1999 4WD rear driveshaft replacement Tom Woods

[Doc3g]

Has anyone ordered a rear drive shaft for a 99' or similar from Tom Woods?

I had a 3' Toytech lift several years ago and never had issues but lately I've had some bad rumbling at highway speeds and the typical "clunk" that says it's time to replace ujoints. When I checked I found that the rear ujoint was busted.

The original driveshaft has over 350K miles, so I am considering just replacing the whole shaft, especially after looking at Tim's Ujoint replacement video and getting the general feeling that DIY is less-than-straight forward.

A parts search for an OEM replacement shows that the OEM driveshaft is discontinued (using part # 37110-3D300). I've found a couple sites claiming to still have them, but wanting ~ $700. A Cardone from RockAuto was in the ~ $500.

I've found several posts that seem to indicate the best option for a replacement is Tom Woods. Prices seem good, but the options are bit confusing for me, TBH.

I would appreciate some input on anyone who has purchased from them in the past. It seems my options include:
1) conventional shaft
2) Double Cardan shaft
3) 1350 series Double Cardan

Within each of these choices, there are several other options to choose from:
a) Flange pattern at transfer case
b) flange patter at differential
c) greaseable vs non
d) Tube Wall Thickness

Would appreciate any input, thanks!

 

[2TH4IST]

I'm in the same boat, as I've already replace the rear ujoint and the front of the double joint are a bit gritty. I'll be ordering one next pay period.

I'd stick with double cardin joints, you'll need to measure your bolt pattern as toyota has many options across the years. As well as length.

As for tube thickness, it's up to you. What do you use the truck for? Smash your drive shaft into rocks? Go thick wall.

1350 are big joints and I think require different flanges at the tcase and diff. 1310 are standard on his regular driveshafts.

 

[Doc3g]

Thanks for the info. I mostly drive pavement (ok, so, I always drive pavement thanks to 80 hr work weeks, lol) so I got the .083. Triple-measured the flange patterns. They came out to 60x60 at the differential and 66x66 at the transfer case. Flange to flange length was 48.5". With tax, it was just a hair under $550.

I'm sure I could have spent an afternoon w/ busted knuckles and swapped out the rear Ujoint, but that double cardan has 350K miles on it so it was probably contributing to the rattle as well.

 

[toverturf]

I've been looking at getting a Tom Woods driveshaft also. You'll have to let us know how it is once you get it installed.

 

[3bears]

I too have looked into his driveshafts for a previous rig. was thinking....if I need one and its not my daily driver....just send him the old one and say....i need one of these

 

[Ponce11]

The u-joint on my driveshaft wore out and I was getting the clunk while stopping/accelerating and a lot of vibration at 35-65mph.

I replaced it with a Tom Woods shaft and been running it for around 4 years with absolutely zero issues. I grease all of the zerk fittings at every oil change and it's smooth as butter.

It took me about an hour to install, it would have been quicker but rusty/seized bolts slowed the install.

I highly recommend a Tom Woods Shaft.