2002 4runner won't enter programming mode for key FOB

chaskins77

New member
I've seen several threads about this topic but none that have been able to help me resolve this issue. I'll start by explaining exactly what happened to me.

I bought two new key fobs off of amazon to program to my 4runner. The first time following the directions, my truck entered programming mode. From there I went on to program the remote, however before I checked to make sure it was working I didn't close the door. It cycled the locks a couple of times then wouldn't work. From there I haven't been able to get it back into programming mode at all and I've tried multiple times. I've disconnected the battery and tried to erase all previous FOBS. Nothing will work. I follow the directions and the locks won't auto cycle again so that I can begin the programming of the remote. Does anyone have any idea of what I can do to try to resolve this issue? Again I have read all other threads I could find and haven't found anything to work yet
 
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First guess would be your just not doing it right. Some times it takes me like 5+ tries to get into that mode on my 2002. Then I kept trying over and over with 2 $20 amazon remotes and then gave up because they would get rejected.

I bought the $40 ones and tried again and they worked after a hand full of try's.

I bet just not getting it right, at least that what happened to me a bunch. would get frustrated and screw it up a little and it wouldn't work.
 
if one of those locks isn't working properly, it will act up like that. my driver door lock was weak so i had to try it manually and it took a while.
 
I was having an issue with my 99 where I could not get into programming mode also. Long story short I had a loose wire in the actual keyless entry receiver in he rear hatch. I would close the rear hatch to hard and have no keyless entry. I’d give it a nice thump right next to the rear wiper and then it would start working again. Maybe this could be an issue your having. Good luck!
 
Thanks for the replies everyone I'm pretty positive I am doing it right I have tried multiple times in a row and watched the videos to be sure. It could be the locks, I noticed they slowed down after a couple cycles, but one of the videos that I watched they did the same thing and it worked. WHen you manually cycle the locks are you talking about pulling the stem up and pushing it down yourself? Also, the receiver your talking about is located on the trunk hatch area?
 
Thanks for the replies everyone I'm pretty positive I am doing it right I have tried multiple times in a row and watched the videos to be sure. It could be the locks, I noticed they slowed down after a couple cycles, but one of the videos that I watched they did the same thing and it worked. WHen you manually cycle the locks are you talking about pulling the stem up and pushing it down yourself? Also, the receiver your talking about is located on the trunk hatch area?

Yep, if you open your rear hatch and pop off that inside cover you will be able to access the receiver and wiring . it took a while to figure mine out because it was an intermittent problem I would never lose power locks with the switch on the door but my fob would quit working. I ended up cutting a bad wire and re soldering it. I was good to go after that was able to program my secondary remote and haven’t had any problems since with keyless entry.
 
I've seen several threads about this topic but none that have been able to help me resolve this issue. I'll start by explaining exactly what happened to me.

I bought two new key fobs off of amazon to program to my 4runner. The first time following the directions, my truck entered programming mode. From there I went on to program the remote, however before I checked to make sure it was working I didn't close the door. It cycled the locks a couple of times then wouldn't work. From there I haven't been able to get it back into programming mode at all and I've tried multiple times. I've disconnected the battery and tried to erase all previous FOBS. Nothing will work. I follow the directions and the locks won't auto cycle again so that I can begin the programming of the remote. Does anyone have any idea of what I can do to try to resolve this issue? Again I have read all other threads I could find and haven't found anything to work yet


Have you had any issues with your power locks at all? If the switch/relay that controls it is going out, that could be it. Otherwise, took me about five tries to program my ebay fob although it was OEM. I'd just return the fob after a few more tries, most likely though it's just your timing, it's a PITA.
 
I had trouble too when trying mine. the locks would slow down then not work at all. I waited till the next day and did it and they both worked after a couple of tries.
One is still not right so I may try to program it again or the computer is messed up. I will unlock it and after about 2 min even if I'm in it and door is open, it will lock. rather unsettling.
Good luck and you will get it eventually.
 
Yep, if you open your rear hatch and pop off that inside cover you will be able to access the receiver and wiring . it took a while to figure mine out because it was an intermittent problem I would never lose power locks with the switch on the door but my fob would quit working. I ended up cutting a bad wire and re soldering it. I was good to go after that was able to program my secondary remote and haven’t had any problems since with keyless entry.

I got my rear lift gate apart yesterday, but the only module I saw was the window relay, which was a big orange box. Is the keyless entry receiver mounted somewhere on the regulator behind the steel panel that's got like 10 screws holding it?

I've got a 1999 Limited and have short range issues. Might as well tackle that while I'm fixing the rear lock cylinder and license plate garnish.
I've already replaced both the front actuator motors by pulling them off.
 
I just did mine an hour ago. If your locks slow down as mine did, preventing me from going into programming mode. You can manually lock and unlock the doors by grabbing the lock itself instead of using the botton to cycle 5 times. This worked on the first try for me.
 
I just did mine an hour ago. If your locks slow down as mine did, preventing me from going into programming mode. You can manually lock and unlock the doors by grabbing the lock itself instead of using the botton to cycle 5 times. This worked on the first try for me.

I did this but pressed the button and helped the lock finish cycling with my hand. Kinda like rubbing your belly and patting you head at the same time, but I finally got it.
 
I got my rear lift gate apart yesterday, but the only module I saw was the window relay, which was a big orange box. Is the keyless entry receiver mounted somewhere on the regulator behind the steel panel that's got like 10 screws holding it?

I've got a 1999 Limited and have short range issues. Might as well tackle that while I'm fixing the rear lock cylinder and license plate garnish.
I've already replaced both the front actuator motors by pulling them off.

So I didn’t know this initially either but that orange box/ECU actually controls the function of your rear hatch window, function of the rear dome for hatch as well as your keyless entry. There should be a rubber boot covering the rear hatch wire loom. Pop the rubber boot off to expose the loom and take a peek to make sure none of your wiring is sliced or loose.

I hope I don’t get pee pee slapped for posting a link to another forum but here is a decent write up on it as well.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/dead-rear-hatch-keyless-entry-problem-solved-235816/

Hope maybe this helps! Something easy to check anyways. Good luck!
 
I had this problem.

You need to clear the alarm ECU of previously stored fob info. There is a separate sequence for this in the RS3000 user manual online.

After clearing the ECU, program your new fob like normal and the ECU should recognize it
 
So I didn’t know this initially either but that orange box/ECU actually controls the function of your rear hatch window, function of the rear dome for hatch as well as your keyless entry. There should be a rubber boot covering the rear hatch wire loom. Pop the rubber boot off to expose the loom and take a peek to make sure none of your wiring is sliced or loose.

I hope I don’t get pee pee slapped for posting a link to another forum but here is a decent write up on it as well.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/dead-rear-hatch-keyless-entry-problem-solved-235816/

Hope maybe this helps! Something easy to check anyways. Good luck!

I had this problem.

You need to clear the alarm ECU of previously stored fob info. There is a separate sequence for this in the RS3000 user manual online.

After clearing the ECU, program your new fob like normal and the ECU should recognize it

Thank you guys. I'll try this and check it out again. I've buttoned it up since. Was installing back up cam and doing some repairs in there. Got the majority of everything back in nice and tight too. I'll pull the panel again to check the orange box for antenna wire or something when I run lights into the liftgate in the next few days. I actually ran the wiring through the rubber boot and found no issues with the original wiring.
 
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Keyless entry programming

I could not get my 02 4Runner keyless entry to go into program mode. The actuators would try but were to weak after a few tries. I manually pulled and pushed the lock knob old school style (not the electric button) and it worked the first time with a $12 Walmart fob. This forum is awesome! I’ve been a Toyota fan my whole life. I’ve owned several Toyota’s but my favorite is my 87 straight axle conversion.
 
I'm still left Fob less...even after all tips and tricks. It just wont go into program mode...I've even hooked up jumper cables to my battery thinking that would help boost my slow locks. After about 4 lock/unlock pushes they become unresponsive.
 
Fob instructions that worked for me

I had the sluggish lock problem and almost gave up. What worked for me was to do the 5 lock/unlock cycles using the key in the drivers door. I'll attach an image of the Toyota instructions I used for the programming sequence. The note at the top was added by me about using the key in the lock instead the auto lock button.

I got the fobs off Amazon and I think the cost was 19.95 for two. While the fobs now open and lock the doors, the fob button for the back window doesn't work. And the Alarm button on the fob back is way too easy to press accidentally so I covered it up by taping a piece of plastic over it.
fob.jpg


2000 4Runner sr5, 4WD
 
I'm still left Fob less...even after all tips and tricks. It just wont go into program mode...I've even hooked up jumper cables to my battery thinking that would help boost my slow locks. After about 4 lock/unlock pushes they become unresponsive.

I just did this a 2 weeks ago and failed over and over again the trick to doing this with sluggish door lock actuators is to manually pull up and down at the same time u are cycling the door lock button... I programed it on the first try...
 
I've seen several threads about this topic but none that have been able to help me resolve this issue. I'll start by explaining exactly what happened to me.

I bought two new key fobs off of amazon to program to my 4runner. The first time following the directions, my truck entered programming mode. From there I went on to program the remote, however before I checked to make sure it was working I didn't close the door. It cycled the locks a couple of times then wouldn't work. From there I haven't been able to get it back into programming mode at all and I've tried multiple times. I've disconnected the battery and tried to erase all previous FOBS. Nothing will work. I follow the directions and the locks won't auto cycle again so that I can begin the programming of the remote. Does anyone have any idea of what I can do to try to resolve this issue? Again I have read all other threads I could find and haven't found anything to work yet



You could always try toyota techstream software. Its a lot easier to deal with than the opening and closing and the locking/unlocking
 

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