3rd Gen Differential Change...Another One

flyte74

New member
So I changed my diffs and transfer case fluids this morning. Took me about two hours, but that was due to a) it was my first time doing this and b) a stupid couch my wife has stored in the garage was getting in my way and slowing me down. Anyway......

I pretty much followed the instructions here:
4Runners.org - Changing Your Front, Rear, Tranny & Transfer Case Fluids

I bought my 4Runner a few weeks ago, and had no idea what type of maintenance was due so I decided to do as much as possible.

(Completed)
1. Changed the oil. Mobil 1 10w-30, Toyota oil filter
2. Front and rear diffs, transfer case. Mobil 1 75w-90.

(The following has not been completed but will be in the next two weeks or so)
3. Spark plugs. Toyota OEM.
4. Transmission fluid change.

So back to todays project.....the fluids looked relatively good coming out....until I saw what the new stuff looked like! I was able to get the new oil in the rear diff and tc by just pouring it in, but how anyone has managed to fill the front diff without a hand pump is beyond me.

Just a few tips, some of which have already been posted (no particular order of importance):
1. Drop the spare tire, gives you more room.
2. Hit the rear diff plugs with PB Blaster the night before. I didn't and paid for it. Had to let them soak while I moved on to the tc and front diff.
3. Check to see if your front diff requires a 12mm and 10mm hex, or just the 10mm for both the drain and fill. I went out and bought a 12mm and then realized I didn't need it.
4. Heat the oil up a bit with warm water so it will flow better coming out the bottle.
5. Make sure the vehicle is level. If more than a SMALL trickle comes out when you remove the fill plug, it's probably not level.
6. Buy a hand pump, makes thing easier.
7. Use a six point socket!....not a twelve!!!
8. Wear safety glasses.

So I do have a question: Is the drain plug on the rear diff supposed to be magnetized? Mine wasn't and I'm wondering if I should go and buy the proper part. Getting it on there would require changing the fluid again though. Also, I've left my skid plate off for the time being to make it easier to check for leaks on the front diff over the next few days. Anyone know of any reasons why this would be a bad idea for me to do?

I wouldn't have been able to do this without the advice/posts/instructions of some of you, so thanks for that. You guys saved me a few hundred bucks and that's always important, especially around Christmas time!!!
 
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That all sounds good! I don't know about 3rd gen plugs but my plug isn't magnetized. True on the hand pump. I have done the same with the skids for a day or two after servicing something. The risk you run is obvious, don't go off-road or to Atlanta. Atlanta highways are fertile and seem to grow ladders:bash:
 
What's a 3rd member?

It's the center 'chunk' of the rear axle that holds the ring, pinion and differential. If you are installing a locker this is the part of the diff you're working on. To get it out you must slide the axles out, remove the driveshaft and undo the row of bolts on the front side of the rear axle housing.

I think John's point is he can do a 3rd member quickly so just a rear axle fluid change should be 30min job, as it was. The rest of your time went into the t-case, oil change and front axle.
 
check your oil specs

I believe the recommended oil for the 3rd gen 3.4V6 is 5w-30 and I would highly recommend you stick with that. Opinions vary of course but if 5W-30 is the correct weight I advise you to stick with it...

I just changed out mine today and had used up some Valvoline synthetic 10W-30 last time I changed oil. Big mistake, it came out very thin and almost watery compared to new synthetic Mobil1 5W-30.

Just my .02 sir. I am no mechanic and not pretending to be.

I also advise using stock Toyota oil filters as you did-and again opinions vary on this topic also.

Good choice on the synthetics for the diffs.
 

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