Maybe bend it back, weld it, then weld these on there for reinforcement: Upper Link Mount Reinforcement – eimkeith.comAnyone got any advice for fixing this? This is the rear control arm bracket connection with the axle. Haven't found many other people online with this issue.
3rd gen 4Runner Frame Rust Repair Kit
- Thread starter suncoug
- Start date
Thanks this is exactly what I was looking for!
Leebo
New member
Glad I found this thread! My 99 4Runner has rust-cancer on the rear portion of the frame rails. The left side area where the hitch mounts to the frame is very bad, as well as where the left frame mounts to the rear body mount. The right side isn't quite as bad, but it's not far behind. The rust on the left side is bad enough now that the body has separated from the frame/cab mount. Shaking the hitch causes a "clunk" where the rusted remanence of the cab mount hits the body. There is absolutely no way I'd tow anything without fixing this first, and I know I'll be towing about a 2000lb load in a couple months (i.e. I need to get on the fix right away).
I'm thinking of buying the ART-221-S and ART-222-S to repair the frame sections and body mounts on both the left and right sides. From what I can tell, this looks like it would produce an acceptable fix. I don't seem to have much noticeable frame rust forward of the spare tire cross member, but the inner section of the left frame from the spare tire cross member to the frame rear end is almost totally gone from rust.
Just thinking out loud and sharing. Anyone else fighting rust in this same area and successfully repair theirs? Does this seem like a good plan? I've done a little welding in the past, but a good friend of mine (I'm lobbying to help) is a very experienced welder and has good MIG welding equipment.
I'm thinking of buying the ART-221-S and ART-222-S to repair the frame sections and body mounts on both the left and right sides. From what I can tell, this looks like it would produce an acceptable fix. I don't seem to have much noticeable frame rust forward of the spare tire cross member, but the inner section of the left frame from the spare tire cross member to the frame rear end is almost totally gone from rust.
Just thinking out loud and sharing. Anyone else fighting rust in this same area and successfully repair theirs? Does this seem like a good plan? I've done a little welding in the past, but a good friend of mine (I'm lobbying to help) is a very experienced welder and has good MIG welding equipment.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
My build thread is full of rust repair options..
You probably can still buy that body mount oem off toyota as well. My perfered method is to clean the frame completely out and weld the replacement plates on the inside of the frame. As they rot from the inside out.
Lots of folks like the rust repair kits as well.
Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
If you are paying for labor (I would be) seems like a bargain!
brillo_76
Elite Member
I would replace the bushings etc when you weld this back together. As if your bushings are bad the alignment will be off when you weld it back together. :-(
brillo_76
Elite Member
Yes take a look at my build thread as most of my information are frame fixes..
You need to descale all of that rebuild the frame section itself. Then put a new or used body mount bracket welded in the old ones place.
A 2nd option would be to find another section of the frame at a junk yard etc that's good slice it off. Then cut your bad section off putting plates on the inside frame rails then weld it all back together..
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Leebo
New member
Safe to drive? I'd say it depends on overall how bad the rust is and where. I never did follow up with my rust issue posting but I did get the ends of the frames fixed with the Safe T Cap items. After that, I then found more rust... this time on the driver side on the frame where the track bar attaches. It ended up breaking free right just when I received more parts from Safe T Cap to do more frame work. This job was even more of a pain; had to drop the gas tank and while doing the welding work, one of the hard brake lines accidentally got burned through with some welding spatter. Had to recreate a hard line and patch it in. The passenger side spot needs repair too; not too far behind but not as bad as the driver side connection to the track bar. But as for the safe to drive question, if it was like the rusty area around the track bar, definitely not safe. As for the further bak area supporting the hitch (not used) and rear body mounts, probably much less of a safety issue.
Here are some pics of mine. Not the prettiest weld job but it got the job done. Painted after these pics.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
Good deal. I am curious how those caps hold up. My method of repair is completely different then using the safety caps..
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brillo_76
Elite Member
In my state, any rust hole in a frame is instant inspection fail. Now That can be fixed. As I am fixing an arch hole now in my passenger arch.
My method is internal plating of boxed frames. You have to be careful when how much steel is rotted away though. This is why everyone recommends the external plating from safety cap which is a good method except for 2 things. Cleaning the inside of the frame out and coating it with rust prevention liquid of your choice. If folks would clean out the rust and scale out of their frames then coat and paint or coat it with a rust prevention liquid this would slow down the internal rotting of the metal and make it last longer.
My one frame I did was experimental and thrown together in 2015. Because I did nothing but just plate it in 2015, I have to go back in areas to fix it again. Along with fixing other areas that were fine in 2015. So I am done with external plating unless there is no other way to fix it and is some cases there inst.
You mostly have 5 to 7 years left if your rig is in the rust belt if you do nothing to slow down and stop the rust with external plating. As the steel will continue to rot away inside and will be up to your weld lines by then.
Well that is what my experiment showed here in western pa on my Tetanus 1.
