2001 T case swap
- Thread starter opie74
- Start date
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With the ADD, is that all thats needed?
I know they physically fit, just wondering if the electronics will get screwy.
Would it be just as simple as essentially keeping the 4wd button but eliminating the center diff lock? Seems like in theory thats how it will go.
I think my center diff is getting sloppy, and I will never use AWD so Id rather have manual options on the transfer case.
I know they physically fit, just wondering if the electronics will get screwy.
Would it be just as simple as essentially keeping the 4wd button but eliminating the center diff lock? Seems like in theory thats how it will go.
I think my center diff is getting sloppy, and I will never use AWD so Id rather have manual options on the transfer case.
Singtoe
New member
You could wire it using the push button or use the 4wd switch of the J shift transfer case and make it seamless.
Either would be very easy to retrofit electrically.
Just out of curiosity, Why go through the trouble and go backwards in technology to get rid of the AWD feature of your 4Runner?
Either would be very easy to retrofit electrically.
Just out of curiosity, Why go through the trouble and go backwards in technology to get rid of the AWD feature of your 4Runner?
Doc2012
Senior Member
One reason to go back in time and get rid of all the electrical **** is just that reason. It's electrical. If your actuator goes out on the trail, you're ****ed.
OP: I eliminated ALL of my ADD components. All you have to do it just unbolt the ADD t-case, and put in the manual one. Probably wouldnt be a bad idea to change the rear seal on the transmission, incase you mess it up taking the t-case out. As far as keeping the ADD front diff, I can't tell you how to make it still work, but you can always go the manual hub route. Easy to do. Just take the actuator off of the front diff, put a hose clamp on the actuator so it stays "engaged", and swap the knuckles to the manual ones. You're also going to need manual CVs. Took me about 2 hours to do it all.
OP: I eliminated ALL of my ADD components. All you have to do it just unbolt the ADD t-case, and put in the manual one. Probably wouldnt be a bad idea to change the rear seal on the transmission, incase you mess it up taking the t-case out. As far as keeping the ADD front diff, I can't tell you how to make it still work, but you can always go the manual hub route. Easy to do. Just take the actuator off of the front diff, put a hose clamp on the actuator so it stays "engaged", and swap the knuckles to the manual ones. You're also going to need manual CVs. Took me about 2 hours to do it all.
I think the center diff is going out in mine. I don't have a need for AWD, I either use 2wd or 4wd. So if I can eliminate the center then I would like to. Ill run it till it breaks, but I can be on the lookout now for a decently priced Tcase if I know what to look for.
Ive read about doing the conversion to locking hubs.... I may also look into that as well.
Singtoe
New member
The funny thing is that the electric motor that engages the AWD is the same one the locks the center diff for 4WD. So if your AWD goes out, your 4WD will go out too.
What makes you think your AWD is going out?
BTW I did the manual hub conversion and still keep the ADD hooked up. I can lock my hubs up in the winter time and use the ADD on demand. And the for the rest of the year, I can unlock the hubs and keep wear and tear from happening to my cv joints.
What makes you think your AWD is going out?
BTW I did the manual hub conversion and still keep the ADD hooked up. I can lock my hubs up in the winter time and use the ADD on demand. And the for the rest of the year, I can unlock the hubs and keep wear and tear from happening to my cv joints.
So the motor that locks the center diff is the same motor the locks in the front drivetrain? Even more reason to get rid of the electric motors.
My AWD works fine, 4WD works fine. In 2wd, there is a clunk coming from the tcase when going from forward to reverse. Sometimes it happens from park to forward/reverse. If I lock the center diff, the difference in the amount of rotation between the front output and rear output on the case is rather severe. So either than chain is significantly stretched or the center diff has substantial slop.
My AWD works fine, 4WD works fine. In 2wd, there is a clunk coming from the tcase when going from forward to reverse. Sometimes it happens from park to forward/reverse. If I lock the center diff, the difference in the amount of rotation between the front output and rear output on the case is rather severe. So either than chain is significantly stretched or the center diff has substantial slop.
Singtoe
New member
The motor the engages the AWD is the same motor that locks the center diff.
The front ADD uses its own motor. On 2000 and early, there is no electric motor as it works off a vacuum diaphragm.
I still don't understand the hatred for electric motors. Do you want to remove the electric power windows and install the hand crank type?
The front ADD uses its own motor. On 2000 and early, there is no electric motor as it works off a vacuum diaphragm.
I still don't understand the hatred for electric motors. Do you want to remove the electric power windows and install the hand crank type?
