2nd opinion on mechanic advice

[TLGG]

I took my truck into the shop to have it looked at because there was a squeaking noise coming from the front-driver side strut area. This is most likely a symptom of me going a little too fast over a railroad crossing a week earlier. My truck is lifted so I took it to a place the specializes in that kind of stuff. The mechanic took a look at it and pointed out my tires had excessive wear because the alignment was off - the alignment being off because my coil springs were heavily rusted and my sway bar end links needed to be replaced. He recommended new quick struts in the front, rear shocks for the back (ultimately unrelated I think), and sway bar end links on the front then rotating the tires from the back to the front and aligning them properly.

Does this sound like it would solve my problem? (picture below) I have only put 13k miles on the tires - I have not had a rotation or alignment since I purchased it. I drove it so little I just never paid attention to it when I was busy with school.

Does what he said sound right?

I was quoted:

Monroe Quick Strut @ $125 x 2
Sway Bar End Links @ $100
Rear Shocks @ $50
Labor @ $230
Total: $630

I do not have a jack and jack stands, so if I did the work myself I would have to buy those tools. The labor doesn't seem outrageous but the part prices seem high.

Thank you for your help.

 

[HiLife]

You should get your truck to an alignment shop. The alignment tech must do a realignment inspection before they proceed to with the service. They can also zero in on why you have a tire wear issue.
Labor seems ok. The rear shocks seems cheap on the price. The front shocks are high being Monroes.

You will need a jack and jack stands to do the front shocks yourself.
The rear shocks can be changed without them. It's just the room to change them out will be tight. You may also need a chain strap to hold the rear shock from spinning as you loosen the rear shock top nut.
You will also need a spring compressor to compress the front spring (be careful) to unbolt and remove the top hat and slide the strut out. A shop can do that for you for a nominal fee after you remove the front strut/spring assembly as a unit.
There are tons of vids out there showing how it's done.

 

[tvpierce]

What are your intentions with this vehicle... long term, or short term? If you just need to get another year out of it, then go with the Monroe shocks & struts. If you like this vehicle, and intend to keep it for a while, you will be disappointed in the Monroe parts.

I would never put Monroe shocks/struts on a vehicle I own. Sure you save on the purchase price, but when they wear out in a year or two, you pay the labor again to replace them, then you need another alignment. Those two things just ate up your initial savings. Plus you had to endure a crappy Monroe ride for the two years you had that junk on your vehicle.

Bite the bullet, and get some quality shocks & struts from Bilstein, KYB, or some other reputable manufacturer.

Just my 2 cents. After adjusting for inflation, still arguably worth that.

 

[pauldub]

Rust on your springs and even missing sway bar end links should have no impact on your alignment. Go to a different mechanic.

 

[TLGG]

What are your intentions with this vehicle... long term, or short term? If you just need to get another year out of it, then go with the Monroe shocks & struts. If you like this vehicle, and intend to keep it for a while, you will be disappointed in the Monroe parts.

I would never put Monroe shocks/struts on a vehicle I own. Sure you save on the purchase price, but when they wear out in a year or two, you pay the labor again to replace them, then you need another alignment. Those two things just ate up your initial savings. Plus you had to endure a crappy Monroe ride for the two years you had that junk on your vehicle.

Bite the bullet, and get some quality shocks & struts from Bilstein, KYB, or some other reputable manufacturer.

Just my 2 cents. After adjusting for inflation, still arguably worth that.

Would you suggest the same for someone who rarely takes their truck off-road? For me, it is mostly cosmetic. I do most of my driving on asphalt. I take it off-road maybe 3 times a year and even then I try to take it easy.

Rust on your springs and even missing sway bar end links should have no impact on your alignment. Go to a different mechanic.

Would these issues have been cause for a rougher ride and in turn cause my alignment to have gone wacky quick? This was my understanding of his explanation. It made sense to me because my truck has rode stiff ever since I bought it.

 

[Mark_BC]

I don't think rust on springs makes any difference whatsoever to absolutely anything related to the suspension performance. Unless it's really deep rust and threatening to break the springs. Springs either work, or when they don't work they break, but very rarely if ever do they break since I've never heard of it happening. There is no in-between with springs.

I have rusty springs and have no intention of replacing them, I'll just grind off the rust and re-paint, good as new.

 

[mtbtim]

You take it in for a squeak and get an estimate for $630 in repairs. Sounds like a typical visit to a shop trying to bend you over for stuff you don't need.

If the shocks and springs are worn out, sure, replace them.

I'd start with taking it to a shop to check the alignment and have them rotate and balance the tires for you while there at it.

The squeak is most likely coming from the worn out end link and sway bar bushings. Replace them yourself with either OEM or aftermarket polyurethane ones.

If you decide to replace the shocks and springs, use the money you save by doing the work yourself and buy higher quality parts.

Here's a video that can help you out:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/0HJx6HH2yno" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[T4R2014]

Part prices high? That seems very fair. The guy needs to make a living too. Even if you supply the parts, he won't be able to warranty them if they fail.

 

[stir_fry_boy]

Monroes (especially quick struts) are garbage compared to bilsteins, even without a lift. You pay for what you get on shocks and struts. Likely if the coils in the back have never been done, you should do those. Seriously though, shocks and coils on the rear are super easy. The sway bar end links are easy as well. Labor seems ok.

 

[tvpierce]

Would you suggest the same for someone who rarely takes their truck off-road? For me, it is mostly cosmetic. I do most of my driving on asphalt. I take it off-road maybe 3 times a year and even then I try to take it easy.

Mine was general car/truck advice.
I don't know for sure, but I'd be surprised if Monroe even makes shocks for off-road or lifted vehicles.