24F AGM vs 27F Conventional

[gimlithepirate]

Looking to do my battery soon. Seems to be working great at the moment, but date wise I need to start looking.

Anyone have opinions to offer on 24F AGM vs 27F conventional? I'd get a 27F AGM, but since I don't have a Sam's membership all the ones I'm finding are pricey. I was just going to get the Costco 24F AGM but it looks like those are "no longer in stock or available to order"...

 

[phatcheeks]

I run a 24f conventional Duralast Gold. Works fine. I think my last one was the same. Cant remember but it lasted like 6 years.

 

[ktom3001]

This one looked really interesting when I bought my battery but I cheeped out and got the Costco Interstate cold weather battery 27

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4 year warranty is impressive

 

[mcaninch35]

I went with the X2Power 24F AGM from Batteries Plus. 840 CCA, 76 AH capacity. Have only had it a couple months, but have run my winch off of it a couple times with no issues. I thought it was a good compromise between weight and capacity. Little expensive, but they do rebates and % off deals pretty regularly if you watch for them. Same as a Northstar battery I believe.

 

[gimlithepirate]

This one looked really interesting when I bought my battery but I cheeped out and got the Costco Interstate cold weather battery 27

Verify your identity


4 year warranty is impressive

That's exactly what I'm looking at doing (cheaping out with the cold weather 27F).

I wish I could get the Duracel 31M at Sam's for 185$. That would almost be worth trying to get a trial membership or something there, but then a warranty claim would be difficult.

 

[ktom3001]

That's exactly what I'm looking at doing (cheaping out with the cold weather 27F).

I wish I could get the Duracel 31M at Sam's for 185$. That would almost be worth trying to get a trial membership or something there, but then a warranty claim would be difficult.

The Walmart AGM battery is $140 ish and says 5 year replacement. Hard to beat that.

 

[gimlithepirate]

The Walmart AGM battery is $140 ish and says 5 year replacement. Hard to beat that.

Huh. Looking at the Amp Hours, that's enough to run a fridge overnight, which is about all I would need.... Would be nice if it's bigger, but that's why the 31Ms are so expensive.

 

[4RunnerAquasport]

For those of you who are looking for an AGM, remember that most need an absorption voltage of 13.8 to 14.8. The 4Runner system will not provide that much voltage. I'm not sure if the newer 5th gens are rated for this, but I know my 2012 is not.

Your AGM battery will work fine for the short term but after a couple years it will not be conditioned properly and you may lose some time on the back end of its life. They're way too expensive to give up any time on them. I'm not sure if they're warranty would stipulate if you have the proper charging system or not, but I didn't want to be on a long trip and have an issue. Walmart/Sams would probably replace it anyway, regardless of what charging system you have.

Putting an alternator voltage booster in the 4Runner or making sure you have an AGM rated home charger, or both, to keep it healthy is something to consider.

I bought an X2 AGM years ago and started to notice it wasn't always at a decent charge after sitting over night. After checking the spec sheet on the battery, I noticed it called for that higher charge rate for absorption.

After doing some research I went with a new AGM rated charger and topped it off every couple weeks. My batteries sit for weeks at a time while I'm working on the road which is not a healthy condition.

After a few months, I installed this AVB from Dirty Parts to make sure on long trips the battery is staying healthy. There is another AVB out there by Arclightleds, but it's $30 more.

 

[cwilliams563]

Sub’d. I’ll be in the same boat soon. My battery from Toyota is only 2 years old but will be getting a winch and the std. 550CCA won’t be enough.

It would be nice to have a bigger battery as well. Will look into the voltage booster in the meantime. Thank you for the info [MENTION=119302]4RunnerAquasport[/MENTION]

 

[gimlithepirate]

For those of you who are looking for an AGM, remember that most need an absorption voltage of 13.8 to 14.8. The 4Runner system will not provide that much voltage. I'm not sure if the newer 5th gens are rated for this, but I know my 2012 is not.

Your AGM battery will work fine for the short term but after a couple years it will not be conditioned properly and you may lose some time on the back end of its life. They're way too expensive to give up any time on them. I'm not sure if they're warranty would stipulate if you have the proper charging system or not, but I didn't want to be on a long trip and have an issue. Walmart/Sams would probably replace it anyway, regardless of what charging system you have.

Putting an alternator voltage booster in the 4Runner or making sure you have an AGM rated home charger, or both, to keep it healthy is something to consider.

I bought an X2 AGM years ago and started to notice it wasn't always at a decent charge after sitting over night. After checking the spec sheet on the battery, I noticed it called for that higher charge rate for absorption.

After doing some research I went with a new AGM rated charger and topped it off every couple weeks. My batteries sit for weeks at a time while I'm working on the road which is not a healthy condition.

After a few months, I installed this AVB from Dirty Parts to make sure on long trips the battery is staying healthy. There is another AVB out there by Arclightleds, but it's $30 more.

Important point. My plan was to put in the diode fuse intended to rectify this issue if I grabbed an AGM battery.

The other option I've considered is sticking with a bigger starting battery and then just putting in a dual battery system if it proves insufficient. Just seems like overkill. A big AGM would be perfect since the only thing I'm likely to run off it is a fridge.

 

[4RunnerAquasport]

Important point. My plan was to put in the diode fuse intended to rectify this issue if I grabbed an AGM battery.

The other option I've considered is sticking with a bigger starting battery and then just putting in a dual battery system if it proves insufficient. Just seems like overkill. A big AGM would be perfect since the only thing I'm likely to run off it is a fridge.

Yea I've got dual AGMs in my 5th gen and it may be overkill. I wanted the ability to have extended trips and not worry about it. The other thing with duals is you have more amperage for a winch. The biggest selling point for the AGM, was it's more suited to bouncing around off road.

The only draw back of doing just the diode mod for the increased voltage, was that you eliminate the 7.5 amp fuse in that circuit, because it is not a fuse, just a diode that fits in that slot with some modification. Highly unlikely that you would have an issue, but the chance is there I guess. The GM diode is less than $10, so it's worth a shot if your budget is tight.

 

[gimlithepirate]

Huh, so this is interesting:
Duracell Ultra Dual Purpose (Starting/Cycling) Battery for Deep Cycle BCI Group 31M Marine and Boat - SLI31MDP at Batteries Plus Bulbs

It's lead acid not AGM, but it is a dual purpose deep cycle battery. Downsides are you don't get the durability of AGM, and the battery terminal placement isn't centered like the X2, which could make figuring out wiring a challenge...

 

[riceandpho]

im testing one of those voltage booster, im using the HKB one, also i have a mechman high output 240 amp alternator. so far my voltage is staying in the high 14.6 on the scangauge, 14.72 or so on my fluke 175.
no booster i was at 14.1 to 14.0 on the scangauge and 14.25 on the fluke.
this is dual 31 agm and big 3 wiring with 1 gauge ofc knukonceptz wire.

For those of you who are looking for an AGM, remember that most need an absorption voltage of 13.8 to 14.8. The 4Runner system will not provide that much voltage. I'm not sure if the newer 5th gens are rated for this, but I know my 2012 is not.

Your AGM battery will work fine for the short term but after a couple years it will not be conditioned properly and you may lose some time on the back end of its life. They're way too expensive to give up any time on them. I'm not sure if they're warranty would stipulate if you have the proper charging system or not, but I didn't want to be on a long trip and have an issue. Walmart/Sams would probably replace it anyway, regardless of what charging system you have.

Putting an alternator voltage booster in the 4Runner or making sure you have an AGM rated home charger, or both, to keep it healthy is something to consider.

I bought an X2 AGM years ago and started to notice it wasn't always at a decent charge after sitting over night. After checking the spec sheet on the battery, I noticed it called for that higher charge rate for absorption.

After doing some research I went with a new AGM rated charger and topped it off every couple weeks. My batteries sit for weeks at a time while I'm working on the road which is not a healthy condition.

After a few months, I installed this AVB from Dirty Parts to make sure on long trips the battery is staying healthy. There is another AVB out there by Arclightleds, but it's $30 more.

 

[riceandpho]

put the biggest one , a group 31 agm will work. yes itll cost close to 400, be over then under.
shop at batteriesplus, get the x2 power, do online order, use coupon code and store pick up, there is always a good discount code some where, maintain your battery too with a good charger. i top mines off every other 2 weeks, my truck is only driven for 8 miles a day and itll sit at the lot for 13 hours, i also have a dual battery setup and high output alternator.

Looking to do my battery soon. Seems to be working great at the moment, but date wise I need to start looking.

Anyone have opinions to offer on 24F AGM vs 27F conventional? I'd get a 27F AGM, but since I don't have a Sam's membership all the ones I'm finding are pricey. I was just going to get the Costco 24F AGM but it looks like those are "no longer in stock or available to order"...

 

[4RunnerAquasport]

im testing one of those voltage booster, im using the HKB one, also i have a mechman high output 240 amp alternator. so far my voltage is staying in the high 14.6 on the scangauge, 14.72 or so on my fluke 175.
no booster i was at 14.1 to 14.0 on the scangauge and 14.25 on the fluke.
this is dual 31 agm and big 3 wiring with 1 gauge ofc knukonceptz wire.

I forgot about the HKB. I remember it from a few years ago in one of these threads. Australian isn't it?
I bought an Arclight, but haven't installed it yet.
Keep us posted on how the HKB does.
I've been wanting a 240 amp alt, but haven't pulled the trigger. I had one of the bumper to bumper ones but it didn't last.
Replaced it with an Ultima oem spec that has been holding up for a few years now. Kept the original for an emergency back up that I take on long trips. Looked at a DC but they are stupid expensive for that extra 30 amps.
How long you been running the mechman?

 

[gimlithepirate]

put the biggest one , a group 31 agm will work. yes itll cost close to 400, be over then under.
shop at batteriesplus, get the x2 power, do online order, use coupon code and store pick up, there is always a good discount code some where, maintain your battery too with a good charger. i top mines off every other 2 weeks, my truck is only driven for 8 miles a day and itll sit at the lot for 13 hours, i also have a dual battery setup and high output alternator.

I guess I'm wondering if the Group 31 battery is worth the premium/weight/mess with it given my use case.

Why would you go with an AGM deep cycle over a flooded dual purpose deep cycle?

Again, about the only thing running off the battery over night is going to be a fridge/thermoelectric cooler.

 

[riceandpho]

bought my mechman at 7/30/2015, got it in mid august
brush failed at 11/18/2017
sent it in for repair and they fixed it due to no abuse and close to warranty window.
sent in at a few days later around thanksgiving week.
fast shipping since i fedex it, also helps when i use my employee discount, costed me 25 bucks for it to overnight to 3 days i think.
repair was done around 11/20/2017
now its working fine so far, no issues.

the hkb fuse diode all in one is working fine for me, only have it for 2 days nows, still my voltage in the high 14.6 shown on scangauge. i dont think i really need the extra boost.

i also have the ultima, the oriley auto store brand as a back up, had to buy it since i did not want to use a rental car and also the rental car was expensive for a week, also at that time the stock denso alternator died on me, you hear that noise. returned the rental car in like 2 days, high output alternator was not ready till mid august.

I forgot about the HKB. I remember it from a few years ago in one of these threads. Australian isn't it?
I bought an Arclight, but haven't installed it yet.
Keep us posted on how the HKB does.
I've been wanting a 240 amp alt, but haven't pulled the trigger. I had one of the bumper to bumper ones but it didn't last.
Replaced it with an Ultima oem spec that has been holding up for a few years now. Kept the original for an emergency back up that I take on long trips. Looked at a DC but they are stupid expensive for that extra 30 amps.
How long you been running the mechman?

 

[riceandpho]

for my needs, i have a decent stereo, i have 3 amps and always played loud, i guess you can say full tilt, those long bass notes and when your at traffic, alternators dont really give good voltage below idle. my voltage stayed at 12.4 the lowest it dipped, i got about or over 1100 watts rms just going to the mids and tweeter alone.

although i dont really play that loud anymore, i am still able to do it with no issue.

I guess I'm wondering if the Group 31 battery is worth the premium/weight/mess with it given my use case.

Why would you go with an AGM deep cycle over a flooded dual purpose deep cycle?

Again, about the only thing running off the battery over night is going to be a fridge/thermoelectric cooler.