2003 4runner frame rot
- Thread starter gutie050
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
ScooterMD
New member
people have been posting on this a lot lately. there is apparently an investigation underway. do some searching on the forum and you'll find it.
PharRunner
New member
Personally I would just use a penetrating oil like corrosion x. You need somwthing that soaks into the metal and displaces moisture. Everything else is good for slowing and covering unsighly rust.
feralcomprehension
New member
Just came in from a 3 hour session under my 90k '07 lived-in-Michigan-it's-whole-life V6 4WD.
The rust is honestly ridiculous, I was going to sell my truck before winter to avoid having to deal with it, but my gf found "our 100% dream house" so suddently my available cash is spoken for and I'm keeping it until spring at least.
I'm using a combo approach, scrape and oil.
The scrape is critical, at least on my truck, because there are large (quarter size, near-playing-card size, 1"x4" strips along the welds) areas where the coating is still bonded to itself but loose from the base metal, so unless you look carefully it's hard to tell it's rusty. This is not at all what you want; the hanging flakes can trap moisture and accelerate decay.
I think this is what will kills power steering and trans cooler hardlines as well- the coating fails and lets in moisture, trapping it in place, and then they'll rust through if you never get after it. Mine look great for 70% of the surface, but I found dime-sized areas of rust under bubbled paint once I started scraping.
I have used and recommended CorrosionX (Both regular and HD) since about 2012, I like it very much. One of the best features is how well it creeps across a metallic surface. A quarter size-shot from a spray can will eventually coat a 1' length of angle iron, even working against gravity. The benefit to the user is two fold: The coating is self-healing to a degree, and you don't need to be meticulous about application.
The 4runner is huge, though, and CX is expensive ($100/gal or so), so this year I'm trying Fluid Film with a small amount of CorrsionX mixed in. I'm also interested to see if the thicker FF will remain effective in the airstream. CX works great, but it won't stay on something that's constantly being bombarded by wind/water. I tried to slow some rust at the base of the antenna on my CRV but it didn't work there.
The rust is honestly ridiculous, I was going to sell my truck before winter to avoid having to deal with it, but my gf found "our 100% dream house" so suddently my available cash is spoken for and I'm keeping it until spring at least.
I'm using a combo approach, scrape and oil.
The scrape is critical, at least on my truck, because there are large (quarter size, near-playing-card size, 1"x4" strips along the welds) areas where the coating is still bonded to itself but loose from the base metal, so unless you look carefully it's hard to tell it's rusty. This is not at all what you want; the hanging flakes can trap moisture and accelerate decay.
I think this is what will kills power steering and trans cooler hardlines as well- the coating fails and lets in moisture, trapping it in place, and then they'll rust through if you never get after it. Mine look great for 70% of the surface, but I found dime-sized areas of rust under bubbled paint once I started scraping.
I have used and recommended CorrosionX (Both regular and HD) since about 2012, I like it very much. One of the best features is how well it creeps across a metallic surface. A quarter size-shot from a spray can will eventually coat a 1' length of angle iron, even working against gravity. The benefit to the user is two fold: The coating is self-healing to a degree, and you don't need to be meticulous about application.
The 4runner is huge, though, and CX is expensive ($100/gal or so), so this year I'm trying Fluid Film with a small amount of CorrsionX mixed in. I'm also interested to see if the thicker FF will remain effective in the airstream. CX works great, but it won't stay on something that's constantly being bombarded by wind/water. I tried to slow some rust at the base of the antenna on my CRV but it didn't work there.
Last edited:
Bossman
Senior Member
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/211349-4th-gen-frame-rust.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/159067-4th-gen-rust.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/180929-frame-rust.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/153032-pictures-my-rusty-frame.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/233842-underbody-rust-how-bad.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/255424-frame-rust-2005-toyota-4runner.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/159067-4th-gen-rust.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/180929-frame-rust.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/153032-pictures-my-rusty-frame.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/233842-underbody-rust-how-bad.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/255424-frame-rust-2005-toyota-4runner.html
