2011 4runner: local mechanic used 5w30 for an oil change.

glocke12

New member
Been going to this guy for years for most of my vehicles...he isn't an idiot and does fairly good work.

For 2011 4runner i had been taking it to the dealer until i hit the 60k mark, and than for convenience took it to the local guy. Just got the bill from him and it says "7 qts 5w30". I thought the newer 4runners were supposed to use 0w20?
 
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Since when do these take 7 quarts? My 2008 only takes 5.5 quarts. As for oil weight, you'll be ok. It is slightly thicker oil but not drastic. My 2008 calls for 5w30. The OEMs have only switched to thinner oils like 0w20 as a measure to help with mpg.
 
The OEMs have only switched to thinner oils like 0w20 as a measure to help with mpg.

Not true. Toyota also switched to 0w20 due to the tighter tolerances in the newer engines. I recently sat in a training class on rebuilding and repairing the 3UR-FE and was told by a toyota training tech that any oil other than 0w20 will hurt a refreshed or new 3UR-FE as it will cause oil starvation issues in the main bearings.

Your 2011 probably has enough wear that the oil won't hurt it, but any tech who can read should know that even the oil cap states what the preferred oil is. I'd find a new mechanic.
 
Since when do these take 7 quarts? My 2008 only takes 5.5 quarts. As for oil weight, you'll be ok. It is slightly thicker oil but not drastic. My 2008 calls for 5w30. The OEMs have only switched to thinner oils like 0w20 as a measure to help with mpg.

The '08 1GR-FE in your 4Runner is of the Single VVTi flavor still installed in the current Tacoma and takes 5w-30 oil. The FJ Cruiser & 5th Gen 4Runners starting in '10 use an updated Dual VVTi 1GR-FE with a Canister Style filter that adds roughly an additional quart of oil capacity, these engines take a 0w-20 oil due to their VVTi systems and slightly tighter tolerances.

Not true. Toyota also switched to 0w20 due to the tighter tolerances in the newer engines. I recently sat in a training class on rebuilding and repairing the 3UR-FE and was told by a toyota training tech that any oil other than 0w20 will hurt a refreshed or new 3UR-FE as it will cause oil starvation issues in the main bearings.

Your 2011 probably has enough wear that the oil won't hurt it, but any tech who can read should know that even the oil cap states what the preferred oil is. I'd find a new mechanic.

This is actually mostly correct, the other big factor in the oil is that many of the engines Toyota now makes including the 3UR-FE utilize Dual VVTi. In the switch to a Dual VVTi system Toyota felt a 0w-20 is a better oil to use for its volume flow at a given viscocity.

What many people fail to realize is that it is not pressure that is as important in a modern VVTi system (or cylinder deactivation system) but rather oil volume. I can pressurize a 55 gallon drum to 50psi, or a syringe to 50 psi; they're both 50psi, but the rate at which oil will flow is much different. Think of it as voltage being pressure and current (amperage) being the volume. The VVTi needs both a certain pressure and a certain volume of oil to operate properly. Now factor in that the vehicle needs that volume of oil within a certain time frame or else it won't operate the VVTi accurately and properly. This is why Toyota switched from 5w-30 to 5w-20 in many of their engines and now they recommend only 0w-20 in most of their engines.

Toyota is far more forgiving with their oil specs than other manufactuers to complile specific additive properties in their oils for various needs and failing to meet their strict specifications can and often does damage the engine in the long (and sometimes short term.) For example I had a '10 used GL class Mercedes someone had put the wrong oil in and it threw VVTi codes and the engine ran horribly until we changed the oil. The Chrysler 6.2 Hemis take a different oil (I believe its like a 5w-40 or 15w-40? Something like that) that if you try to use 5w-30 like most Chrysler engines take it will not operate the cylinder deactivation lifter properly and the vehicle develops misfires and in some cases complete dead holes (due to the fact their system operates on oil volume to keep the primary lifter solid and allow the rods to run on the camshaft.)
[MENTION=59117]glocke12[/MENTION]

In short I would kindly inform the technician that he has put the wrong oil in your vehicle and that it needs to be changed to a 0w-20 oil as the Dual VVTi 1GR-FE in your 5th Gen 4Runner has a different oil requirement than the single VVTi 1GR-FE and it could cause issues with oil delivery and VVTi operation.
 
The '08 1GR-FE in your 4Runner is of the Single VVTi flavor still installed in the current Tacoma and takes 5w-30 oil. The FJ Cruiser & 5th Gen 4Runners starting in '10 use an updated Dual VVTi 1GR-FE with a Canister Style filter that adds roughly an additional quart of oil capacity, these engines take a 0w-20 oil due to their VVTi systems and slightly tighter tolerances.



This is actually mostly correct, the other big factor in the oil is that many of the engines Toyota now makes including the 3UR-FE utilize Dual VVTi. In the switch to a Dual VVTi system Toyota felt a 0w-20 is a better oil to use for its volume flow at a given viscocity.

What many people fail to realize is that it is not pressure that is as important in a modern VVTi system (or cylinder deactivation system) but rather oil volume. I can pressurize a 55 gallon drum to 50psi, or a syringe to 50 psi; they're both 50psi, but the rate at which oil will flow is much different. Think of it as voltage being pressure and current (amperage) being the volume. The VVTi needs both a certain pressure and a certain volume of oil to operate properly. Now factor in that the vehicle needs that volume of oil within a certain time frame or else it won't operate the VVTi accurately and properly. This is why Toyota switched from 5w-30 to 5w-20 in many of their engines and now they recommend only 0w-20 in most of their engines.

Toyota is far more forgiving with their oil specs than other manufactuers to complile specific additive properties in their oils for various needs and failing to meet their strict specifications can and often does damage the engine in the long (and sometimes short term.) For example I had a '10 used GL class Mercedes someone had put the wrong oil in and it threw VVTi codes and the engine ran horribly until we changed the oil. The Chrysler 6.2 Hemis take a different oil (I believe its like a 5w-40 or 15w-40? Something like that) that if you try to use 5w-30 like most Chrysler engines take it will not operate the cylinder deactivation lifter properly and the vehicle develops misfires and in some cases complete dead holes (due to the fact their system operates on oil volume to keep the primary lifter solid and allow the rods to run on the camshaft.)

[MENTION=59117]glocke12[/MENTION]

In short I would kindly inform the technician that he has put the wrong oil in your vehicle and that it needs to be changed to a 0w-20 oil as the Dual VVTi 1GR-FE in your 5th Gen 4Runner has a different oil requirement than the single VVTi 1GR-FE and it could cause issues with oil delivery and VVTi operation.

Learn something new everyday. Thanks. So which tolerances are tighter now?
 
Mainly things like journal bearing clearance due to the fact that synthetic oil molecules are typically smaller, but more importantly far more uniform in size. For example camshaft journal clearance in an '08 1GR-FE is maximum of .10mm (about .0039" ) while a '11 1GR-FE is .09mm (about .00354") which doesn't like much, but it can be a big deal.
 
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