2wd Driveshaft compatibility between the years

[AntleredRuin]

Ok, I believe the answer is yes, but I want to double check. Basic searching only yielded answers for 4wd, and I have 2wd.

I have a 1999 2wd Auto Tranny 3.4 V6.

Are all 3rd Gen T4R Driveshafts compatible across the board for a 2wd Auto tranny with the 3.4 V6? Like will a '96 fit on an '02, for example?

I think the internals of the A340E(F) transmission changed slightly in '01-'02, but did the external dimensions?


I'm asking because over the Christmas weekend, I tried to change out my u-joints. At 185k, the rear was starting to bind up and squeak pretty good. I figured I'd better replace them rather than have them grenade on me when I was at work later over 35 miles away from home.


I'd never changed a U-Joint, but I'm pretty mechanically savvy and I 'knew how' (through online videos, etc). I figured I'd rent a U-joint press for my first attempt at this as I don't own a BFH and I'm not too comfortable whacking on things if I've never really worked with them before. (I probably should have just bought the hammer)

I rented a big-ass press from Advance Auto ($230 bucks, yikes) and got everything lined up. Double, triple, quadruple check, and started to press the rearmost u-joint out first.
AND....it crumpled. Just....completely squashed. :wow2:The press pressed right through it. With complete ease, I might add. It was all lined up, but the u-joint just fell apart. Hence the initial squeaking, binding, etc. It was just dust.

I spent hours trying to get the destroyed u-joint out with with my oscillating multi-tool and and angle grinder with a cut-off blade.
I finally got the full joint out, cleaned up the inner bores of the rear yoke with a file, and started to press the new u-joint in. That's when I realized, sometime during all this, I had managed to slightly squeeze the rear yoke so the new u-joint would not line up....I could have sworn the press was properly lined up, but :shrug:


Hence my question about compatibility across the years.
I'm planning to hit a couple junkyards later today and just buy a complete driveshaft and yokes (front and rear). I'll of course check the u-joints for smoothness, etc. I'd like to aim for a '96-'98 if possible due to the analog ODO (I can tell how old the donor shaft will be).
LKQ has driveshafts and yokes listed online for like $36 bucks total, and the junkyard I always go to is usually cheaper than them.

I just want to know if I need to look for anything specific, other than 2wd, Auto tranny, 3.4 V6.

 

[Twisted Sid]

They should all be the same. Honestly of you're getting a brand used shaft, I'd replace the u joints in it just so you don't have to be worried about it for a long time. Most shops shouldn't charge a whole lot to charge them out of you're not comfortable trying it again.

 

[AntleredRuin]

They should all be the same. Honestly of you're getting a brand used shaft, I'd replace the u joints in it just so you don't have to be worried about it for a long time. Most shops shouldn't charge a whole lot to charge them out of you're not comfortable trying it again.

Ok, that's good to know, thanks.

The only reason why I'm getting the new shaft is because of the u-joints. It took like 15 minutes to pull the shaft, and shouldn't take much longer to reinstall.
I'm gonna hunt for a low mile shaft. My original u-joints lasted 185k, and I know some people's lasted much longer. I'd honestly rather replace the whole shaft, u-joints and all, every few years (depending on the mileage and condition of donor). I'd think that'd take an hour tops, and would be substantially cheaper than going to a shop.
Even the cheapest u-joints I can find cost $40 for both, and the shop labor I've been quoted is gonna be around $150.

 

[AntleredRuin]

OK, I actually stopped by a junkyard today during my lunch. I picked up a driveshaft from a '98 2wd. I did not pull it; the yard already had it pulled and in the back. Supposedly the donor had around 120k miles. He said from a 2wd, but I guess we'll see; ideally I would have liked to see the donor myself.

Looks like the u-joints had already been changed out; both of them have grease zerks and I know the OEM u-joints for 2wd are sealed.
I know the 4wd u-joints have zerks, but I'm not sure how long the 2wd vs 4wd shaft is, comparatively, to tell just holding one or the other. I'd imagine the 4wd is shorter, and this one seemed the same length as my 2wd. So, I hope the guy was telling the truth with the 2wd. Both u-joints move easily, no binding.
At any rate, it was $50, out the door, with 20 day return or exchange.

I figure not a bad deal. I was in and out in about 5 minutes, I didn't have to crawl around in the mud or hunt around. The u-joints were already replaced, so they are new(ish), and I can grease them as part of my regular maintenance to keep them alive and well, hopefully indefinitely.

Now I'll compare tonight and see if it matches my '99. I'll let you guys know.

 

[Kanoe]

The 4wd shaft mates to a flange on the transfer case where as the 2wd shaft goes into the transmission(I think). There should be no possibility of mixing them up.

 

[AntleredRuin]

The 4wd shaft mates to a flange on the transfer case where as the 2wd shaft goes into the transmission(I think). There should be no possibility of mixing them up.

Cool good to know. This definitely goes into the tranny.

 

[phattyduck]

Cool good to know. This definitely goes into the tranny.

The 2WD V6 auto shafts should all be compatible from '96-'02. The 4WD shaft is very different than the 2WD shaft, so no worries about mixing them up.

If you still have vibrations after the driveshaft swap, have a complete new shaft made. There is a rubber coupler/isolator in the 2WD shaft that breaks down with age and mileage that can't be replaced.

-Charlie

 

[AntleredRuin]

Yeah, the new driveshaft does match my current one.

I honestly never had any vibrations at all. I could cruise at 70 all day long smoothly (barring extraneous road conditions).

I'll install the new shaft tomorrow. First I'll need to grease the 'new' u-joints. I picked up one of those needle-nose adapters due to the hard to reach zerks. I don't know why those exist on u-joints like that. Stupid. They do still move freely, so I know they are good, but I'm gonna have to add this to my maintenance list.

 

[AntleredRuin]

Okay, I installed the new driveshaft this morning and it drives like new.

I had to actually use a tiny socket to remove the zerks because none of my grease fittings would fit. They were all too thick to fit between the yokes, and I could not press the needle adapter against the zerk tight enough to keep grease from squirting out the sides.
I just removed the zerks, and stuck the needle adapter straight into the U-joint and pumped like mad.

The whole thing took about an hour and a half, and I took my time and messed around for a bit too.

Now, the squeaking is gone, it shifts between gears easier, and it does not thump when I let off the gas.

Lesson learned. Don't bother changing U joints, just buy a new drive shaft.

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