2008 SR5 f/r differential and central case fluid change

nofear6235

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2008 SR5 f/r differential and transfer case fluid change

Hi,
I have 2008 SR5 and I am an original owner. My car is closing up to 40K miles and I been thinking about the fluid change. Did search and found different info on the mileage when this type of services needs to be done. I can't find in manual as well. What are these numbers?
Also ATF, when it has to be replace.
My car is a daily driver, no extreme .
Thanks in advance.
Alex
 
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I think neither one has a set interval if you don't tow. I personally changed my diff and transfer fluids at around 60k so I could switch to synthetic. I'm glad I did because the fluid that came out looked well worn. If you feel up to it I wouldn't hesitate to do it at 40k. It's probably still fine but I just feel better knowing there's full synthetic in there. Plus, I bought mine used and didn't know how much towing, if any, had been done.

For the transmission, again, no set interval. I think I'll probably start having mine drained and filled at 100k or so. Just make sure they drain and fill, don't flush it.
 
60k on the diff fluids.
100k, recommended, on the ATF. The ATF is meant to last a very, very, long time and if you are not towing; no need at 40k.

Hope that helps.
I find it is really helpful to just call your local dealer. They don't make really any money on these jobs, so I find them to be pretty truthful. Now, will they try to upsell? Sure. But, every dealer I have called has been real honest on whether it needed to be done.

I paid about 180 for all diffs and transfer case fluid change. 280ish for the ATF fluid exchange. My truck has 115k on it when done.
 
I think neither one has a set interval if you don't tow. I personally changed my diff and transfer fluids at around 60k so I could switch to synthetic. I'm glad I did because the fluid that came out looked well worn. If you feel up to it I wouldn't hesitate to do it at 40k. It's probably still fine but I just feel better knowing there's full synthetic in there. Plus, I bought mine used and didn't know how much towing, if any, had been done.

For the transmission, again, no set interval. I think I'll probably start having mine drained and filled at 100k or so. Just make sure they drain and fill, don't flush it.


Thought this too, but even dyno is very, very, very dense. The smell it has, that disgusting hell and brimstone smell is the very dense particles that don't want to break.

The difference between dyno and synthetic for think gear oil is no where near as much as with your lighter oils that are subject to combustion heat.
Gear oil is meant to be thick and not break down. Plus, if you consider that 80% of the breakdown of engine oil has nothing to do with the movement of the engine but it being subjected to the extreme heat of the engine cycle (1000 plus degrees in cycle).

Your diff never gets close to that. If your diff breaks 200, I would be shocked. Drive for 6 hours, jump down and you can still easily put your hand on the diff. It doesn't get hot enough to even remotely start to breakdown.
 
Very nice, it covers all I need to know. Thanks for quick reply jimithing and DC runner. I am off the hook for now with fluids.
As for the dealers I see what you saying DC runner, it is a good price they charge you for having it done including oil! I have good local Toyota Dealer where I buy parts for my cars and they pretty good, but I enjoy DIY, despite "that disgusting hell and brimstone smell" LOL.
Thanks again guys for valuable info.
Alex
 
I changed the Diff fluid in my old Jeep Wrangler TJ after I sold it (to a friend) back in May and my garage still has that funky stench. No drain plug on the Jeep diffs either so it was considerably messier.
 
Thought this too, but even dyno is very, very, very dense. The smell it has, that disgusting hell and brimstone smell is the very dense particles that don't want to break.

I still say the worse smell I've ever experienced with any kind of oil was the supercharger oil in my old GTP. God damn that stuff was terrible. I'd say twice as bad as old gear lube. LOL
 
I changed mine on my own on my old 4runner. 90 v6. Doubt they had ever been changed.

I was driving back to the autozone to dump the old stuff, hit a pothole or something, and it tipped over.

I never, and I mean never, got rid of that smell. It was HORRID.

Sold it that way. Nothing to do.
 
I paid about 180 for all diffs and transfer case fluid change. 280ish for the ATF fluid exchange. My truck has 115k on it when done.

If you have the time, some basic tools, a 10mm hex bit, and a hand pump for the gear oil bottles, you can do all three for under $50 which includes dyno gear oil and crush washers. Hard part will be getting old fill and drain plugs off. Good how-to write ups in Maintenance subforum. Whoever does the job, make sure they don't overtighten plugs.
 
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I did mine at 60k and they all needed it! Get a hose that hooks to the gear oil, you will need it! I also did my spark plugs. They weren't bad, but i noticed a little pep in my engine after i changed them!
I cracked the fill hole open on my tranny and it still looked and smelled perfect! I will prob drain and fill a few times around 100k.
Oh yea, replace the crush washers!

Everything is super easy!!! DIY
 
Is the crash washers different for front/rear and transfer case? Does any one have part number?
Some time ago i did rear dif on my 2006 WRX and it has liquid gasket instead of crash washer
 

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You will need crush washers for the drain and fill plugs. A few of them are the same and a few are different. I forget. Just go to Toyota and buy them, I think I spent a around 3.50 on all 6.

If u r gunna do your trsnny u will need 4 quarts of ATF anyways. There's a lot more ATF in there but u will only drain a little bit. It's good the do 3 or 4 draing and fills with 500 mile intervals. To freshen up the ATF.
 
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