2004 Limited timing belt question

^^I just bought a water pump for a 2UZ from my Lexus dealer (only ones who had a 2UZ water pump) and it has a metal impeller. Not sure if they updated them or what, but that's what the dealer gave me.

Interesting, I could have sworn they were plastic; perhaps an inline change to replacement parts?

Can you post a picture of it? :)
 
I did my 2003 belt and pump last November with 102,000 miles on it. The timing belt was still in good shape as far as the rubber with no cracking or other signs of problems. It was slightly stretched. I think you would be fine running it for a few more years or until you get to around 100k. I've only been on this forum for about 6 months, but don't remember a post about anyone breaking a timing belt. Maybe someone else can chime in and correct me here. I have read quite a few posts of people going well over 100k with no problems. In my case, it was good that I changed my water pump too it was just beginning to leak.
 
I did my 2003 belt and pump last November with 102,000 miles on it. The timing belt was still in good shape as far as the rubber with no cracking or other signs of problems. It was slightly stretched. I think you would be fine running it for a few more years or until you get to around 100k. I've only been on this forum for about 6 months, but don't remember a post about anyone breaking a timing belt. Maybe someone else can chime in and correct me here. I have read quite a few posts of people going well over 100k with no problems. In my case, it was good that I changed my water pump too it was just beginning to leak.

I have a friend with a 2001 Sequoia (same engine as the 2UZ 4Runners) and they changed the timing belt the first time at 145k miles and it was still in really good shape. The water pump was weeping though, and so were the valve covers. They can go but you take a huge risk going over 110-115k with the original, even more so when it is 10+ years old.
 
Though to be honest I have never seen a Toyota Plastic impeller fail like I have on some European vehicles (if I recall VW had a big issue with that in the past.)

I've read a few horror stories about BMW water pumps with plastic impellers, but I don't have any direct experience.
 
^^I had the impeller come off on my GTi when it only had 40-50k miles (I can't remember exactly). Luckily caught the temp rise and shut it off. That's one of the only times I'll recommend an aftermarket pump with a metal impeller to a customer.
 
^^I had the impeller come off on my GTi when it only had 40-50k miles (I can't remember exactly). Luckily caught the temp rise and shut it off. That's one of the only times I'll recommend an aftermarket pump with a metal impeller to a customer.

Yikes.

I bought a 2000 GTI GLX new. Man was that car a disaster.
 
Interesting, I could have sworn they were plastic; perhaps an inline change to replacement parts?

Can you post a picture of it? :)

Here you go. Sorry, I'm doing a 5VZ truck and my 2UZ at the same time and mixed up the pumps when I glanced at them.

Here's the 2UZ's pump, plastic.




And the 5VZ pump, metal.




Both together. My bad.

 
Timing belts are not made of rubber. They are made of ethylene propylene diene monomer which replaced the neoprene belts of old that had a much shorter life span. The big difference EPDM over neoprene is that EPDM doesn't show wear like neoprene did. They tend to just let go without much warning. While they will easily last twice as long as a neoprene, it is a better idea to follow the replacement guidelines because you are essentially on barrowed time after that. Your engine has no idea how many miles it has turned. In reality, it could have turned more than one with twice the mileage of one that was driven all highway miles.

As for the water pump, only a fool would skip replacing it. I know this as a fool who once did. 3,000 miles after doing my timing belt while driving at 80mph, I lost all power. Coasted to the side of the road in the middle of nowhere ga only to see the frayed belt sticking out of the cover. Lucky for me I was driving an Acura with a non interference engine. With the risk of what could happen on a Toyota engine should a pump fail and take out your timing belt it is complete stupidity not to do so when you have the timing belt off. It is the cheapest insurance you will ever buy.
 
I'll second that most of the belts I've changed (lots and lots from Isuzus to VWs to Hondas...) very few of them showed any visible wear. Also, most of the belts that had already snapped or gave way were the same story. The rest of the belt looked good, so visual cues aren't a reliable way of telling if a belt is about to fail or not.

Don't ask me how I know when I let my old Isuzu snap 100 mlles later after "inspecting" the belt and determining it to be fine.
 
That's a good point, I forgot that they went to EPDM. To note I don't see timing belts actually crack anymore, old ones looks almost identical to new ones (unless they fail.)
 
Just had timing belt done on 03 sr5 v8 at 155k it looked same as new, but last year we had our 2000 3.4 with 180k and it was cracked 3/4's thru. We bought them from orig. owners that had not had them done. Toyota service charged $650-700 for T. belt, water pump and drive belts. I had to know where they stood so did them right away.
 
Got it done, timing belt, water pump etc at a Toyota dealership. But damn, today (the very next day) my check engine light comes on and it's now a bad O2 sensor. Would this have anything to do with the timing belt repair? Or is it just coincidence? Dealership of course says just coincidence and that these sensors can go anytime and it's got nothing to do with the repair. Also I only have 59,000 miles. Is this typical to have this sensor go bad after 59k? Again, it's a 2004 limited V8 4wd.
 

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