2nd gen 4runner with 3.4 S/C swap, starting issue

[QuinnJ86]

Hello all,

I'm stumped as to what the problem could be and don't want to start buying parts that aren't the problem.

Truck specs:
1990 4runner chassis
2000 3.4L 5vz Taco engine
2000 3.4L Tundra Manual 4x2 ECM (OEM#896610C010)
TRD Supercharger
URD 7th injector kit (IK22 plugs .043 gap, and Walbro fuel pump)
Prosport gauges: boost, EGT, wideband, fuel, and oil pressure

The truck ran fine with the 3.4 S/C engine, I drove it back from Oregon with no problems about 1500 miles in November 2017. Jump forward to now, I finally had money to buy the 7th injector kit. The install was easy, followed the instructions to the T.

I test drove it for about 100 miles around town no problems. Yesterday, I went snowboarding about 100 miles away from home, made it there with no problems all the gauges were reading good. At the end of the day, after driving 1/4 mile the truck suddenly died. Truck was still on but the engine was off, gave it few turns and it wont start. With the key to the ON position my fuel gauge was reading normal, so its safe to say that its not a fuel issue.

I then notice when turning the car to the ON position the CEL doesnt turn on; so I check all my fuses. The fuses were all good, the starter relay also clicks, when turning the key to start. I take apart the coil packs and test for spark, no spark. No ECM codes are showing either. I plug in my OBD scanner to see some specs and it wont link to the vehicle, it powers up but wont read.

Could this be a bad ECM problem?

 

[QuinnJ86]

UPDATE:

Starter relay and Circuit Open Relay click when turning key.

 

[RAD4Runner]

...gave it few turns and it wont start.

You mean the engine turned, but you did not get combustion?
If starter relay clicks, then starter motor should turn.

Checked absolutely all connections between battery, starter starter solenoid, fuse block, etc and not just the cliched "checked grounds"? Are they all tight clean, bare, shiny metal?

 

[QuinnJ86]

Somewhat solved!

I checked all my connections, fuses, grounds, splices. All we're good. It's now narrowed down to a faulty kill switch that's wired to me EFI relay or the EFI relay is going out.

 

[RAD4Runner]

Somewhat solved!

I checked all my connections, fuses, grounds, splices. All we're good. It's now narrowed down to a faulty kill switch that's wired to me EFI relay or the EFI relay is going out.

Good! A $6 multimeter from harbor freight can eaily check that.

 

[QuinnJ86]

So im back it again.

I bypassed my kill switch to ensure that it wasnt faulty or a short in the wiring and I also replaced the EFI relay.

I started my truck in the drive way, let it run for 15 mins and shut it off; waited 10 mins and now it wont start. Still no CEL when turning the key to the RUN position.

Gadget had me test my red (power) wire coming from the AIC box while the key is in the RUN position and im only getting 1.0 volts.

However it seems when I disconnect my negative battery cable from the battery and let it sit for awhile, the truck will start again. The problem only starting after installing the 7th injector kit.

Ive read other people having issues a few years back but they never updated their thread with a fix.

 

[QuinnJ86]

Checked Plug D pin 23 white/red stripe wire (B+) getting 11.6 volts with the key in the ON position.