2004 4-Runner Sport... just got totaled. Recommend buying a 4thgen with 150k+ miles?

If you're willing to make the trip to Alabama the 4Runner market down here is extremely cheap with low miles and well maintained. I got my 07 V6 2wd in gray with 74k for 13k-14k
 
Search the auto traders and Craig lists in Oklahoma City of Tulsa. Most trucks are rust free good buys too.
 
I would caution against looking too far away from your home. I've been burned by this one. Flew to Florida to buy a car that was far worse than I realized. I guess I was too excited, too optimistic, too young and too stupid. Anyway even if you realize it's not the vehicle for you then you're out airfare for the 1 way ticket you bought to get there plus buying another 1 way to get home.
 
Do you think it's fixable? what kind of damage do you have? My wife had an accident too but during the evaluation, they said that they might get totalled. I did not agree on it and talked to the repair shop that if the evaluator comes, to provide the highest that the insurance can pay and the rest I'll add to the repair. Of course, I asked what's the estimate to repair it so I have a clue how much I'll pay. The repair shop talked it out to pay the highest amount that they can give. Win-win for me and insurance.


Yeah seriously. What sucks too is that my truck had 120k miles on it and was going STRONG. I begged my insurance company to just fix it but "policy is policy" and if the fix costs meet or exceed 80% of their estimated value, it's a total salvage. Great.

OK-- 80k miles as an upper limit is not a bad idea. The used 4runner market here in Milwaukee/Wisconsin is kind of weird. Seems there are lots of junkers for around 10k and then alot of stuff that is in to the 20k-22k area... not much in the middle for less thank 100k miles on it.

I'm really considering just saying 'screw it' and getting this.

08 Highlander Limited w/91k miles

But again, that's alot of miles for almost $20k. Ridiculous.

Thanks for your advice, I really appreciate it. I'll either have to look in to getting something under 80k miles and throw some decent money in to it (ugh) or just bite the bullet and get something for around $8k with 130k-150k+ miles.

I hate both options. :-) I JUST WANT MY TRUCK BACK.
 
I would caution against looking too far away from your home. I've been burned by this one. Flew to Florida to buy a car that was far worse than I realized. I guess I was too excited, too optimistic, too young and too stupid. Anyway even if you realize it's not the vehicle for you then you're out airfare for the 1 way ticket you bought to get there plus buying another 1 way to get home.
Loads of caution!

When I was on the seller side and the buyer came in from Chicago. Buyer wanted to leave me deposit to hold it til he flied out on Saturday. I said if you coming, send me the flight info, if you coming buy a round trip. I will pay for your flight home, If it's not what I say it is.

No deposit required, buyer buying a plane ticket was good enough for me.

I would do it if I felt right about the vehicle and the seller.

As a seller I need to be able to live with my life choices and sleep at night. :D

That one posted in Florida sounds like a decent priced truck and half the miles of the ones you looking at.
 
I paid $10,400 for my 05 Sport in April, with 145k miles.

I looked at younger trucks and trucks with closer to 100k on them and they were all a mess, in way worse shape (dirty, rusty, scratched up) and more expensive than the one I bought.

There is plenty of stock closer to $20k with sub-100k miles on them. Then there is absolute junk below the $10k mark.

I had a budget of around $10-11k so I looked and looked and finally found one I thought I could trust. Sure the 145k miles weren't ideal, but it was in much better shape then every other truck I looked at, and had a long history of dealer maintenance. 5k miles later I'm still very pleased with the decision.

The odometer is only 1 piece of the used car buying equation.

I just picked up my '03. for 7500 143k miles. Id say the interior is an 8 after I cleaned it. the exterior is also an 8 with 1 door ding. paint fade and few scratches on the bumper. I could have found a cleaner one for over 10k. But I can live with the few scratches and ding for a few thousand dollars saved.

When I shop for a vehicle I can care less about interior. You have too look pass the dirty, and filth. make sure there are no deep scratches and tears. Everything else just cleans up. Dealers buy at auction and most used vehicles are filthy. After 200 dollars in detail the vehicle looks close to new. I spent a couple days detailing and disinfecting my truck. When I got it the interior was 4 out of 10 in filth and dirt and smell.

These trucks have jumped a few thousand dollars in the past couple years. Dealers also charge a premium for high mileage ones. However as mentioned they also pay a premium at the auction plus taxes and fees. There is always a strong bidding war for toyotas, acura, honda, and lexus at the auction. Buyers believe they are more reliable, and dealers push them out quick with finance avail. Most modern vehicles last a long time as long as one takes care of them. People have a false pretense about certain manufactures.
 
Do you think it's fixable? what kind of damage do you have? My wife had an accident too but during the evaluation, they said that they might get totalled. I did not agree on it and talked to the repair shop that if the evaluator comes, to provide the highest that the insurance can pay and the rest I'll add to the repair. Of course, I asked what's the estimate to repair it so I have a clue how much I'll pay. The repair shop talked it out to pay the highest amount that they can give. Win-win for me and insurance.

Yeah. I initially had it towed to a reputable auto body place and the adjustor was the one who went out and decided it would be salvage material. When I went to clean it out, at first glance one of the mechanics was like "they SALVAGED this?" Then he looked underneath and popped the hood and was like "oh, I see." The entire inner left wall of the engine frame is twisted and bent backwards, the suspension got jacked up when he popped it up on to the curb, and both front wheels were bent-- not to mention all of the parts on the front would need replacement and painting (hood, bumper, etc.)

It even still drove! :-) Oh well. I'm done agonizing over it and trying to move on, but I appreciate the perspective.

Sucks!
 
We picked up a 2008 a few months back with 110k for $14 from a dealership (not toyota). They were originally at $16k but we talked them down and negotiated all new pads and rotors, as well as a new set of BFGs. The exterior was a 9, interior was about a 7 due to dog hair which was difficult to remove from the carpets but after a few hours of elbow grease and a stiff brush, it looks nearly new and back up to about an 8.5. We have some weathertech mats coming soon so the floors will all be covered. I also changed the cabin air filter which made a huge difference in the smell of the interior. We live in Chicago so I wasn't terribly concerned with being at 100k as we won't be putting a lot of miles on it. We only drive a few times per week at most so we could easily drive this truck for the next 10 years.

Our criteria was the following
$15k budget
had to be 4x4
less than 120k miles
2006 and newer
no major accidents

Limiteds were all around $18 depending on mileage.
Anything with less than 100k was also around $18k. We found an exact same vehicle with 68k and it was $4,500 more than ours with 100k.

If you're only looking to spend ~$10k you will probably be looking at something like a 2003-2005 with between 100 and 150k miles.

Just keep looking around. I really found cargurus.com to be helpful when comparing vehicles age/mileage value.

I'm not sure if you're looking for a v6 or 4x4 but this seems like a decent deal as long as its in decent shape. Its pretty low mileage for a 10 year old vehicle.

http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/invent...d=false&filtersModified=true#listing=92898285
 
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I just picked up my '03. for 7500 143k miles. Id say the interior is an 8 after I cleaned it. the exterior is also an 8 with 1 door ding. paint fade and few scratches on the bumper. I could have found a cleaner one for over 10k. But I can live with the few scratches and ding for a few thousand dollars saved.

When I shop for a vehicle I can care less about interior. You have too look pass the dirty, and filth. make sure there are no deep scratches and tears. Everything else just cleans up. Dealers buy at auction and most used vehicles are filthy. After 200 dollars in detail the vehicle looks close to new. I spent a couple days detailing and disinfecting my truck. When I got it the interior was 4 out of 10 in filth and dirt and smell.

These trucks have jumped a few thousand dollars in the past couple years. Dealers also charge a premium for high mileage ones. However as mentioned they also pay a premium at the auction plus taxes and fees. There is always a strong bidding war for toyotas, acura, honda, and lexus at the auction. Buyers believe they are more reliable, and dealers push them out quick with finance avail. Most modern vehicles last a long time as long as one takes care of them. People have a false pretense about certain manufactures.

I'm not talking about your average dirty interior. I did car detailing for a while so I know the difference. :) I looked at one that had multiple gouges in 90% of the interior plastic. One that i am sure was flooded at some point and stunk of mold. Some looked great inside but were rustbuckets underneath. One I looked at had all 4 wheels de-laminating, all the light lenses where seriously yellowed, and showed obvious neglect. There's a lot of junk out there, but I was in no big rush and kept looking until I found one that fit what I wanted.

Interiors were only part of the equation though, just one piece of the pie.
 
As others have said it is wise to do a very thorough look over of the vehicle & ensure it was taken care of well in the past with documented maintenance etc. Also, if you look outside your area you will have a lot more options & with the right deal for the right truck, a road trip home in it is certainly worth it. I bought my 2004 Sr5 4x4 earlier this year from a reputable dealer in which i have dealt with before that had 159K on it & I ended up paying $9G's for it after the back n forth game of haggling. It was taken care of very well & maintained on a regular basis. I love it and have no regrets with the mileage as it now has near 170K & feels & drives like new. Sometimes you have to take that risk with mileage IMO & with a Toyota that's been properly maintained it's not such a big risk. Best of luck to ya & don't SETTLE for something you don't want because of lower mileage.
 
As others have said it is wise to do a very thorough look over of the vehicle & ensure it was taken care of well in the past with documented maintenance etc. Also, if you look outside your area you will have a lot more options & with the right deal for the right truck, a road trip home in it is certainly worth it. I bought my 2004 Sr5 4x4 earlier this year from a reputable dealer in which i have dealt with before that had 159K on it & I ended up paying $9G's for it after the back n forth game of haggling. It was taken care of very well & maintained on a regular basis. I love it and have no regrets with the mileage as it now has near 170K & feels & drives like new. Sometimes you have to take that risk with mileage IMO & with a Toyota that's been properly maintained it's not such a big risk. Best of luck to ya & don't SETTLE for something you don't want because of lower mileage.

Agreed. Problem with a road trip is the time commitment and the 'see it once before you buy.' I've heard too many horror stories where people fly or drive long distances and the car has something wrong with it.

I think I found a 2004 Sport I buy on Thursday. I'll keep you posted. There is some rust pox-marked on the tailgate, looks like it is bubbling up from under the paint. I am trying to figure out how much that would cost to fix.
 
Agreed. Problem with a road trip is the time commitment and the 'see it once before you buy.' I've heard too many horror stories where people fly or drive long distances and the car has something wrong with it.

I think I found a 2004 Sport I buy on Thursday. I'll keep you posted. There is some rust pox-marked on the tailgate, looks like it is bubbling up from under the paint. I am trying to figure out how much that would cost to fix.

I understand what you mean, it is risky driving to far as I've done it myself & it didn't pan out. I do a lot of research online & only shop at dealers (although they might not always be honest obviously) & don't shop at any joe schmo buy here pay here place. I also would do a carfax & ask if there is records available before traveling out of my way. I have good luck so far with my local Toyota dealer & when I'm looking that's where I start. Good luck with the 2004 Sport, hope its what you want. I love my 2004 SR5, it hasn't let me down yet & I don't expect it will anytime soon. I've never had a vehicle with 200K on it yet but I have faith in this one that it make that & go well beyond.
 
Just wanted to post an update! I found a nice black 2004 Sport with 136k miles from a private Craigslist buyer for $10k. I'm stoked. Took it to a mechanic today before heading to the bank to buy it, and here was his synopsis:

Needs about $600 of work (new shoe/shocks in front, new tailpipe) and the brakes are at about 50% and the tires about 50%, but overall the body and engine are in great shape. There is some minor rust bubbling up on teh liftgate that I think will require a liftgate replacement eventually, which I think all in is about $1200 at a local collision center.

Wanted to say thanks to everybody on here for their advice, it's a great community. Will post pictures soon.

Here's a question-- I am going to take this to a mechanic to do everything I can to get this thing in tip-top like-new shape that I can. Timing belt was replaced at 100k miles already.

Anything in particular I should tell the mechanic to look for besides the basics that I already mentioned? Fluids/transfer case?

The engine feels a little less responsive than my old 4runner (hitting the gas doesn't punch it as quick, seems a bit more sluggish) so I'm not sure if that's a transmission thing, a truck with 135k miles thing, or maybe a timing/computer thing.

Anyways. Thanks guys!
 
Pics!

4runner1.jpg


4runner2.jpg


4runner3.jpg


Pic of the tailgate rust:
4runner4_rust.jpg
 
Change the spark plugs, change the fluids, sand down the rust spot, (maybe hit it with a rust killer as well) take care that now instead of replacing the door later, get new tires going into the winter for safest traction, enjoy the new truck!

You can use a "satin" black finish on the lower 2" of the tailgate when you complete the rust repair.
 
Just wanted to post an update! I found a nice black 2004 Sport with 136k miles from a private Craigslist buyer for $10k. I'm stoked. Took it to a mechanic today before heading to the bank to buy it, and here was his synopsis:

Needs about $600 of work (new shoe/shocks in front, new tailpipe) and the brakes are at about 50% and the tires about 50%, but overall the body and engine are in great shape. There is some minor rust bubbling up on teh liftgate that I think will require a liftgate replacement eventually, which I think all in is about $1200 at a local collision center.

Wanted to say thanks to everybody on here for their advice, it's a great community. Will post pictures soon.

Here's a question-- I am going to take this to a mechanic to do everything I can to get this thing in tip-top like-new shape that I can. Timing belt was replaced at 100k miles already.

Anything in particular I should tell the mechanic to look for besides the basics that I already mentioned? Fluids/transfer case?

The engine feels a little less responsive than my old 4runner (hitting the gas doesn't punch it as quick, seems a bit more sluggish) so I'm not sure if that's a transmission thing, a truck with 135k miles thing, or maybe a timing/computer thing.

Anyways. Thanks guys!

Looks good! I'd have the mechanic really triple check the tranny and transfer case and diffs. Make sure the actuator works well and smoothly.

Power should be good if it's been really taken care of. Don't know why it would be 'sluggish' as you mentioned. These V8's... really fly when running well and in tune.

The liftgate will cost more for a top notch job. There's a lot of stuff in the liftgate, like the rolling rear window, defroster, electronics, etc that can go bad. I know... ext warranty covered the electronics and rear window in mine.

Main thing I'm seeing in the getting older 4th gens... electronics that can make things tough on people's wallets. Its the little things, sometimes the medium things that control other things... that go bad. Most of us cannot trouble shoot the electronics well, some can.

Anyway, good luck on your purchase!
 

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