2021 4Runner OEM LED Headlights/Lights Performance and Retrofit

[Saker]

I installed 2021 TRD pro Bi-LED headlights in my 2020 TRD pro. I tapped the blue LED actuator wire into the existing halogen high beam power and turned off the DRL function in the infotainment unit.

Interesting that the DRL can be functioned through the infotainment on the 2020 and up. The 2019 and below DRL are only via the turn signal stock as far as I'm aware.

20+ infotainment system, there is a selection to enable/disable (on/off) the function of the DRLs.
When enabled, you you still control them from the turn signal stalk.

19 and below, the only way to disable the DRL system, like what can be done in the 20+, is to bend the pins in the relay. That way the DRLs never come on.

 

[2021nightshade4x4]

I installed 2021 TRD pro Bi-LED headlights in my 2020 TRD pro. I tapped the blue LED actuator wire into the existing halogen high beam power and turned off the DRL function in the infotainment unit.

How do the highs perform now?


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[mynameistory]

I installed 2021 TRD pro Bi-LED headlights in my 2020 TRD pro. I tapped the blue LED actuator wire into the existing halogen high beam power and turned off the DRL function in the infotainment unit.

Hang on. If your existing truck high-beam wiring was retained (old halogen style), then you should have been able to attach to the 9005 bulbs directly and retain your DRL function. The new headlights have no changes to the 9005 reflectors, just the wiring/control going out to them changes for the 2021 Pro/Limited. Unless the wiring connectors at the lights have changed due to them being 6V in series?

Depending on the power needed by the new projector shutter, you may be able to tap off a high-beam circuit using an add-a-fuse in order to activate those at the same time.

 

[southbayh2oman]

How do the highs perform now?


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To me, the LED high beam does not carry as far as the halogens. The color is different (yellowish with halogen, cleaner less intense white with LED).

 

[southbayh2oman]

Hang on. If your existing truck high-beam wiring was retained (old halogen style), then you should have been able to attach to the 9005 bulbs directly and retain your DRL function. The new headlights have no changes to the 9005 reflectors, just the wiring/control going out to them changes for the 2021 Pro/Limited. Unless the wiring connectors at the lights have changed due to them being 6V in series?

Depending on the power needed by the new projector shutter, you may be able to tap off a high-beam circuit using an add-a-fuse in order to activate those at the same time.

My 2020 TRD Pro only have two wires going to the 9005 bulbs, positive and ground. I tested the output at the high beam circuit at the fuse box but both the drl and high beam fun through the same circuit so there was no difference if I tapped in at the high beam circuit or at the 9005 for power to the Bi-LED actuator.

I was looking at a lighting diagram of the 4runners but I could not trace back to were I could isolate the high beam from the DRL.

I asked Caeser at Lightwerkz if the power needs for the actuator would require dedicated power and he felt the power requirement was minimal and wasn't necessary.

Torey, I am located in Redondo Beach also you stop by and see how I set the headlights.

 

[2021nightshade4x4]

To me, the LED high beam does not carry as far as the halogens. The color is different (yellowish with halogen, cleaner less intense white with LED).

I’d have to agree the same with other makes who have tried that, too (Land Rover). They knew their xenon’s were cool for low beams but simply raising the shield didn’t “wow” as expected.

I feel like tapping that wire to get both beams is one of potentially many things we can do to our 4Runners to get them to perform as luxury vehicles of much higher MSRP do. Giving us an even better value for our money spent on them.

Bravo and I can’t wait to try this mod myself.


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[uh0h50]

It would be awesome to figure out a way to retain the DRL function, but also turn them into high beams in conjunction with the OEM bi-LED projectors.

Here is the rear of the new housings. The bigger issue is that the bi-LED projector headlights utilize a different pin connector. Obviously these won't connect to the older 2020 and below 4Runners.

 

[southbayh2oman]

It would be awesome to figure out a way to retain the DRL function, but also turn them into high beams in conjunction with the OEM bi-LED projectors.

Here is the rear of the new housings. The bigger issue is that the bi-LED projector headlights utilize a 3 pin connector. Obviously these won't connect to the older 2020 and below 4Runners.

I connected the red and black wires to the old connectors and stripped back the wire on the blue wire and added a separate segment of wire to make the connection. I didn't want to cut off the original pin connector.

 

[uh0h50]

I connected the red and black wires to the old connectors and stripped back the wire on the blue wire and added a separate segment of wire to make the connection. I didn't want to cut off the original pin connector.

Sorry, am dumb.

If I'm understanding correctly, basically you removed the newer style pigtail of the projectors on the headlight side. Then you utilized the older style pigtail onto the LED headlights. When you stripped back the wire on the blue wire and added the separate segment of wire to make the connection, where exactly did you connect the blue wire to?

 

[southbayh2oman]

There is a youtube video showing how to disassemble the connectors. I had to switch the orientation of the wires due to the polarity. The blue wire I tapped into the high beam power off the 9005 bulb. But as was previously mentioned, I did it this way but needed to turn off the drl function in the infotainment unit which is available for 2020 and up. Because you have a 2016, you will need to turn off drl off the stalk or disable the drl function by bending the pin in the drl relay. Unless you can find another way to tap into the high beam only output, you will need to consider these options.

 

[uh0h50]

There is a youtube video showing how to disassemble the connectors. I had to switch the orientation of the wires due to the polarity. The blue wire I tapped into the high beam power off the 9005 bulb. But as was previously mentioned, I did it this way but needed to turn off the drl function in the infotainment unit which is available for 2020 and up. Because you have a 2016, you will need to turn off drl off the stalk or disable the drl function by bending the pin in the drl relay. Unless you can find another way to tap into the high beam only output, you will need to consider these options.

Got it. Hopefully someone finds a solution to retain the DRL for when the high beam is not needed.

It sounds like the blue wire only powers the high beam shutter in the LED projector. So in theory, there really is no need to have that blue wire tapped into anything if I don't exactly NEED the LED high beam. And from the sounds of it, the LED high beams are lackluster anyway. By forgoing the blue wire, I would be able to retain my stock halogen DRL and still use it as my high beam (similar to how the single beam/low beam only LED projectors function).

to our guru [MENTION=208721]mynameistory[/MENTION], does this sound feasible?

 

[2021nightshade4x4]

I installed 2021 TRD pro Bi-LED headlights in my 2020 TRD pro. I tapped the blue LED actuator wire into the existing halogen high beam power and turned off the DRL function in the infotainment unit.

@%1; this is the thread (and post) you need regarding the high beams


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[mynameistory]

My 2020 TRD Pro only have two wires going to the 9005 bulbs, positive and ground. I tested the output at the high beam circuit at the fuse box but both the drl and high beam fun through the same circuit so there was no difference if I tapped in at the high beam circuit or at the 9005 for power to the Bi-LED actuator.

I was looking at a lighting diagram of the 4runners but I could not trace back to were I could isolate the high beam from the DRL.

I asked Caeser at Lightwerkz if the power needs for the actuator would require dedicated power and he felt the power requirement was minimal and wasn't necessary.

Torey, I am located in Redondo Beach also you stop by and see how I set the headlights.

I'm actually working on this- a way to isolate the high-beam signal from the DRL (pwm voltage). I have a set of driving lights that are tapped into the high beam circuit, but the relay will buzz in DRL mode if I forget to turn off the switch. I've been back-burnering it for a while but maybe I'll work on it soon.

PWM filter- Auxiliary high-beam tap to relay, lights flickering in DRL mode | Toyota 4Runner Forum [4Runners.com]

 

[mynameistory]

Got it. Hopefully someone finds a solution to retain the DRL for when the high beam is not needed.

It sounds like the blue wire only powers the high beam shutter in the LED projector. So in theory, there really is no need to have that blue wire tapped into anything if I don't exactly NEED the LED high beam. And from the sounds of it, the LED high beams are lackluster anyway. By forgoing the blue wire, I would be able to retain my stock halogen DRL and still use it as my high beam (similar to how the single beam/low beam only LED projectors function).

to our guru [MENTION=208721]mynameistory[/MENTION], does this sound feasible?

Me no guru, but to me it sounds entirely plausible that you'd be able to ignore the shutter high-beam entirely by not plumbing a connection to the blue wire into the truck-side connector. The 9005s in the reflectors will connect to your factory DRL/high-beam wiring.

You do have me thinking now though, maybe I'd be able to get ahold of some Pro headlights and then do a filtered add-a-fuse to the shutters. That way you'd have factory halogen DRL AND high beams AND LED shutter high-beams. And the pros do seem to come up more often for sale, probably due to overland-size budgets from their owners.

 

[uh0h50]

Me no guru, but to me it sounds entirely plausible that you'd be able to ignore the shutter high-beam entirely by not plumbing a connection to the blue wire into the truck-side connector. The 9005s in the reflectors will connect to your factory DRL/high-beam wiring.

You do have me thinking now though, maybe I'd be able to get ahold of some Pro headlights and then do a filtered add-a-fuse to the shutters. That way you'd have factory halogen DRL AND high beams AND LED shutter high-beams. And the pros do seem to come up more often for sale, probably due to overland-size budgets from their owners.

Sounds good. Ideally that's what I'd like to achieve, as I'm sure many others down the line who get their hands on the OEM bi-LED headlamps. Looking forward to seeing what you or others may come up with for this solution.

 

[mynameistory]

Sounds good. Ideally that's what I'd like to achieve, as I'm sure many others down the line who get their hands on the OEM bi-LED headlamps. Looking forward to seeing what you or others may come up with for this solution.

Fuse 15 and 16 in the engine bay are the high beam fuses (left and right, 10A each).

Depending on how many watts it takes to keep the shutters open, it should be easy to do an add-a-fuse. I have one that triggers the relays on my SS3 auxillary driving beams.

 

[ElectroBoy]

I'm actually working on this- a way to isolate the high-beam signal from the DRL (pwm voltage). I have a set of driving lights that are tapped into the high beam circuit, but the relay will buzz in DRL mode if I forget to turn off the switch. I've been back-burnering it for a while but maybe I'll work on it soon.

PWM filter- Auxiliary high-beam tap to relay, lights flickering in DRL mode | Toyota 4Runner Forum [4Runners.com]

Tory, are you tapping off one of the wires (left or right) at a high beam headlight bulb to trigger the relay for your auxiliary high beams?
If so, instead of trying to filter out the PCM waveform you could try to tap into the actual signal from the Main Body ECU that directly controls the DRL Relay. The DRL Relay switches either the +12V or the PCM waveform to the high beams.

If you look at the pre-Aug 2019 headlight wiring diagram it looks like the DIM output (connector 2D pin 24, pink wire) from the MB ECU is the one that controls the switching. You could try driving your relay from the DIM. You’d have to test it to see if it’s a high signal or driven to ground. It may be worth checking out.

 

[mynameistory]

Tory, are you tapping off one of the wires (left or right) at a high beam headlight bulb to trigger the relay for your auxiliary high beams?
If so, instead of trying to filter out the PCM waveform you could try to tap into the actual signal from the Main Body ECU that directly controls the DRL Relay. The DRL Relay switches either the +12V or the PCM waveform to the high beams.

If you look at the pre-Aug 2019 headlight wiring diagram it looks like the DIM output (connector 2D pin 24, pink wire) from the MB ECU is the one that controls the switching. You could try driving your relay from the DIM. You’d have to test it to see if it’s a high signal or driven to ground. It may be worth checking out.

Not the wire but yes, at the HB fuse. I'm not sure if I'm adventurous enough to dig around in the ECU or vampire tap an output nearby. I like my stuff easily reversible just in case...

 

[uh0h50]

Successfully installed the 2022 OEM bi-LED headlamps onto my 2016. I am not utilizing the high beam function of the bi-LED projector and am using the OEM halogen reflector (Nokya hyper yellow bulbs). Best of both worlds IMO.

Really happy with the output of these LED headlamps. Easy mod. 10/10 would recommend.

 

[numbay]

I need a set! Anyone selling?

Please let me know if you have a set you want to sell. I have a 2020 ORP, looking to upgrade to factory LED, preferably form 2022. I am close to Everett WA.