2inch lift < $50; Pics

[hodgepodge79]

Over the weekend I finished the install of my 2-inch lift.
The old u-bolts were a pain to get off, one broke. After removal, and lowering of the axel, I was able to slip the 2-inch blocks ($18) under the leafs, aligning the nubs with the holes both top and bottom.
I soon realized that there were a few problems.
1) The path of the parking-brake cable used to go over the leafs, now it is too tight, so I tried going under. Not much better. I drilled a new hole approx. 3/8" under the original and installed the bracket and clevis-pin with cotter-pin.

2) The guide bracket for the cable going to the driver side still kept the cable pretty high. I simply bent it down until it looked good.

3) The pivoting bracket (above and right of the diff) was such that the cable to the left was on bottom and the cable to the right was on top. Since the distance to the right is so much shorter, there was not space for the cable to get beneath the leafs as good. I flipped it over as well as re-attached it under the bracket on the axle and spaced it down a bit more with a washer.

4) To keep the load sensing Brake Proportioning valve proper, I drilled some holes in a piece of Al flat bar to move the it up 2 inches.

 

[hodgepodge79]

I also installed all new 1/2" U-bolts ($31) Each measured 2.5" inside width, and 8" legs.

Cranking the torsion bars about 12 full turns (of the adjusting bolt) each brought the front up to match. A full 1.875" more clearance under the front cross-member, and 2.125" under the rear bumper. I can tell that the ride is slightly more stiff, but not bad at all. It is all well worth it for the few $$'s that went into it.

 

[ThatsBlasphemy]

very impressive.

 

[cornbreadlion]

Nice. I did the same, but with 1 ton helper leaves in the back. The ride went from bad ( too soft worn out springs) to a little better but still bad ( stiff as hell but doesn't bottom out anymore). The extra 2inches really helps get vitals like t-case and gas tank out of harms way, but I my RTI score dropped like 100 points

 

[obex26]

take your torsion bars back out. jack the front of the truck up to ride height and then slide the torsion bars back in. this will give a softer ride and a little flex back to the front.

now for the drawbacks to cranking torsion bars.

first you have just shortened the lifespan of your cv joints and the boots. second the bushings and i mean all of them from ball joints, to arm bolts, even the stabilizing bar no positive result to this situation. on top of this you may also have negative camber since you did not re align the front end after trying to raise the front.

I did the same thing to a pathfinder i had years ago. I even bought aftermarket torsion bars they were 2 times as think but well worth the investment i got rid of my front end squat.

 

[markdifferent]

nice job, could you maybe show me in pics exactly what you did to the front end, i would love to do this, and am going to search out the blocks tomorrow thanks.

 

[obex26]

nice job, could you maybe show me in pics exactly what you did to the front end, i would love to do this, and am going to search out the blocks tomorrow thanks.

I will save you some time searching. you can not do this mod on your 1990 4runner. your rear end is a 5 link coil sprung rear.

 

[hodgepodge79]

Update

I recently fabbed up some 1" aluminum bj spacers, so I let the torsion bars back out. Much better ride!
Although, if I did not have the spacers, I would have left the t-bars cranked, it was just bearable.

 

[fourwd1]

... but I my RTI score dropped like 100 points

Yeah, just another downside of cranking t-bars.

What you gain in one direction (height) you loose in the opposite direction (less articulation).

You can't get something for nothing. :bigok: