2008 4runner Transmission Fluid Flush

Veritas

Veritas

New member
Hi Everyone,

I am getting ready to replace the WS-ATF transmission fluid in my 4runner and I was looking for some advice. I bought 14 quarts and I searched on here and the only thing I could find was to cycle the fluid and dump the pan each time or I could disconnect one of the hoses that the pump feeds into and drain it there(not sure which one though). Also I wanted to do a drain and fill, not necessarily a flush, I don't see any strong reason to go through that hassle.

I have never done a full system before and the reason that I am doing it now is because I drained part of the fluid pan and it was a brown/straw color and smelled sweet and burned. I bought the car used and it has 56,000 miles on it. I was disappointed when I saw the color and decided I would replace all the fluid myself to play it safe.

I know how to do this with the refill plug and the overflow plug on the transmission as well as using the computer to turn the A/T temp light on and off to check for its temperature. So I think I have all my bases covered, but it never hurts to talk to other people and learn what they have.(like doing a drain and fill versus a full flush)

Basically can anyone share their best way of doing it, any steps they have, or any knowledge they can share? I would greatly appreciate it!

Update to add:

After much research I decided it is best to go with a drain and fill rather than a full flush of the system. To each his own, but that was my decision.

Do it properly following this method:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/68462-diy-full-flush-automatic-transmission.html
 
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Theres alot more info about this on here if you do some more searchs. This topic had been posted alot, much more than the one post you found. I am looking to do a full flush myself this summer so I know theres' more. Check it out, great stuff. Personally if your oil smelled burned I'd do a FULL flush. Your gonna go under her and get dirty so you might as well do a complete job instead of a partial.
Good luck.
 
Aquabear said:
Theres alot more info about this on here if you do some more searchs. This topic had been posted alot, much more than the one post you found. I am looking to do a full flush myself this summer so I know theres' more. Check it out, great stuff. Personally if your oil smelled burned I'd do a FULL flush. Your gonna go under her and get dirty so you might as well do a complete job instead of a partial.
Good luck.
Click to expand...

I agree with you and am still hunting for threads, however there is so much BAD information out there on this subject, I want to try to create a thread that actually makes sense and can be used by others with repeatable results. That is why I am asking for help on the subject.
 
SkylineGTRracer said:
Here you go....
DIY: Full Flush for Automatic Transmission - Tacoma World Forums
Click to expand...

DUDE! YES YES YES!! That is exactly what I was looking for, this is an incredibly detailed and well written write up!!

Thank you for posting that, I think that is the golden ticket right there. Especially since he has you protect the pump by not allowing all fluid to leave.

Awesome Find! All I need to do now is remove the skid plate(s) and verify if my hoses are in the same place. I will definitely update this thread with my results after the weekend.
 
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Do you guys know if anyone has come up with a replacement fluid besides the Toyota WS juice? As I am currently using Redline D4 in my Acura TL, much better than the ****ty Honda Z1 which caused me to need my tranny replaced @ 45K on the TL. (Warranty work)
 
chayos00 said:
Do you guys know if anyone has come up with a replacement fluid besides the Toyota WS juice? As I am currently using Redline D4 in my Acura TL, much better than the ****ty Honda Z1 which caused me to need my tranny replaced @ 45K on the TL. (Warranty work)
Click to expand...

The WS ATF is not unreasonably priced by any means, it was only $6.50 a quart. Not priced unfairly in my opinion.
 
I did this 2 weekends ago, but have been busy with work so didn't reply here.

I did the drain and fill Skyline posted above, it is the perfect way of doing it, very safe, minimal work and very very low chance of introducing dirt/grime into the transmission, since you always refill at the refill plug.

I drained the pan (~3.2qts) refilled it and checked what came out of the inlet tube and it was looking really good. I then took out 2 more quarts and refilled that same exact amount with marked quart jugs. Below is a picture of what it looked like after only 4 quarts, I stopped at 6 quarts because I saw no reason to go any further, it was very clean, thin and red.

TransmissionFluid.jpg~original


This is probably the best possible way you could do it, very easy and well worth it! After 6 quarts(~50% new overall mixed in), I was happy with the results and stopped there.

Just to help out more, use this strategy:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/68462-diy-full-flush-automatic-transmission.html

Transmission is very smooth now as well, nothing to noticeable, but I have better peace of mind now.
 
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Wouldn't it be easier and better to just disconnect the lines from the tranny cooler and put the return line into an empty container and the supply line into the new ATF? This is faster and easier than the back and forth method and it also will completely change out every bit of old ATF which IMO is the only right way to do it. Not sure why you would do a change and leave a bunch of the old still in to mix with the new.
 
Gatafly said:
Wouldn't it be easier and better to just disconnect the lines from the tranny cooler and put the return line into an empty container and the supply line into the new ATF? This is faster and easier than the back and forth method and it also will completely change out every bit of old ATF which IMO is the only right way to do it. Not sure why you would do a change and leave a bunch of the old still in to mix with the new.
Click to expand...


Not exactly, you raise the chance of introducing contaminants into the transmission doing it that way. If you go through the refill plug the Transmission fluid has to pass through the screen/filter and therefore will get rid of any particles. An extremely minute amount of dirt can cause major transmission issues, there is a reason they are built in a clean room, do it however you like though.

As for my method of doing this every 10K-20K miles, it is my choice whether you agree with it or not, to each his own.
 
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Veritas said:
Not exactly, you raise the chance of introducing contaminants into the transmission doing it that way. If you go through the refill plug the Transmission fluid has to pass through the screen/filter and therefore will get rid of any particles. An extremely minute amount of dirt can cause major transmission issues, there is a reason they are built in a clean room, do it however you like though.

As for my method of doing this every 10K-20K miles, it is my choice whether you agree with it or not, to each his own.
Click to expand...

Didn't know you changed fluid every 10-20k. Since you were essentially low miles to begin with and change it every 10-20k then I can see no reason not to do it this way.
 
If you are going to change the fluid (WS does NOT require any flushing or changing during the life of the vehicle, inspection of the fluid is recommended at 100,000 miles), do yourself a favor and do it the right way, flush the whole system. A special service tool to fill the transmission is required so for approx $200 let the Stealer do it. These sealed trans' were purposely designed to be maintenance free (even the filter) and NOT be serviced by owners. Unless you measure the exact amount you will not know if you have the right amount in it (there is no level plug).

The color of the fluid means NOTHING, only an analysis can determine if the fluid needs to be changed. I suggest you take a sample and have it analyzed before going through all this trouble, time and money. Also I suggest using the Amsoil WS replacement; it meets Toyota's spec and will not void your warranty (if the change is done to spec). The Amsoil fluid can stand up to 800hp and even has an anti-shudder additive.

Koz
 
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