3rd Gen 4Runner Lift Information and FAQ's

Did you ever find an alternative? Currently coming back to this and once again can't decide on rear coils. Seems like everybody says OME or LC, but then promptly complains about either one in some way.
 
Seems like everybody says OME or LC, but then promptly complains about either one in some way.

I've run both. 96Red 8 wrap LC's with LC Bilstein 5100's, rode nice handled weight well. 8 wrap about 4" lift, 7.5 wrap about 3" lift.

Current Runner have OME 890's about 3" lift paired with LC Bilstein 5160's couple thousand miles on this combo. Stock rear bumper rides nice empty,
100-130 lb's weight plates in cargo area sqauts 1/2" approx rides nice.
Springs for weight load, shocks for ride quality, OME shocks suck, 16k mi on OME 3" lift kit proved it.
This Runner now has Billy Tundra 6112's front, Billy LC 5160's/890 springs rear, like it no complaints.

This mix n match of suspension parts is very subjective I may like something you may differ.
 
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Written by 99yota4, Brian2sun, ChildrenOfBodom, Duhockey, kregg, steezemcqueen, xskydivingdudex


One of the most popular modifications to the 4Runner is to put on a suspension lift. There are many different options and many can be confusing. Hopefully this thread will help you decide on which lift is best for you.

Here are several important factors to help you decide the best lift option for your 4Runner:
  • How much do you want to spend? Many times this becomes the deciding factor.
  • What purpose are you lifting the vehicle? for off-road? Just for the look?
  • Do you want to run bigger tires after lifting?
  • What are the additional weight requirements that you might carry over stock.
What are you lifting it for?
Written by kregg

Will you just drive on road? Will you wheel it? There are a lot of things to consider before doing it...

Not only will larger tires affect your gas mileage, but also your acceleration, braking, cornering, and the overall "feel" of the truck will change when you start messing with the suspension.

Can you daily drive a lifted 4Runner? Heck yea.
Is it economical? No. adding bigger tires too doesn't make your truck get better gas mileage either.

If you lift it - expect a "stiffer" ride. There are too many personal variables to define whether this ride is better or worse than stock. In terms of ride comfort, the general consensus is this ---- Spacers (Daystar/Revtek) --> Rear Coils / Front Spacer combo (OME/Spacer kit from Toytec) --> Full Coil lifts (Toytec/Sonoran Steel/OME) ---- Adding new, longer shocks to any of these kits will greatly improve the comfort and ability of each of these kits. Again, there are a thousand varieties of shocks to choose from. I think my truck rides pretty good for what I've done to it. I'd like to have a little softer feel up front, but for a lifted SUV the ride isn't unbearable. When I had my 285's I think I lost 2-3 MPG's per tank, but I wheeled it at least once a week or so, running in 4WD doesn't help the MPG's either.

Types of lifts:

Spacers
The least expensive way to lift your 4Runner is by using a coil spacer. A coil spacer basically preloads the spring which lifts the truck. Spacers can be used for up to 3" of lift. Spacers are seen as inexpensive because they do add a lift but are not recommended by most for off road. These serve more for aesthetic purposes and while they can be used on stock coils, they can also cause sagging of the stock coils at a faster rate.

Coil Spacers vs Top Plate Spacers
The coil spacer sits inside the coil/shock assembly and just compresses the spring most than normal which creates lift. The advantage to this type of spacer is that it does not change the geometry of the factory setup. However, they can cause a harsh ride especially if you coil springs are old and sagging. They are also more difficult to install. The top plate spacer bolts on to the top of the coil/shock assembly and extends the shock down to create lift. The advantage to the top plate spacer is that they do not change the ride of the truck at all and they are generally easier to install. The disadvantage is that you are extending the length of the shock and the shock is what limits the travel of the front suspension. By extending that shock, you are also extended the travel of the suspension past what it was designed for. This can cause problems with overextended ball joints and CV axles.

Pros: Inexpensive, gives a decent amount of lift,
Cons: Coil spacers can stiffen the ride and prematurely sag the springs. Top plate spacers can over extended shocks, CV, and ball joints

Old Man Emu (OME) Lift Spring
Old Man Emu(a division of ARB) makes lift springs for the front and rear of the 4Runner. Many people are running these for lift. They are not overly expensive and still provide a good amount of lift and a quality ride. Trim packers can also be added to front and rear coils to ensure a leveled lift as many commonly misunderstand this.

Front options are:
  • 880 1" lift coil for stock weight.
  • 881 2.5" lift coil for stock weight.
  • 883 3" lift coil designed for 100 lbs. additional front weight.
  • 882 3" lift coil designed for 150+ lbs additional front weight.
  • A top plate spacer can be combined with the 881 coil for a full 3" lift
for the rear you can choose from:
  • 906 2" lift coil
  • 890 3" lift coil
  • 891 3" lift coil designed for additional weight.
Pros: Provides a decent amount of lift, gives a quality ride.
Cons: Not adjustable, more expensive than spacers. can sag over time.

Coilovers
Another way to lift your truck up to 3.5 is by using a adjustable coilover in the front and a lift spring like a OME or a FJ80 Landcruiser spring in the rear. A coilover is an adjustable shock/coil assembly that can be adjusted from stock height up to 3.5 depending on the brand. Just remember that the higher you crank the coilover up, the stiffer the ride becomes and the harsher your CV angle becomes. Coilovers are an excellent way to lift the front of your truck, and in some cases is an improvement on the stock ride quality. As good as coilovers are, they are also more expensive then spacers or a coil lift (like the OME above). An inexpensive coilover will cost around $1000 and can cost up to $2000 a set for the complete front and rear kit.

Pros: Adjustable height, best ride quality.
Cons: Expensive.

The FJ80 Landcruiser Spring
a cheap effective way to achieve a good amount of lift and flex is to install FRONT springs from a FJ80 (1991-1997) Landcruiser in the REAR of the 3rd gen. there are many different versions of these springs but that main way to identify them is to count how many wraps they have which generally will determine how much lift you will get. you can usually pick up a pair of these for under $100 at a junkyard or on a forum classified section.

  • 7 wrap is about 3-3.5" of lift
  • 8 is about 4"
  • 9 is about 5"
Height of spring/color code/wraps

  • 21" Blue Pink White 9.25 wraps
  • 21" Grey Orange White 9.25 wraps
  • 20.25" Blue Yellow White 8.75 wraps-one of these is a confirmed LX450
  • 19.5" Green Yellow White 8.25 wraps-one of these is a confirmed LX450
  • 19.5" Purple Green White 8 wraps
  • 19.25" Double Purple Dark Blue White 8 wraps
  • 19" Double Pink Light Blue White 7.5 wraps
  • 18.5" Double Pink Grey White 7.5 wraps
  • 18 7/8" Orange Orange White 7.75 wraps
you can also use the OME 851, which is a lift spring for the FJ80. that usually gives about 6 inches of lift.

Pros: Cheap, lots of lift, flexes really well.
Cons: Will sag under load.

The TRD Tundra Spring

The front spring and shock from the 2000-06 Tundra TRD can be used to lift the front of the 4Runner. The part numbers and color codes are:


  • Driver side - 48131-AF100 Yellow/Yellow
  • Passenger side - 48131-AF090 Yellow/Blue

These springs are a progressive rate coil which means that they start out soft and get stiffer as they compress. this gives the 4Runner and soft ride while still providing good handling both on and off road. These springs generally yield about 2.5" of lift. there are companies selling the Tundra spring with a Bilstein adjustable shock which can be adjusted to get more lift.

Pros: Provides a decent amount of lift, durable.
Cons: Can settle and give a harsher ride, not as adjustable as a coilover

The 99 Highlander Springs
If you want a small lift or have worn out springs, a good option might be to change out your springs for springs from the 1999 4Runner Highlander Edition. these springs sat 1" higher than any other 3rd Gen 4Runner. They can be ordered online or at a Toyota dealer.

99 spring part numbers:
  • Front Passenger Side Springs - Blue / Yellow (48131-35400)
  • Front Driver Side Springs - Blue / Pink (48131 - 35350)
  • Both Rear Springs - Yellow / Red (48231 - 35210)

Pros: Fairly inexpensive, OEM ride quality.
Cons: Small amount of lift. (might be all you want)

Other Suspension Lift Components:
There are many other parts to lift the 3rd Gen other than just springs and shocks. some are required, some are highly recommended, and some are optional.

The Diff Drop
On 4Runners with suspension lifts over 2", the front CV axles operate at great an angle which increases wear and tear and can cause them to break under off-road conditions. One simple cure for this problem is to lower the differential on the front axle to reduce the angle on the CVs. So with a 1" diff drop on a 3" lifted truck, it returns the CV angles closer to that of a milder 2" lift.

Upper Control Arms
Aftermarket upper control arms allow for greater wheel travel, clearance between tire and UCA, and they improve alignment by adding more adjustability to the caster and camber. this will make the 4Runner easier to align and be able to get it right back to stock specs.

The Panhard Drop/Longer Panhard Bar
The panhard rod drop bracket lowers the frame end of the panhard rod to compensate for the rear end lift. The panhard rod helps to locate the rear axle side to side and if not adjusted for the lift, it will tend to pull the axle towards the passenger side due to its higher angle from the frame to the axle bracket.

Extended Brake Lines
When you lift the 4Runner, the distance between the body and the rear axle increases. there is a flexible brake line that runs down from the body to the rear axle and has slack which allows the suspension to travel and articulate. when you lift it, some of that slack is taken up and the line may not have enough to allow the suspension to articulate. a longer brake line will cure this.


Body Lifts:
Written by Brian2sun

Body lifts come in .5", 1", 1.5" 2", 2.5", and 3" (or anything in-between if you make it custom). Most of us (myself included) think BLs are best used in addition to a suspension lift primarily to clear bigger tires easier. Although you can do a BL alone, you only get clearance for bigger tires - unlike a suspension lift which still gives you more clearance for tires, but you also get more ground clearance for the chassis and more travel/articulation in the suspension too. I run a 3" OME suspension lift along with a 1" BL to clear my 33.5"+ tires. W/O the BL, my tires would rub.

If you are doing it strictly for looks, leave now. Really, though a BL is THE CHEAPEST WAY TO LIFT. So if you are a mall queen, this might be best for you.

1-1.5" BLs on '97-02s don't require anything special except removing the lower radiator shroud (which takes seconds). If you have a stock bumper, you'll want to get a bumper bracket lift so you won't have a gap between the body and the bumper (since the body goes up but the bumper is connected to the frame which stays put). '96s have 2 less body mounts than the other 3rd gens so those must be added to do a BL (safely at least) as well as a steering rag joint extension. All of these extras can be purchased from:
Toyota 4Runner/Hilux Surf Body Lift Kit Pricing/Ordering Page

If you're doing a more than a 1" BL, there are modifications you need to make like dropping the radiator and extending shifter linkage. For more info:
3rd Gen 4Runner Body Lift Installation

Installing a BL (especially a 1" on a '97-02) is pretty easy even if you have limited mechanical knowledge. If you're the DIY type (which you better learn to be fast in this hobby), refer to the link directly above for important info.

Pros: Cheap, easy to install, can be added to a suspension lift for more height.
Cons: Does not increase ground clearance or suspension travel.

Prices:

Generally you get what you pay for when it comes to performance and comfort with your suspension. here are a few examples of what you can expect to pay for different types of lift kits

Spacer kits: $100-200
Front spacer/ rear coil lift: $200-350
New coil springs(no shocks): $300- 400
Shocks and coil springs: $600-800
Adjustable coilover kits: $1000-2000

Companies:
there are many different companies that offer lifts for the 3rd Gen 4Runner. which company you choose to go with depends on what your needs are.
here are a few companies with what they offer

NOTE: these companies and many others offer much more than what is listed, these are just examples of what is offered.

After you install your lift

GET AN ALIGNMENT

How much lift do i have?/What is the stock vehicle measurement?

Its hard to say exact since there are a different height stock springs (99 talls vs 01-02) and the stock springs will probably have some sag by now. But a good baseline is that most 3rd gens should measure 20 inches from the center of the hub up to the fender in the front and about 20.5 in the rear.

Disclaimer thing:
This writeup is for informational purposes only. I have compiled info that I have written, info that others have submitted, and info from other articles. I take no credit for what other people have written and I assume no responsibility for what you choose after you read this. This writeup is not meant to promote any particular companies products. It is strictly to explain the many options for lifting the 3rd gen.

PM me if you see something that should be added or changed. Mods, if you feel something should be edited, feel free to do it. Please just PM me the changes.

Thank you for this! This is like the holy grail of info!
 
Man, posts like these make me already LOVE this site/forum. You guys are incredibly helpful. Damn grateful to have access to this knowledge base.
 
Double Take!!

looking to gain another inch...over an inch...
so I did the highlander springs...that gave me an inch...but that was 40k ago and now I have added a winch etc. SO just want to beef things up without getting crazy.

so looking at a 2 inch lift... dont want to go higher.
tundra trd coils
OME 906 rears
billies 5100 all around


however have read the OME 906 sag out in a few years....true ? is there a better option for the rears keeping in mind I dont want to go over 2 inch.
will my 4runner air bags fit into the 906 springs

I read this post and then had to look at who wrote is as I thought I did in my sleep!!
We have the same year, model, and color... with the same lift. I also did the Highlander 1" lift a couple years ago with about the same mileage on it.
I came back to this forum because I want 1 more inch! lol
Anyway, what did you end up doing?
I was looking up all the parts you listed and stumbled on this kit.

Toyota 4Runner 1996-02/Tacoma 1995-04 Front Coil Springs - Performance Load (0-110LBS) (TOY038B)

Toyota 4Runner 1996-02 Rear Coil Springs (2" Lift) - Performance Load (0-660LBS)

Wonder if I should just go that route...
 
I read this post and then had to look at who wrote is as I thought I did in my sleep!!
We have the same year, model, and color... with the same lift. I also did the Highlander 1" lift a couple years ago with about the same mileage on it.
I came back to this forum because I want 1 more inch! lol
Anyway, what did you end up doing?
I was looking up all the parts you listed and stumbled on this kit.

Toyota 4Runner 1996-02/Tacoma 1995-04 Front Coil Springs - Performance Load (0-110LBS) (TOY038B)

Toyota 4Runner 1996-02 Rear Coil Springs (2" Lift) - Performance Load (0-660LBS)

Wonder if I should just go that route...
Im doing the tundra springs and billies up front and LC springs and tokico shocks in back...
 
Whats the easiest way to correct Toyota lean? I put in my TRD coils/struts today and have about a 1/2in dip on the driver's side :(
 
that's what I figured, thanks!
Edit: When I search for a 1/2in top spacer on google, it gives me a little blurb saying how that 1/2in should translate to a full 1in of lift. Is this true? I don't think I've ever heard this before. Should I get a 1/4in spacer if so?
 
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that's what I figured, thanks!
Edit: When I search for a 1/2in top spacer on google, it gives me a little blurb saying how that 1/2in should translate to a full 1in of lift. Is this true? I don't think I've ever heard this before. Should I get a 1/4in spacer if so?
Half inch spacer in the rear will give you a half inch. Half inch spacer in the front will give you closer to an inch. A quarter inch spacer in the front should be about a half inch or you can move the driver side shock up 1 clip if you have bilstein adjustable shocks in the front.
 
Thanks friend, probably gonna with a spacer, I really enjoy how the front sits as is. Appreciate the help
 
Working on putting together my '97 and it had a revtek lift on the springs arealdy. I ordered Bilstein 5100 shocks and struts assuming that I could install them without replacing the springs and revtek lift as well. I would like to keep the current 2" lift height. Will this work?

I know it seems odd to not replace the springs at the same time but I'm ballin on a budget here.
 
Is there any reason to keep the OEM cone stops if I have the extended Daystar bump stops? :noidea:

do you mean the cones in the spring ?
Some models do not have, if installing air bags you cut them down , if putting in LC springs you get rid of them
 
Is there any reason to keep the OEM cone stops if I have the extended Daystar bump stops? :noidea:

I kept mine 4 different lift setup's OE, LC 2X, OME reason being.
I didn't have to find a place to store them in my already full storage.
Do give 1/4" lift.
Do make a good top hat insulator, steel rubber steel vs steel on steel.
 
Limited 4Runner 880/906 OME coils with 4Runner specific 5100’s. Bottom perch. Spacer on driver side. Trim packers in rear coils. No rear coil cones installed. After 2-3 years center of wheel height to limited fender.
Front 21.5” Rear 22”. No need for diff drop, pan hard correction, or extended brake lines. Hope this helps someone out.
 
Having trouble with my 4runner and trying to figure out how much lift it currently has because I am getting extremely confused by what stock measurements are supposed to be.

I just watched Speedy do his lift and the AFTER measurements are 21.5 up front and 22 in the rear from the center hub to the edge of the fender. He did the 2 inch tundra struts and coils.

My 4runner with Moog 81088 and 4Runner 5100s (PN:24-248730) on the lowest setting(No Spacers) is sitting at 22 inches.

Similarly his rear measurement is 22 inches. I have OME 890s in the rear, just installed but have about 10 miles or so on them with a full tank and 100-130 lbs in the back and my measurement is sitting at 23 inches or 37 inches from the ground to the fender edge.

My 4Runner is a '96 and im running 265/75 wildpeaks if that helps but my main question is why is the front so high with stock springs and struts. My front has been on since April and has had plenty of time to settle. Any help would be appreciated
 
So I'm scratching my head a bit, and I hate to beat a dead horse but I've searched everywhere and can't find a decent answer to my question throughout existing threads. My question is in regards to the Bilstein shocks that are specific to the 3rd gen 4runners.

I installed my lift the other day and I used the following parts:

Bilstein front and rear shocks (4runner specific fronts and the 4th gen rears for extended travel)
Toytec Eibach front springs (112-620)
and some LC 8 Wraps in the rear.

I installed the springs on the second perch (whcich looking into it is about the same height as the second perch on the Tacoma shocks from Bilstein), which I thought would be fine as I have an ARB bar and winch on the front. The thing is I noticed I do not have much travel left in the shock when I let it off the jack. Should I take it down a notch and install a 1/2" spacer on the top instead? or is there normally not a lot of down travel in these setups due to the stiffness of the spring?
 

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