2WD Driveshaft Issues

[BE4Runner]

I'm currently dealing with what I think are u-joint or driveshaft related issues on my 2000 2WD 4Runner. The symptoms are as follows:

• 'Clunk' when putting the truck into drive
• Squeaking for a couple minutes after the truck sits overnight. Speed of squeaks increases with speed, seems to be driveshaft rotational speed and not tire rotational speed
• Vibration while driving. Seems to be always present a little bit, but it's bad above 63 mph when OFF the gas - there is a loud deep rumble (like a rumble strip) and accompanying vibration

I've dug through threads here, and it sounds like it is most likely either bad u-joint(s) or a problem with the rubber coupling wearing out on the 2WD driveshaft.

Does anyone have experience switching a 2WD 4Runner to a one piece driveshaft (i.e. no rubber coupling)? It seems I can either get a one piece for $300-350 online, or the Toyota replacement shaft for $500+. I know replacing the u-joints is an option, but I'm worried if the rubber in the driveshaft is the issue this won't fix the problem, and I am staying at an AirBnb in Houston for the next month so I don't have my tools with me or space to work myself to hammer them out. I should be able to replace the entire driveshaft much easier.

Any suggestions on which direction you would go, aftermarket single piece (Toyota Replacement Driveshafts) or Toyota replacement (37110-3D070 | Toyota OEM Parts |*DRIVE SHAFT | Genuine Toyota)?

 

[euser]

Sounds exactly like the symptoms I had with bad U-Joints. I have an '02 with a one piece driveshaft so I don't know anything about the other stuff. I had a more recent issue where a u-joint broke an caused my driveshaft to go out of balance and damage both yokes. The out of balance driveshaft caused the same issues. Easiest way to tell is to go shake the U-joints around. They should have no play whatsoever.

 

[BE4Runner]

Sounds exactly like the symptoms I had with bad U-Joints. I have an '02 with a one piece driveshaft so I don't know anything about the other stuff. I had a more recent issue where a u-joint broke an caused my driveshaft to go out of balance and damage both yokes. The out of balance driveshaft caused the same issues. Easiest way to tell is to go shake the U-joints around. They should have no play whatsoever.

Sounds like it's probably the u-joints, but could be driveshaft balance - not sure how to tell without fixing just one or the other - why I'm leaning towards just getting a whole new driveshaft.

Sorry, I should have been a bit more clear the way I explained the 'one-piece' driveshaft. I think all 2WD driveshafts are 'one-piece,' but it looks like the factory design has an outer tube, then a rubber coupling, then an inner tube. The replacement driveshafts from any manufacturer I can find other than Toyota are just a single outer tube.

Toyota part:

New part:

 

[drbyrdman]

I just went to the dealer and bought a new one. Same problem as you. Problem solved:clap2:

 

[GangsterOfLove]

A driveline shop fixed mine for about $175. I can't see any reason to spend more than that - the original lasted some 180K miles.

 

[euser]

If you can wiggle the U-joints at all, then they are bad. So, climb under there and shake the shit out of your driveshaft to see if they have any play. If they do, bring it to a drive-line shop and they can replace them quickly and will make sure it runs smooth. Either way you should just bring it to a good specialized shop. I thought I had a failing rear-diff, but I was totally wrong. I had both my u-joints replaced, my yokes replaced, they fixed the teeth in the transmission for the yoke, balanced my driveshaft, and checked my rear-diff for only $422 at a highly rated driveline shop and they made sure it was driving smooth before giving it back. Don't get robbed at the dealer.

 

[BE4Runner]

To update and close this...

I couldn't feel much, if any, wiggle from the u-joints when I got under the car and tried shaking the driveshaft around, so I decided to go ahead and replace the whole driveshaft. The other concern for me was the rotted rubber in between the 'inner' and 'outer' shaft. There seems to be a lot of confusion around whether this is a coupling or a seal, but the point remains that there is an 'inner' and 'outer' shaft for at least part of the driveshaft. See pics of my old driveshaft rubber first (cracking and old) vs. the replacement second (relatively new looking rubber):

I picked up a used driveshaft from a junkyard around here for $100. Note that there is a difference between 2WD automatic 4cyl and 6cyl driveshafts. When I got my old driveshaft off, I could feel that the front u-joint could move side to side in one dimension, not just rotational. I would assume this was the result of my clunk and highway vibration, and hopefully the rotational squeaking as well.

After replacing the driveshaft, tightening the four nuts on (with blue loctite), I can confirm that the clunk when shifting into drive and the vibration coasting above 63 mph are both gone! Thanks everyone for the advice here.

 

[senor perfecto]

Is it only a vibration while coasting? Mine is while under acceleration, and it goes away after passing the shift point.

 

[phattyduck]

Just to add to this thread (yeah, a little late) - I replaced the factory driveshaft with a complete aftermarket unit (with no rubber coupling) with no negative effects that I could discern. My u-joints were still good, it was the rubber coupling that was bad.

Of course, now I just completed a 4WD swap a few months later and don't need the 2wd shaft anymore. :doh:

-Charlie

 

[nov74fj40]

Thanks for the help guys - I'll probably bit the bullet and get new OEM shaft.

 

[Scramble]

Thanks for the help guys - I'll probably bit the bullet and get new OEM shaft.

Why would you do that if you can get yours fixed for 1/3 the price of new?
Maybe [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] will sell you his old one?
Call Tom Woods, maybe a new one from him is around $300 for 2wd? You'd have to ask them.

 

[phattyduck]

Why would you do that if you can get yours fixed for 1/3 the price of new?
Maybe [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] will sell you his old one?
Call Tom Woods, maybe a new one from him is around $300 for 2wd? You'd have to ask them.

Tom Woods can probably do it if he can't find a local shop to build one. I already sold mine, otherwise I would have offered it.

-Charlie

 

[nov74fj40]

I took mine to a local machine shop - they did there thing on it, I put it back on. Definately helped but still have the hummmmm of a vibration at 65-75, very much so at 80. $100 to do it, lesson learned. I found a dealer that will sell OEM shaft complete with Ujoints and new spacers, nuts bolts and shipping for $500.

 

[RedSled]

Toyota Replacement Driveshafts

 

[01thunder]

I'm currently dealing with what I think are u-joint or driveshaft related issues on my 2000 2WD 4Runner. The symptoms are as follows:

• 'Clunk' when putting the truck into drive
• Squeaking for a couple minutes after the truck sits overnight. Speed of squeaks increases with speed, seems to be driveshaft rotational speed and not tire rotational speed
• Vibration while driving. Seems to be always present a little bit, but it's bad above 63 mph when OFF the gas - there is a loud deep rumble (like a rumble strip) and accompanying vibration

I've dug through threads here, and it sounds like it is most likely either bad u-joint(s) or a problem with the rubber coupling wearing out on the 2WD driveshaft.

Does anyone have experience switching a 2WD 4Runner to a one piece driveshaft (i.e. no rubber coupling)? It seems I can either get a one piece for $300-350 online, or the Toyota replacement shaft for $500+. I know replacing the u-joints is an option, but I'm worried if the rubber in the driveshaft is the issue this won't fix the problem, and I am staying at an AirBnb in Houston for the next month so I don't have my tools with me or space to work myself to hammer them out. I should be able to replace the entire driveshaft much easier.

Any suggestions on which direction you would go, aftermarket single piece (Toyota Replacement Driveshafts) or Toyota replacement (37110-3D070 | Toyota OEM Parts |*DRIVE SHAFT | Genuine Toyota)?

this is exactly what i am experiencing. i am having a new solid driveshaft made.

 

[01thunder]

an OE one is $500. a local shop is making one for me for $300, one piece.

 

[senor perfecto]

Is it only a vibration while coasting? Mine is while under acceleration, and it goes away after passing the shift point.

FYI -- it was plugs and wires.

 

[BoomerBob]

Just wanted to add my experience with a vibration that started at about 65 mph. Had the wheels rebalanced and it lessened the vibration a little but it was constant after 65 mph instead of stopping at 75 mph. Head scratcher.

Then I replaced the rotors on this 01 since it's about 19 years old. It definitely helped with the braking but did nothing for the vibration.

Luckily I have a good driveline shop nearby with a guy who has 40 years of experience who checked it out after I removed it and took it down to him. Turns out the guy who had the rig before me towed it behind a motorhome so he would drop the driveshaft when he did that. Dumb kid would literally drop the shaft on the ground which caused a .040 bow and 3 oz out of balance. I was advised to get a new one rather than try to fix that one because the back end flange was also beat up and needed replacing.

So my little money pit T4R bit me again (new engine and lots of other parts already replaced). I went with a recommended shop in Texas who should have the shaft with OE Toyota U-Joints already installed so it will be ready for me to put in the rig when it gets here. I just hope the vibration problem didn't cause a problem in the auto trans. It wasn't that bad; just bad enough to annoy me.

Assuming the trans and differential are okay; I should have a like new 01 T4R soon even if it is only a 2wd. Now to see what I can do about a leaking seal on the right rear...

These are really great rigs but anyone who thinks they can buy a 20 year old T4R for $4-5k and just drive it without putting some time and money into it should think about buying a new one instead. Then again I'll have under $9k into it when done and gone through which sure beats $40k for a new one. More if bought with payments. A lot more.

 

[BoomerBob]

Noteworthy new information on getting a new driveshaft.

The driveshaftspecialist.com site is what is usually recommended here and that's who I ordered from. They post prices. They are in San Antonio, TX. Well, as it turns out, they are a re-seller (middleman) sales company. I'm not knocking them at all because they work directly with the company that actually builds the driveshafts; Powertrain Industries out of Reno, NV. PI does have other locations and even one in TX that does rebuilding of driveshafts; which if done right is great. If you want to speak directly with the company that makes them; here is their website.

PowerTrain Industries - Contact Us

To see if they have your needed driveshaft or components, and I'm sure they will, go to this site page.

PowerTrain Industries - Catalogs

 

[G_Raw]

FYI -- it was plugs and wires.

Please expand on plugs and wires... I have what feels like a driveline vibration on my 99. I also recently did my valve covers, plugs, and wires as well as new third member. I did them all in the same weekend. Now you got me second guessing my driveline theory.