I wanted to get some input on my 3rd gens differential. There is an annoying low pitched whine that I hear when I am decelerating (engine braking). After to speaking to a friend that is a Toyota manager he said that there is too much backlash between the ring a pinion gear and I need a new carrier assembly eventually. But wouldn't say how long mine would last. I have 120k miles on it now and I want it to last at least another 100k longer. What would the best advice be to deal with the diff? Wait until I can find a rear diff for a good price? Suck it up and buy it new? Buy OEM or after market? I plan on doing all the work myself. Any help anyone can provide is appreciated.
3rd Gen 4Runner Differential
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alico268
New member
I recently had to deal with a Third Member issue from a 4runner I purchased. It whined at all speeds!
I took a chance and grabbed a used OEM one for $300.00 off of ebay, installed it myself and no more noise! I was much relieved, especially because when I had both members out, the one off ebay did not seem to spin as easily the original which had me worried, but I guess it's because it had more preload. BTW, I later learned you're not supposed to spin a dry diff.
New ones go for about $1200-1500, and to have someone rebuild the diff is pretty costly too as well as the vehicle downtime involved. Some parts I prefer to buy new. In this case, a driveline component is not one of those. What are you gaining by putting a 0 mile part on a drivetrain with 120k? A good used OEM one with a swap out warranty would be my suggestion.
I took a chance and grabbed a used OEM one for $300.00 off of ebay, installed it myself and no more noise! I was much relieved, especially because when I had both members out, the one off ebay did not seem to spin as easily the original which had me worried, but I guess it's because it had more preload. BTW, I later learned you're not supposed to spin a dry diff.
New ones go for about $1200-1500, and to have someone rebuild the diff is pretty costly too as well as the vehicle downtime involved. Some parts I prefer to buy new. In this case, a driveline component is not one of those. What are you gaining by putting a 0 mile part on a drivetrain with 120k? A good used OEM one with a swap out warranty would be my suggestion.
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Thanks for the input. The whine on mine isn't all that bad so I'm not in a huge rush. I just don't want it to get to the point it affects another part of the drivetrain or fails completely. I've been junkyard shopping and haven't found a match to my diff yet. The OEM used part is the way I am leaning, as long as I can find one.
Im curious, why shouldn't you spin a dry diff? I dont have much experience with them.
Konkordmusk
New member
Have you changed the fluid yet? Just curious to see if there were any metal shavings that may have come out of the diff. If there weren't, I would try just changing the fluid before replacing the third member.
You can spin a dry diff by hand. It makes no difference. In fact, when you set differentials up you HAVE to spin them after painting the teeth to get the coasting pattern and such setup correctly.
AssBurns
New member
I recently broke my ring and pinion while off-roading over New Years weekend. I went through East Coast Gear Supply. I highly recommend them. I got a rebuilt 3rd member with Yukon R&P for $700 + $500 core charge. I got the new 3rd member installed and took the old one down to UPS with the included packing slip and a week later I got my $500 back. I ordered mine on a Tuesday and it was at my house by that Friday on the opposite side of the country. I think they are cheaper if you don't have the E-Locker or 4.30 gearing. Which I have both. I just wish I had the funds to re-Gear to 4.88 or 5.29 while I was doing it.
