231mm Brake Saga Continues, pulls to RH

[Ride_Red]

So now I'm in my 5th month of having the 231mm brake upgrade and for the life of me and my mechanic we could not get the proper brake peddle feel for the upgrade. It would hit the floor, then if you pump it, it would then build pressure. It was drivable but it was not right.

~At first he thought it was the ABS module. I told him it felt like air.
~2nd time he said it could be the ABS assist. I told him it feels like air again.
~3rd time took it to Meineke and they said after 4-hours we can't do it because we don't have an ABS bleeder. Thanks you idiots!
~4th found another shop that said it could be rear brake adjustment and then hooked it up to an ABS bleeder and BOOM! The brake peddle finally felt better!

But wait, now when you hit the brakes hard, soft , whatever, it jerks to the right and sometimes it corrects itself.........WTF, now what! It happens 75% of the time when you hit the brakes.

I just had it aligned the other day and wheels balanced.
They think it's either the calipers or possible the brake hoses.......any thoughts?


Good thing this is not a DD

Front:
Napa: calipers/rotors/pads

Rear:
Generic new shoes

 

[Singtoe]

Sounds like yur ABS pump is crapping out. N my oppion, when you step on the brake, the abs system is only letting fluid get to one set of brakes.

This is what gives you the hard pulling to one side.

 

[LittleCaesar]

ABS light on?

I had a caliper seize that held the pads to the rotor, but since yours are new, I can't put any credit to that idea.

To put Singtoe's theory to light, pull the ABS fuse and bleed the brakes once again to see if you can attain a problem free brake experience.

 

[Ride_Red]

ABS light on?

I had a caliper seize that held the pads to the rotor, but since yours are new, I can't put any credit to that idea.

To put Singtoe's theory to light, pull the ABS fuse and bleed the brakes once again to see if you can attain a problem free brake experience.

Pulled the ABS fuse or should I say, ripped it out. Was that thing even suppose to come out? Half of it still remains in the fuse box.

Anyway, ABS light came on aand no change. It still twitches to the right then quickly corrects itself?

Here is a piece of the 60A fuse

 

[Gerdo]

The ABS fuse has a couple of bolts holding it into the fusebox. You have to pull the fusebox apart (there are a few tabs that hold it together).

*disconnect the battery first*

 

[LittleCaesar]

There is a 8mm bolt holding that thing in but not anymore. A replacement though is $12.

When I removed my fuse to correct my ABS modulator problem (back valve was sticking), I did not remove the negative battery cable but it is a good first step.

Bleed the brakes again, and see what results you obtain. By pulling the fuse, it puts the ABS into shutdown mode and if the problem persists, then you can look at the problem as a possible bad brake line, caliper piston, etc.

For future reference:http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/93048-abs-fuse-replacement.html

 

[yukonrider]

This happened to mine. Two pistons on one caliper were frozen. I would highly doubt it is the ABS unit.

Take the caliper off, try to push the pistons back, if they don't go back fairly easy then the are most likely frozen. Buy a rebuild kit (they're like 15 bucks I have one i can sell you.) Sometimes you might need to stick a new piston in there. Did you get the calipers new, or used?

 

[Ride_Red]

This happened to mine. Two pistons on one caliper were frozen. I would highly doubt it is the ABS unit.

Take the caliper off, try to push the pistons back, if they don't go back fairly easy then the are most likely frozen. Buy a rebuild kit (they're like 15 bucks I have one i can sell you.) Sometimes you might need to stick a new piston in there. Did you get the calipers new, or used?

Rebuilt '05 Tundra calipers from NAPA. They have a warranty, I already have another set waiting if the the re-bleeding does not work.

Thanks!