3.4 engine install
- Thread starter zwalker16
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sleepydad
Senior Member
auto trans?
the torque converter needs to be seated correctly. make sure you check this distance here from the FSM. it's very easy for the torque converter to slip out a bit. you should be able to give the engine a bit of wiggle and it should clunk right into it's place. I usually try to get an easy bold started on the lower part of the bell housing. once you 2x lower bolts you can can give it that gentle wiggle and make it happen.
<a href="https://imgur.com/fg6HfGP"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/fg6HfGP.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
There are two dowels on the transmission bell housing that HAVE to line up perfectly. They are at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions. When I put my engine back in, you have to tilt the engine up very slightly so the fan side of the engine is pointing up just a little. If your engine lift won't do this and it's facing flat or downwards then take some heavy duty ratchet straps and attach it to the front of the engine and then at the hook on the engine lift. Just a few cranks should get it pointing up. Also works the other way in case the engine is facing too far up, you can hook it on the back of the engine to get it more level.
Also if you have the transmission on a jackstand (which you were supposed to when you took the engine out) put the floor jack under the trans and see if you can move the transmission ever so slightly to get it lined up with where you've got the engine.
Also if you have the transmission on a jackstand (which you were supposed to when you took the engine out) put the floor jack under the trans and see if you can move the transmission ever so slightly to get it lined up with where you've got the engine.
Dieselchessy
New member
Those dowels.......
I clean up the holes real well, then lightly grease the dowels. I also use long bolts cut off to make alignment pins. Still that last 1/2 inch can be annoying.
I clean up the holes real well, then lightly grease the dowels. I also use long bolts cut off to make alignment pins. Still that last 1/2 inch can be annoying.
19963.4lsr5
New member
I spent 2hrs after I spent 20 minutes putting g the engine in the engine bay.
You need to get the proper engine angle and it will simply fall into place.
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You need to get the proper engine angle and it will simply fall into place.
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Should have read the FSM first. So the converter is put in the bell housing first them the engine?
Dieselchessy
New member
Yes, Torque converter onto tranny input/pump. Then engine to tranny, then up through dust shield bolt TC to flex plate.
Reverse of tranny removal.
Reverse of tranny removal.
19963.4lsr5
New member
At the most the trans pump seal. I never pull a torque converter out of a trans unless I’m ready to replace the pump seal and bushing.
Those torque converter bolts are buggers.
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I feel like an idiot
sleepydad
Senior Member
wayyyyy stupider things have been done. your fine, and at least your smart enough to ask for help. asking for help and learning is not what an idiot does.
keep it going, your going to nail it down.
+ I want to see how that solo motor sports long travel turns out.
Currently my progress. Been busy with the new job. But this year my goals are to get all the supports welded up front. Bumps, rear gas tank relocation and true 4 link for the rear LT setup.
Attachments
If you tried to force the transmission and engine together with the bolts you have likely damaged the transmission pump. If you didn't try to force it then you're probably ok. You may have damaged the pump seals during the line up process so you might replace those before you go back together just in case.
I didn't try to force it.
plcfcng
Member
I would pull the engine back out check the converter as described spin the converter it should feel very smooth as you spin it. If it feels ok change the converter seal reinstall the converter. When you go to set the engine back in when you line things up remember the converter holes need to line up with the flex plate I start with the matching holes straight down on both holes. A little grease on the pins and holes does help along with keeping the threads on the bolts clean. As It goes together it sometimes helps to lift either the front or the back of the trans to help with alignment using a floor jack. Using the bolts to draw it together should be done with caution. If it feel likes it's binding STOP and start checking for whats causing the bind.
You can do it
You can do it
I would pull the engine back out check the converter as described spin the converter it should feel very smooth as you spin it. If it feels ok change the converter seal reinstall the converter. When you go to set the engine back in when you line things up remember the converter holes need to line up with the flex plate I start with the matching holes straight down on both holes. A little grease on the pins and holes does help along with keeping the threads on the bolts clean. As It goes together it sometimes helps to lift either the front or the back of the trans to help with alignment using a floor jack. Using the bolts to draw it together should be done with caution. If it feel likes it's binding STOP and start checking for whats causing the bind.
You can do it
I didn't leave the motor in
Pulled it all out. Will check everything Monday and reinstall
19963.4lsr5
New member
When it’s in the right position it will go together with no gap. Then thread some bolts onto the bellhousing by hand and do your motor mounts.
My SR5 Build and Repair thread has engine removal and install.
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My SR5 Build and Repair thread has engine removal and install.
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