2008 spare tire winch replacement - need directions

[xxaarraa]

Had the dreaded spare tire winch (old cable type) sieze up on my 2008. I am going to replace with the 5th gen chain type. I need some help in getting the old winch off the cross member.

All the threads I can bring up on a search say there are 6 bolts. I only see 2? Can anyone please post a detailed / step by step on how to remove the old spare tire winch? Pics would be much appreciated, thanks a lot.

 

[xxaarraa]

I think I found the answer.

I thought Toyota superceded all the old cable type winches with the newer chain type. However, partznet for a 2008 4R still brings up the old style:
Spare Carrier for 2008 Toyota 4Runner|51900-60280 : Genuine OEM Toyota Parts & Accessories | toyotapartznet.com

Here is the newer cable style for a 2012 4R:
http://www.partznet.com/toyota/4run...-and-components-scat/?part_name=spare-carrier

Anyone know if the newer style bolts right on to our 4th gens?

I am going to assume that my current bolts are seized and so I will have to cut them off. How does one get a grinder / cutting wheel up there between the cross member and body? It doesn't seem like there's any clearance to get something in there other than a ratcheting crescent wrench.

Speaking of crescent wrenches, anyone know if these bolts are torqued high? Can a ratcheting crescent wrench do the job to get the bolts off and tighten new ones?

 

[xxaarraa]

I was doing my rust cleanup - Been a while since I did this previously, at least in the back. I use a wire wheel to clean off as much surface rust as I can, and then hit it with rustoleum enamel. Boston winters are brutal...

 

[oljedi11950]

Did you try soaking with pb blaster so MAYBE no grinding ?

 

[xxaarraa]

Did you try soaking with pb blaster so MAYBE no grinding ?

Haven't yet, but will do that before cutting. However, I am preparing for the worst case. Most things like this end up having to be cut off - just the nature of living in the north east.

Any tips for my question on how to cut them off?

 

[Elan750]

Ok I went through this a few months ago. I bought a used one of eBay, making sure it was from Arizona which parts seem to come rust free. Got it for 40 bucks and it looked great. I unraveled it and sprayed the whole line with lithium grease to prevent future rust.

The old one was a real pain. I'm in Boston so the whole area looked like a flaking rusted mess. Here were my steps.
First, I removed the hourglass metal cover thingy. Then grind through the cable to remove the wheel holder. Then after a half hour of desperate bolt loosening attempts, I started smashing the white plastic with a hammer. This exposes the cable. Then with a grinder,I grinded off the rivet on the side, and pulled out the shaft. This let the whole reel/cable fall out, and exposing the inside portion of the rusted bolts! I had to bend/ grind away the two sides to get better access to the bolts. There are 6 bolts. Two came out as they should. On another two I grinded flats on the bolts and twisted them out with channel locks. Then two more I grinded them down as far as I could, and pried the whole thing off.

There's no one way to do it, and it will differ from truck to truck, but hopefully you get some ideas from my experience. It's a real pain but that sucker will come out. Gotta have a grinder.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[oljedi11950]

Haven't yet, but will do that before cutting. However, I am preparing for the worst case. Most things like this end up having to be cut off - just the nature of living in the north east.

Any tips for my question on how to cut them off?

Maybe a dremel ? Idk not much space to get anything much bigger in there !:laser:

 

[TechWrench]

I think I found the answer.

I thought Toyota superceded all the old cable type winches with the newer chain type. However, partznet for a 2008 4R still brings up the old style:
Spare Carrier for 2008 Toyota 4Runner|51900-60280 : Genuine OEM Toyota Parts & Accessories | toyotapartznet.com

Here is the newer cable style for a 2012 4R:
Spare Carrier for 2012 Toyota 4Runner|51900-35402 : Genuine OEM Toyota Parts & Accessories | toyotapartznet.com

Anyone know if the newer style bolts right on to our 4th gens?

I am going to assume that my current bolts are seized and so I will have to cut them off. How does one get a grinder / cutting wheel up there between the cross member and body? It doesn't seem like there's any clearance to get something in there other than a ratcheting crescent wrench.

Speaking of crescent wrenches, anyone know if these bolts are torqued high? Can a ratcheting crescent wrench do the job to get the bolts off and tighten new ones?

I have done this winch replacement twice, on two different vehicles. I can absolutely verify that there are 6 bolts holding base of winch to cross member. I found, after trying many different methods, that if the bolts do not turn with 6-point ratchet easily, then the best option is to cut the old bolts off. Since the old base bracket will not be reused, I cut the bolts with an air hammer with chisel head. They are not hardened bolts, so they cut fairly easily, if chisel is sharp. I got a new set of bolts with washers and nuts to reinstall the replacement winch, instead of trying to match correct threads on base. With bolts and nuts, it is a lot easier to reinstall and tighten them in place. And if you eve have to remove it again, it will be easier the next time.

I can also verify that the chain type winch will bolt up exactly as the cable type does, it is a direct replacement. The only issue I had, which isn't a big deal, was the chain type winch doesn't spool the excess chain in the mechanism like the cable model. It allows the excess chain to hang down through the wheel spokes. I didn't like having the excess chain hanging down (my personal issue), so I use a piece of bailing wire to hold the excess chain up out of the way. As I understand it, Toyota no longer sells/stocks the cable type winch. The chain type supersedes the cable one. If you really 'have' to have the cable style, you will have to try to find a good used one, or someplace with left over old stock. I, IMHO, think the switch to the chain type is a big improvement. The cable model was a poor design, which was prone to failure, especially in the 'rust' belt areas.

 

[xxaarraa]

I have done this winch replacement twice, on two different vehicles. I can absolutely verify that there are 6 bolts holding base of winch to cross member. I found, after trying many different methods, that if the bolts do not turn with 6-point ratchet easily, then the best option is to cut the old bolts off. Since the old base bracket will not be reused, I cut the bolts with an air hammer with chisel head. They are not hardened bolts, so they cut fairly easily, if chisel is sharp. I got a new set of bolts with washers and nuts to reinstall the replacement winch, instead of trying to match correct threads on base. With bolts and nuts, it is a lot easier to reinstall and tighten them in place. And if you eve have to remove it again, it will be easier the next time.

I can also verify that the chain type winch will bolt up exactly as the cable type does, it is a direct replacement. The only issue I had, which isn't a big deal, was the chain type winch doesn't spool the excess chain in the mechanism like the cable model. It allows the excess chain to hang down through the wheel spokes. I didn't like having the excess chain hanging down (my personal issue), so I use a piece of bailing wire to hold the excess chain up out of the way. As I understand it, Toyota no longer sells/stocks the cable type winch. The chain type supersedes the cable one. If you really 'have' to have the cable style, you will have to try to find a good used one, or someplace with left over old stock. I, IMHO, think the switch to the chain type is a big improvement. The cable model was a poor design, which was prone to failure, especially in the 'rust' belt areas.

Thank you for confirming that the chain type will bolt on, just ordered one ($104 shipped from partznet).

Great tip on using an air chisel. I would totally just chisel off the old rusted bolts and use fresh ones. Might be the opportunity to pickup a small air compressor and air chisel.

 

[AuSeeker]

It great that the chain tire holder will bolt right up in place of the cable unit, good to know!!

BUT just an FYI, a air chisel uses a lot of (air) CFMs, about 4 CFM @ 90 PSI on average so I don't think a small compressor will do the job effectively if at all!

So make sure you get a compressor that will operate a air chisel.

 

[TechWrench]

Thank you for confirming that the chain type will bolt on, just ordered one ($104 shipped from partznet).

Great tip on using an air chisel. I would totally just chisel off the old rusted bolts and use fresh ones. Might be the opportunity to pickup a small air compressor and air chisel.

I agree with AuSeeker, that a small compressor will probably not provide the volume of air at a high enough psi to run an air chisel. You could do it the old fashioned way, with a good sharp cold chisel and hammer. I did it that way on my first one.

 

[xxaarraa]

It great that the chain tire holder will bolt right up in place of the cable unit, good to know!!

BUT just an FYI, a air chisel uses a lot of (air) CFMs, about 4 CFM @ 90 PSI on average so I don't think a small compressor will do the job effectively if at all!

So make sure you get a compressor that will operate a air chisel.

I agree with AuSeeker, that a small compressor will probably not provide the volume of air at a high enough psi to run an air chisel. You could do it the old fashioned way, with a good sharp cold chisel and hammer. I did it that way on my first one.

Thanks for the warning guys! I did some research and found the same thing - 4-5 cfm necessary. Harborfreight seems to have this that I was thinking of:

8 gal. 2 HP 125 PSI Oil Lube Air Compressor

I am not usually a harborfreight kinda guy, but I never use air tools and don't have any. I have a high end Ingersoll Rand 18V impact that does up to 700 ft-lbs and does everything I need so I don't want to dump a ton of cash into an air compressor setup. That HF compressor should do basic jobs correct? HF also has an air chisel for $15 or so.

 

[TechWrench]

Thanks for the warning guys! I did some research and found the same thing - 4-5 cfm necessary. Harborfreight seems to have this that I was thinking of:

8 gal. 2 HP 125 PSI Oil Lube Air Compressor

I am not usually a harborfreight kinda guy, but I never use air tools and don't have any. I have a high end Ingersoll Rand 18V impact that does up to 700 ft-lbs and does everything I need so I don't want to dump a ton of cash into an air compressor setup. That HF compressor should do basic jobs correct? HF also has an air chisel for $15 or so.

For light home owner use, that should work fine. I have a bunch of air tools from my wrench days (long ago), and I have had a similar style unit from Sears that I picked up over 20 years ago, and it still runs them all. It will not produce a psi over 125, but because it has a tank, it will run the high volume air tools. But, you will have to stop every now and then to let it catch up. I also have the HF air chisel, which I got a few years back to replace my original one that finally died. It is OK for general home owners use, but be aware that the bits/chisels that they sell are not as 'hard' as regular shop quality ones. They will work, but will lose their edge quicker.

 

[AuSeeker]

I agree that the HF compressor should work for what you need it to do and it will come in handy for many things on your 4 Runner and around the home, airing up tires, blowing crud and debris out of tight spots, etc., you may want to get a air nozzle and tire chuck while there at HF and also agree on the low qaulity of the chisels that come with the HF air chisel, you may want to get a cheap bench grinder while your at HF to sharpen the chisel after it gets dull, it will speed the job up and especially if you think you may have further use of the grinder for other jobs around your home and to sharpen other tools.