2010 or 2011 Trail?

philo

New member
Would like everyone's opinion. It's that time of the year where I could get a great deal on a 2010 Trail or wait another month or so and get a 2011 Trail. I've always stayed away from the first model year but it seems like nothing is really changing (atleast what's visible) for 2011. What would you recommend?
 
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Would like everyone's opinion. It's that time of the year where I could get a great deal on a 2010 Trail or wait another month or so and get a 2011 Trail. I've always stayed away from the first model year but it seems like nothing is really changing (atleast what's visible) for 2011. What would you recommend?

No changes were made. If you want to save money buy the 2010. If your into needing the newest year vehicle then by the 2011 in 2010. Since there was no change to them I would save my money and pick up a 2010.
 
Depends:

- on how good the deal is
- can you get exactly what you want in a 2010 vs ordering
- how anal are you about a 1 year older model's reduced value at time of resale.
- is the 2010 new-new
- are you getting *good* pricing on the '11, eg at least 10%, hopefully better, off msrp, so you can really compare

I've done it both ways. As long as the numbers make you happy, and you can get what you want, go for it.

Curious as to how the pricing is on a '10...
 
Hmmm... I just did this comparison and the discounts on the 2010's were nowhere near where I would have needed them to be to take what is essentially last year’s model.
 
Also consider how long you plan on keeping the truck. If you think your only keeping it for a couple of years get the 2011. If you plan on keeping it for over 6 yrs get a good price and get the 2010. I had the same choice. I keep my trucks for a long time so the price and the options and color I wanted worked for me I went for the 2010.
 
I tried to do a little research and it seems between model years, milage being equal, there was a $1500 price drop from later to earlier year. So If you can find a 2010 for $1500 under invoice I think it may be worth it, assuming you get the color/options you want.

USAA quoted me $1700 below invoice on a 2010 TE but I decided to wait for the 2011 anyways =)
 
Also consider how long you plan on keeping the truck. If you think your only keeping it for a couple of years get the 2011. If you plan on keeping it for over 6 yrs get a good price and get the 2010. I had the same choice. I keep my trucks for a long time so the price and the options and color I wanted worked for me I went for the 2010.

Agree completely.
 
I've always stayed away from the first model year but it seems like nothing is really changing (atleast what's visible) for 2011.

2011 will have the brake override that defaults to the brake only when brake and accelerator are operated simultaneously. It would make sense to disable it in low range but you never know. If it were me, I'd want to make sure I knew how it worked in all circumstances before buying.
 
2011 will have the brake override that defaults to the brake only when brake and accelerator are operated simultaneously. It would make sense to disable it in low range but you never know. If it were me, I'd want to make sure I knew how it worked in all circumstances before buying.

The logic of the brake overrides in most vehicles is such that they don't cut in with mild brake and accelerator applications. So you can still left foot brake without losing all throttle. They typically only kick if you have very high throttle settings plus brakes.
 
The logic of the brake overrides in most vehicles is such that they don't cut in with mild brake and accelerator applications. So you can still left foot brake without losing all throttle. They typically only kick if you have very high throttle settings plus brakes.

Good to know. I'd still have to test it out from behind the wheel, though.
 
If you drive a lot of miles, it might make sense to buy the 2010. At time of trade in a dealer will not add value for low miles, but will definitely deduct for a high mileage car. To the point of others on this thread make sure the deal is worth it. Based on what others are reporting you can get pretty close to invoice on a 2011.

If you don't drive a lot of miles, then I am in the camp that says buy the 2011.
 
Haggle with the dealer if you can get the 2011 for the price of 2010 since there's no difference between the two.
 
Haggle with the dealer if you can get the 2011 for the price of 2010 since there's no difference between the two.

I'd doubt the dealer will sell the 2011 for as low as they would let a 2010 go for. The difference between the 2 is that the 2010 is less desireable simply due to resale value therefore creating higher demand for 2011's which means they won't sell for as low as a 2010 with less demand.
 
I'd doubt the dealer will sell the 2011 for as low as they would let a 2010 go for. The difference between the 2 is that the 2010 is less desireable simply due to resale value therefore creating higher demand for 2011's which means they won't sell for as low as a 2010 with less demand.

In that case if i were the dealer, then i'd tell the customer that this was built in 2010 and is now the 2011 T4R Trail Edition. :lol:
 
In that case if i were the dealer, then i'd tell the customer that this was built in 2010 and is now the 2011 T4R Trail Edition. :lol:

Haha, it could work until the buyer gets the vehicle registration in the mail.... or maybe dealers have the power to smudge the paper work they send to the DMV...:boink:
 
Just checked "excellent" trade-in values on kbb.com for my area.

'09 Limited 4x4 24k miles $29,050
'08 Limited 4x4 24k miles $28,675

'00 Limited 4x4 100k miles $7,575
'99 Limited 4x4 100k miles $7,275

I was surprised how little difference in price there was between a year's model.
 
Thanks everyone for their thoughts. I'm going to see how good a deal I can get on a 2010. If it's solid, I'll probably go for it.
 

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