3rd gen 4runner Push Button Transfer case.

[Forrest931]

Hey, I'm new here, and I just finished grinding out my requisite 15 posts.

I have a 96 4runner Limited with 277k miles and the stupid push-button transfer case, instead of the J case. I recently noticed a grind when pressing the button to go from 2H to 4H (no grind going from 4H to 4L). The grind got more and more pronounced unless I was engaging it at a complete standstill, until a couple of mornings ago in the snow when it decided to stop working entirely.

Unfortunately, I've checked all the easier stuff, (fuses, connections, etc) and everything has been fine which leads me to my actuator going bad. A couple of questions about this,

Does the Transfer case have to come out in order to replace the actuator? and if so does anyone have a link to a video of a write-up on here of someone replacing their transfer case


Secondly, what is the part Number on the actuator itself mine has unfortunately been long worn away by water crossings and snow. (picture below)

Lastly is it worth replacing just the actuator or buying a new transfer case and slapping that in? If I do that though I'm just worried about this happening again, Is there any preventative maintenance that I should've been doing other than changing T case oil every other oil change?

Lots of questions, Thank you T4R

 

[Zhehan]

You're supposed to run the vehicle in 4WD for 10 miles per month according to the manual in my vehicle... That's part of the preventative maintenance.

 

[phattyduck]

The grind got more and more pronounced unless I was engaging it at a complete standstill, until a couple of mornings ago in the snow when it decided to stop working entirely.

Do you have to go to Neutral or Park to get it to shift, or were you still in drive?

There is a set of synchros in the the transfer case (for either j-shift or push-button) that help speed up the front prop shaft during the shift, which is what allows the 'shift-on-the-fly' thing to work. Sounds like those got ruined somehow. It is basically like the actuator is trying to shift a manual transmission without the clutch or synchros... (which is why you have to stop to shift from 4H to 4Lo)

If there is mechanical damage in the transfer case, then replacing the actuator won't change anything.

Have you done a drain and fill of the transfer case to see what is on the drain plug and in the fluid? Chunks, 'glitter', etc?

-Charlie

 

[mtbtim]

You're supposed to run the vehicle in 4WD for 10 miles per month according to the manual in my vehicle... That's part of the preventative maintenance.

Even though this is written in the manual as something to do, most don't do it and are fine. If you're not on a trail, or driving on icy or snow covered roads, it's not really a good idea to drive around in 4wd on pavement. You run the risk or binding your CV Axles and Differential on a turn causing a failure.

At most, it might be prudent to engage it on a quiet residential street where you're driving straight, and then disengage it when you need to make a turn.

In my opinion, it's the act of engaging and disengaging that's the most important and not the amount of miles driven. It's the actuator getting stuck in one position that causes the issue.

But, when you realize that the HIGH majority of people that own 4wd models don't do this, and can still get into and out of 4wd without issue, it's not as big of an issue as some people think it is.

 

[phattyduck]

At most, it might be prudent to engage it on a quiet residential street where you're driving straight, and then disengage it when you need to make a turn.

...

But, when you realize that the HIGH majority of people that own 4wd models don't do this, and can still get into and out of 4wd without issue, it's not as big of an issue as some people think it is.

I do it on a quiet residential (straight) street whenever I think it has been more than a month or two since I have engaged 4WD - often for just a couple blocks. In the case of the mechanical j-shift, it is there to make sure the front diff is fully lubed and the vacuum actuator system is still happy.

There are plenty of stories of people with push-button cases (regular or multi-mode) with shifting issues that are at least partially caused by lack of use. This is especially true for a new owner when buying from someone that never used 4WD...

I think in the original poster's case though, it is not lack of use.

-Charlie

 

[Bad Luck]

Hey, I'm new here, and I just finished grinding out my requisite 15 posts.

I have a 96 4runner Limited with 277k miles and the stupid push-button transfer case, instead of the J case. I recently noticed a grind when pressing the button to go from 2H to 4H (no grind going from 4H to 4L). The grind got more and more pronounced unless I was engaging it at a complete standstill, until a couple of mornings ago in the snow when it decided to stop working entirely.

Unfortunately, I've checked all the easier stuff, (fuses, connections, etc) and everything has been fine which leads me to my actuator going bad. A couple of questions about this,

Does the Transfer case have to come out in order to replace the actuator? and if so does anyone have a link to a video of a write-up on here of someone replacing their transfer case


Secondly, what is the part Number on the actuator itself mine has unfortunately been long worn away by water crossings and snow. (picture below)

Lastly is it worth replacing just the actuator or buying a new transfer case and slapping that in? If I do that though I'm just worried about this happening again, Is there any preventative maintenance that I should've been doing other than changing T case oil every other oil change?

Lots of questions, Thank you T4R

Replacing the actuator is more than a bolt on/off affair. It requires timing the motor and shift rail. I don't think it's even covered in the FSM so most people opt to replace the entire transfer case. You'll need a transfer case from a 96-98 Limited trim 4Runner.

 

[mtbtim]

Replacing the actuator is more than a bolt on/off affair. It requires timing the motor and shift rail. I don't think it's even covered in the FSM so most people opt to replace the entire transfer case. You'll need a transfer case from a 96-98 Limited trim 4Runner.

The closest I can come with helping with the replacement of an actuator was me doing it on a Lexus GX470. The Toyota FSM instructs to remove the transfer case, and crack open the case to replace the actuator. By doing some research, I figured out how to do it a better way.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/92WwOsLc39E?si=J7TBhSGdiiSM8HbJ" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Forrest931]

I did Drain the oil, it wasn't exiting nothing sparkly relatively clear still. I also forgot to mention I was camping or going on random unpaved roads in 4WD quite often but maybe I wasn't keeping it in 4WD for long enough

I will most likely end up replacing the transfer case as one assembly, does anyone have a detailed write-up on that?

and secondly is eBay my best bet for sourcing a new (used) transfer case?

Thank you all for the quick responses!

 

[RodrickHeffley]

I did Drain the oil, it wasn't exiting nothing sparkly relatively clear still. I also forgot to mention I was camping or going on random unpaved roads in 4WD quite often but maybe I wasn't keeping it in 4WD for long enough

I will most likely end up replacing the transfer case as one assembly, does anyone have a detailed write-up on that?

and secondly is eBay my best bet for sourcing a new (used) transfer case?

Thank you all for the quick responses!

There should be plenty of writeups if you search, but being that you're in California take a look at the scrapyards around, chances are there's one you can get for a lot cheaper than ebay.

 

[Zhehan]

Even though this is written in the manual as something to do, most don't do it and are fine. If you're not on a trail, or driving on icy or snow covered roads, it's not really a good idea to drive around in 4wd on pavement. You run the risk or binding your CV Axles and Differential on a turn causing a failure.

At most, it might be prudent to engage it on a quiet residential street where you're driving straight, and then disengage it when you need to make a turn.

In my opinion, it's the act of engaging and disengaging that's the most important and not the amount of miles driven. It's the actuator getting stuck in one position that causes the issue.

But, when you realize that the HIGH majority of people that own 4wd models don't do this, and can still get into and out of 4wd without issue, it's not as big of an issue as some people think it is.

I had to replace the 4WD Transfer Indicator Switch that's on the passenger side of the x-fer case years ago as it had lost continuity and the 4WD would not engage. I recently had to tighten that switch so it was fully seated. I have an SR5 with J-shifter. This is part of the preventative maintenance for that system. I put some thread lock on it.

 

[mtbtim]

I had to replace the 4WD Transfer Indicator Switch that's on the passenger side of the x-fer case years ago as it had lost continuity and the 4WD would not engage. I recently had to tighten that switch so it was fully seated. I have an SR5 with J-shifter. This is part of the preventative maintenance for that system. I put some thread lock on it.

That's interesting. Sounds like it wasn't properly tightened by someone. I'm fairly confident a properly tightened switch shouldn't come loose and a thread locker isn't necessary. I'm suspecting getting in there with the right wrench or deep socket is problematic and that's why it wasn't properly tightened to begin with. I've never tried to replace one, so I don't know if what I'm saying is accurate or not.

 

[Bad Luck]

I did Drain the oil, it wasn't exiting nothing sparkly relatively clear still. I also forgot to mention I was camping or going on random unpaved roads in 4WD quite often but maybe I wasn't keeping it in 4WD for long enough

I will most likely end up replacing the transfer case as one assembly, does anyone have a detailed write-up on that?

and secondly is eBay my best bet for sourcing a new (used) transfer case?

Thank you all for the quick responses!

I would check car-part.com and call your local LKQ. If you have any pick-n-pull type junkyards that might also be a good option. Just make sure that you are getting a 96-98 transfer case from a Limited trim. It should show the transfer case actuator motor in the listing photos if there are any photos of it.

If you look up mtbtim's youtube channel I'm sure he has a transmission replacement series which involves removing the transfer case. It's a fairly easy job, but can be a real pain in the back if you are forced to do it on the ground. I found that a stubby flex ratcheting 14mm for the transfer case nuts is a life saver.

 

[thezentree]

Even though this is written in the manual as something to do, most don't do it and are fine. If you're not on a trail, or driving on icy or snow covered roads, it's not really a good idea to drive around in 4wd on pavement. You run the risk or binding your CV Axles and Differential on a turn causing a failure.

At most, it might be prudent to engage it on a quiet residential street where you're driving straight, and then disengage it when you need to make a turn.

In my opinion, it's the act of engaging and disengaging that's the most important and not the amount of miles driven. It's the actuator getting stuck in one position that causes the issue.

But, when you realize that the HIGH majority of people that own 4wd models don't do this, and can still get into and out of 4wd without issue, it's not as big of an issue as some people think it is.

Do the early push button T-cases have a center diff? My 2001 does so I can drive around in AWD on dry pavement without problems, but I don't know if the earlier models have a center diff.

OP if the actuator is bad, you can replace the motor (not the shift rail or motor housing) pretty easily, but it sounds like it's something mechanical going on inside the transfer case.

 

[mtbtim]

Do the early push button T-cases have a center diff? My 2001 does so I can drive around in AWD on dry pavement without problems, but I don't know if the earlier models have a center diff.

OP if the actuator is bad, you can replace the motor (not the shift rail or motor housing) pretty easily, but it sounds like it's something mechanical going on inside the transfer case.

Only the 01 and 02 came with the center diff lock.

 

[96RedRunner]

Post #3 is good Info.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/82033-3rd-gen-4runner-buyers-guide.html#post706219

Link for 96 Ltd. any part number you can think of.
TOYOTA 4RUNNERVZN185L-GKPZKA - POWERTRAIN-CHASSIS - | Japan Parts EU

Mine had 100k more miles no problems chit happens.

 

[DAW89446]

I will most likely end up replacing the transfer case as one assembly, does anyone have a detailed write-up on that?

and secondly is eBay my best bet for sourcing a new (used) transfer case?

Your description of your T-case shift lever sounds much like that in my ‘02 Tacoma TRD, which has the optional 4WD button on the near (driver) side of the knob, the lever only used for 2Hi and 4Hi. Wonder if that would be a direct swap, opening up more possibilities instead of sourcing from 4Runners only.

 

[Bad Luck]

Your description of your T-case shift lever sounds much like that in my ‘02 Tacoma TRD, which has the optional 4WD button on the near (driver) side of the knob, the lever only used for 2Hi and 4Hi. Wonder if that would be a direct swap, opening up more possibilities instead of sourcing from 4Runners only.

That's not a compatible transfer case.

 

[Bad Luck]

Do the early push button T-cases have a center diff? My 2001 does so I can drive around in AWD on dry pavement without problems, but I don't know if the earlier models have a center diff.

OP if the actuator is bad, you can replace the motor (not the shift rail or motor housing) pretty easily, but it sounds like it's something mechanical going on inside the transfer case.

96-98 transfer cases don't have a center diff. 99-00 Limited and all 01-02 trims have a center diff.

 

[Forrest931]

Solution to my issue

After around 8 hours some help from a friend and a case of beer this past weekend, I was able to replace my transfer case!


I used a donor T case from a low-millage Tacoma from a parts site on eBay that I trust.

The removal and installation were difficult but doable for anyone who is considering doing this job themselves,

Remove the shifter assembly

Disconnect the shift linkage

then disconnect the rear cross-member

disconnect the rear driveshaft to the transfer case, (note) the Timmy the Toolmnan video I saw completely took off the rear driveshaft I did not find this necessary, I just took off the slip yoke connection

use the transition jack to support the Transfer case and take off the front cross-member

Then take off the front driveshaft and trans mount

after that, it's just a matter of taking off the bolts that connect the transfer case to the transmission and bench-pressing it out.

reinstallation is the opposite process.



After all of this, I filled my new t Case up with gear oil and started it, I could clearly hear the 4WD engage and disengage, the only problem I still have is that I do not have a dash light, which for me is just a small little light that should come on in the bottom right corner. If any of the die-hard third gen guys know what I forgot to connect that would be huge. other than that I was thrilled to get this job done on my truck so now I can focus on putting parts on that make my truck cooler. thanks for all the help from you guys!


Videos I used,

Toyota 4Runner Auto Transmission Replacement (Part 1 of 3) - YouTube

Toyota 4Runner Auto Transmission Replacement (Part 3 of 3) - YouTube

J Shifter 4wd Transfer Case Swap on 1998 4Runner - YouTube