2011 4Runner 4.0 4WD - fuel pump and filter question...

[rzgkane]

So it sounds like my daughter's boyfriend's 2011 4.0L with 190K died while driving tonight. Restarts and dies after a second or two of running so I know it has spark. I am assuming fuel pump. But what about fuel filter? Do these trucks have replaceable fuel filters? The usual parts houses (Rock, Partsgeek, even OEM websites) don't show a typical EFI fuel filter as an option. What gives?

I'm not with the truck so I can't crawl underneath and look. Any help is appreciated. I'll likely replace the pump in the driveway laying on my back. Uggh.

 

[Whippersnapper02]

The filter is an in tank sock so you have to access the pump to get to it.

 

[rzgkane]

The filter is an in tank sock so you have to access the pump to get to it.

Thank you. That's what I was figuring.

I don't get why every vehicle doesn't have a remote, inline fuel filter given what we see come out of them when we change them.

 

[Whippersnapper02]

Thank you. That's what I was figuring.

I don't get why every vehicle doesn't have a remote, inline fuel filter given what we see come out of them when we change them.

The same reason there's no transmission dipstick, no oil dipstick in some cars and no service manuals...people don't know how to do anything and they want you to come in for service.

 

[Bmnorm2]

“In tank” fuel filters that are part of the pump module are considered non serviceable and last for the life of the vehicle. Note there isn’t any mention of maintenance/replacement in the recommended service guide.

Unfortunately the definition of “life” for the owner may not match the manufacturer’s.

The point is, these filters aren’t meant to be changed every XX miles. While you have the module out, I recommend replacing the filter, pump, float, signal board, anything that wears or ages with time and exposure - so maybe the whole thing if another 190k miles is in its future.

 

[rzgkane]

“In tank” fuel filters that are part of the pump module are considered non serviceable and last for the life of the vehicle. Note there isn’t any mention of maintenance/replacement in the recommended service guide.

Unfortunately the definition of “life” for the owner may not match the manufacturer’s.

The point is, these filters aren’t meant to be changed every XX miles. While you have the module out, I recommend replacing the filter, pump, float, signal board, anything that wears or ages with time and exposure - so maybe the whole thing if another 190k miles is in its future.

I'm probably just replacing the entire pump/sender assembly. Verified this morning that it has spark but the parts (pump, oring, retainer ring removal tool) are $500 and I would love to verify no fuel pressure before spending the dough. Since there is no Schrader valve on the rail, is there another quick and dirty method to check for fuel pressure?

On a related note, what are the collective thoughts on just replacing the pump part of the assembly with a Bosch or Denso unit and reusing the rest of the sender assembly? Anyone done that?

 

[flyrv9]

Is there a CEL and codes to read that might help in determining what's wrong. Could be fuel related, but there are other things that can cause the same symptoms.

 

[Bmnorm2]

I'm probably just replacing the entire pump/sender assembly. Verified this morning that it has spark but the parts (pump, oring, retainer ring removal tool) are $500 and I would love to verify no fuel pressure before spending the dough. Since there is no Schrader valve on the rail, is there another quick and dirty method to check for fuel pressure?

On a related note, what are the collective thoughts on just replacing the pump part of the assembly with a Bosch or Denso unit and reusing the rest of the sender assembly? Anyone done that?

Can you hear the fuel pump hum when you turn to ignition? You might be able to rent a fuel pressure gauge kit from O'reillys. Pull an injector from the rail and run it (not a very safe idea...)

 

[ScoMey]

Ummmm… you might want to check to see if the fuel pump was already replaced under the big recall of them from a couple years back. If it wasn’t replaced, it might be a free-bee for you if that year was part of the recall. You can check the VIN on Toyota’s website…

 

[Jeremy556]

I'm probably just replacing the entire pump/sender assembly. Verified this morning that it has spark but the parts (pump, oring, retainer ring removal tool) are $500 and I would love to verify no fuel pressure before spending the dough. Since there is no Schrader valve on the rail, is there another quick and dirty method to check for fuel pressure?

On a related note, what are the collective thoughts on just replacing the pump part of the assembly with a Bosch or Denso unit and reusing the rest of the sender assembly? Anyone done that?

There are fuel hose quick connects right by the brake master cylinder. Pop the plastic covers off and open one up shortly after running the engine (with a rag to catch fuel). If fuel sprays out with force, you have pressure. Might as well check the FPR and see if there is any fuel in the vac hose.

I replaced just the fuel pump and re-used the rest of the in-tank assembly.

 

[Jeremy556]

Can you hear the fuel pump hum when you turn to ignition? You might be able to rent a fuel pressure gauge kit from O'reillys. Pull an injector from the rail and run it (not a very safe idea...)

The fuel pump doesn't run until you actually crank the engine on this vehicle, unfortunately.

 

[rzgkane]

Is there a CEL and codes to read that might help in determining what's wrong. Could be fuel related, but there are other things that can cause the same symptoms.

Nope. No codes. Just died. He was able to start it 2-3 times after it died, but it would just fire up and immediately die. Sounds like the residual fuel pressure allowed the engine to start but not run. Now it just cranks but won't ignite.

Plenty of spark. That rules out crank sensor, right?

 

[rzgkane]

There are fuel hose quick connects right by the brake master cylinder. Pop the plastic covers off and open one up shortly after running the engine (with a rag to catch fuel). If fuel sprays out with force, you have pressure. Might as well check the FPR and see if there is any fuel in the vac hose.

I replaced just the fuel pump and re-used the rest of the in-tank assembly.

Good tips. I've considered trying a few squirts of starting fluid as well, just to see if she'll fire up. But if it does, I guess I'm still going to have to figure out why no fuel. Pump, relay, fuse, ECM, yada yada yada.