the manual transmission cars came stock with the 3.42. A lot of guys would swap them out for a 9" or 12 bolt. I figured the axle swap would be the cheapest/easiest was to get 3.42 gears in my automatic car. I pored over classified for YEARS waiting to score one, I finally gave up. Now that the cars are older, not a lot of people are building them, so there are less parts floating around.

I figure it's the same situation with a 4Runner, at least in finding somewhat rare factory parts.

Also, doesn't the factory locked rear have 4.30 gears, while the non locked has 4.10's or 3.91 or something like that?
 
Horsethief said:
Just wondering, as I'm currently looking for a locker equipped 99-00...

Is it easier, more time/cost effective to just have an aftermarket locker installed than trying to track down the factory rear, module, and switches/wiring?

Seems like a lot of work.

Just wondering, as I really want the locker, but should it be a sticking deal breaker if I find a 4R that is great other than not having the locker? Good ones aren't easy to come by in New England, just wondering if that shouldn't be a huge sticking point for me.
Click to expand...

From what I'm learning..if your truck isn't setup for it..I rather installed a arb
 
BigFishAllDay said:
Daneums, I used a Tacoma RR Diff Lock switch which is a lighted switch versus the 4Runner version which is not backlit. The 4Runner switch has a port for a bulb (with a little sticker covering it), but the wiring provisions are not built into the plug/harness. The Tacoma switch includes the bulb and the plug/harness has extra wires to feed it power.

All that being said, the bulb in the switch provides the resistance that the locker ECU is looking for, but is not bright enough to be seen in daylight, so I wired a small LED in series after the bulb to add some visibility and mounted it near the switch.



Daneums already linked you to my build... all the info is in there if you poke around. Every write-up available on the subject and my own notes are all there.
Click to expand...

I was playing with wiring and built a harness. Unless I'm missing something a relay is needed..there are contacts on the gear wheel that notify the ecu on when it's locked unlicked ect..well there is also a stop on the cover of the gear box..without the relay it's making contact with that and stops..once it hits it I can not get it to engage back open and vise versa....am I missing something? Cuz I see videos of guys wiring it up similar to me with no relays and they didn't have that issue.
 
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