2001 Toyota 4runner intermediatly stalling

[tpham18nm]

01 4runner intermediatly stalling. Found cut wires on ECT

I have had a problem with my 2001 Toyota 4runner intermediately stalling at idle and in drive. I got frustrated and took it to the mechanic when I couldn't track it down. So far I've cleaned the throttle body, replaced the TBS (engine light was on), replaced IACV, and MAF. The mechanic stated that the MAF sensor was cutting in and out so he did something with the wiring (not sure what he did, but he didn't charge me). It's been running good for about 2 weeks until yesterday where it stalled again in traffic.

I read another post and they stated the ECT sensor could be faulty. I am in the process of changing that sensor now.

I have 2 questions-

1) What tool do can you use to take the sensor out? I cannot reach it with regular hand tools.
2) Someone cut the brown wiring to the sensor. I am thinking the brown wire is the ground wire? Is there any reasons why someone would do this? Is it a common mod or something??



Thanks for your help!!!

 

[gamefreakgc]

Uhh, you found your problem I think. It's not a mod, someone was just sloppy. Repair the wire. I think you should have a check engine light on since it has no ground?

The sensor can be reached with a deep socket and a long extension I believe.

 

[Kanoe]

If ECT means Engine Coolant Temp Sensor then it needs both wires. The ECT is a temperature variable resistor and needs a wire on each end for the computer to read the resistance value corresponding to temp.

Put that back together properly and see how the engine behaves before changing the sensor, I would suggest. Also the ECT sensor can be measured with an ohm meter and you can check your measurements against the tables in the FSM. Might give you an idea if the sensor looks OK.

 

[tpham18nm]

If ECT means Engine Coolant Temp Sensor then it needs both wires. The ECT is a temperature variable resistor and needs a wire on each end for the computer to read the resistance value corresponding to temp.

Put that back together properly and see how the engine behaves before changing the sensor, I would suggest. Also the ECT sensor can be measured with an ohm meter and you can check your measurements against the tables in the FSM. Might give you an idea if the sensor looks OK.

The sensor looks okay and seems to be functioning. It is strange to me that the engine light was not on even when the wire was completely cut. When I unplugged the connector from the wire, the code instantly popped up.

Everything seems to be working now! Engine actually seems to be running smoother at idle.

 

[Kanoe]

Good to hear! Not sure about the CEL.

Makes sense about the idle and running better as the computer now knows what temp your engine is at.