3rd gen SAS

LDForget said:
You can call bull**** all you want. I really couldnt care less about what you guys have to say, lol.

EB D44 with all new bearings + proper gears + good brakes = 100$
new shafts = 300$
new u joints = 20$
diy drive shafts = free
diy steering out of **** i already had = free
diy suspension out of **** i already had = free
misc steel and other **** plus hydro = the difference.

Don't believe me? not my problem.
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well i guess if you have your own junk yard then you can, but no body i know has that much crap just laying around... and the DIY driveshafts, steering ans suspension, well if its never gonna see the hwy and is a trailer queen then i guess you must be a fab shop worker or owner...

the reality of it is to do an SAS on a 3rd gen 4runner you are going to spend at least $2k to get it done right, thats if you do the install yourself and can weld ect.

i cant even do an SAS on an 86 or newer mini truck for $1000 anymore. and i have done one before and helped on several others, so i know what im doing, and what i need
 
the kid said:
you CAN NOT even use a mini truck axle for an SAS on our trucks(tacoma or 4runner) -not trying to yell at you scotty, just putting this out there again for everyone else.
mini truck axles have the diff on the passenger side, our transfer case dump is on the drivers side... they will not work unless you want like 20+" of lift and no articulation what so ever, then whats the point.
you will have to find another axle, a D44 out of a waggy as stated is probably your best bet.
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Yeah, you need to have a passenger drop transfer case to use the mini truck axle. It can be done though.

98 4runner w/ 85 straight axle:
Stretching its legs for the first time - YouTube
 
t4r4life said:
cool story bro, please go troll somewhere else.
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Lol im no troll. Not sure if you even know what that means.

the kid said:
well i guess if you have your own junk yard then you can, but no body i know has that much crap just laying around... and the DIY driveshafts, steering ans suspension, well if its never gonna see the hwy and is a trailer queen then i guess you must be a fab shop worker or owner...

the reality of it is to do an SAS on a 3rd gen 4runner you are going to spend at least $2k to get it done right, thats if you do the install yourself and can weld ect.

i cant even do an SAS on an 86 or newer mini truck for $1000 anymore. and i have done one before and helped on several others, so i know what im doing, and what i need
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Indeed it is a trailer queen. I dont expect everyone or anyone to be able to do a SAS for the price that ive done it for. Most people dont have the knowledge or the patience to wait around to find the deals on parts. Id agree with at least 2k to do a SAS on any vehicle without finding amazing deals. What i was disagree'ing with was 7-10k to SAS. Thats just re****ed.


t4r4life said:
typically an SAS cost around 7-10 grand, are you willing to spend the money and time?
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the kid said:
eh touche... but its a lot more work and really not worth it, i mean whats the point in doing that, its the harder way to do things if you ask me but yeah you are correct i am wrong(again)
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Its way easy to run a mini truck or fj80 front. Buy one adapter from trail gear or marlin crawler for about $250 and a gear driven case ($100) and BAM! you have yourself passenger drop and a whole new lot of axles to choose from. And the biggest plus to this is you can run 4.7:1 gear sets in the tcase to make your low real low without a doubler and all the BS involved with that.

If it was my truck it would get the fj80 front axle. perfect WMS width and strong enough.

If i was hell bent on keeping the chain driven driver drop case the waggy axle is good. But they have weak shafts and chromo ones are pricey. Or you can always flip a toyota axle.
 
J-money$$$ said:
Its way easy to run a mini truck or fj80 front. Buy one adapter from trail gear or marlin crawler for about $250 and a gear driven case ($100) and BAM! you have yourself passenger drop and a whole new lot of axles to choose from. And the biggest plus to this is you can run 4.7:1 gear sets in the tcase to make your low real low without a doubler and all the BS involved with that.

If it was my truck it would get the fj80 front axle. perfect WMS width and strong enough.

If i was hell bent on keeping the chain driven driver drop case the waggy axle is good. But they have weak shafts and chromo ones are pricey. Or you can always flip a toyota axle.
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this is the best way in my book with the 80 series axles, not to mention they are beefy as hell. and still keeping it toyota, the mini axles are not idea since they are not as wide as stock and flipping it over can be a hassle .
 
LDForget said:
Lol im no troll. Not sure if you even know what that means.
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Then why are you giving people false information? i work at a fab shop and i know for a fact 600 dollar sas is a joke, and it'll just turn out like all other heeps on the trail, broken down and blocking trails. put up a build thread of the sas for 600 dollars other wise all this talk is all BS.
 
t4r4life said:
Then why are you giving people false information? i work at a fab shop and i know for a fact 600 dollar sas is a joke, and it'll just turn out like all other heeps on the trail, broken down and blocking trails. put up a build thread of the sas for 600 dollars other wise all this talk is all BS.
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Lol i already listed the major parts and costs. Im done talking to you. Id hate to see what comes out of the fab shop you work at with a closed mind like that.
 
I used an FZJ80 axle for my sas,
axle- 1000
rebuild steering knuckles- 250-300
Johnny Joints and misc hardware- 200
IFS steering box- 75
Bilstein shocks- 150
new brakes- 150
Not to mention brake lines, power steering hoses, shock towers, coil buckets, link brackets, paint and an assload of time for research and fab time. Once you have all that done you get to buy big tires and new gears, so yes it gets exspensive quick. Its kinda like getting a free puppy.

DSC02824-1.jpg~original
 
J-money$$$ said:
Its way easy to run a mini truck or fj80 front. Buy one adapter from trail gear or marlin crawler for about $250 and a gear driven case ($100) and BAM! you have yourself passenger drop and a whole new lot of axles to choose from. And the biggest plus to this is you can run 4.7:1 gear sets in the tcase to make your low real low without a doubler and all the BS involved with that.

If it was my truck it would get the fj80 front axle. perfect WMS width and strong enough.

If i was hell bent on keeping the chain driven driver drop case the waggy axle is good. But they have weak shafts and chromo ones are pricey. Or you can always flip a toyota axle.
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wow i dont know how i have never known about the adapter... wtf to my self.
i guess sense i have never really spent a lot of time looking into doing an SAS on my truck ive never gone looking for whats out there, i just always figured that the D44 was the best(generic) option if someone was to do so... yeah that adapter is where its at and then yeah, running the LC 80 front axle, its a high pinion, and if you can get one with the factory locker, oh man! wow i feel like a real idiot now for telling you all(twice) that you cant run the toyota solid axles... :shrug::whipping2:rockthrow::withstupid: stupid kids thinking they know everything...
 
the kid said:
wow i dont know how i have never known about the adapter... wtf to my self.
i guess sense i have never really spent a lot of time looking into doing an SAS on my truck ive never gone looking for whats out there, i just always figured that the D44 was the best(generic) option if someone was to do so... yeah that adapter is where its at and then yeah, running the LC 80 front axle, its a high pinion, and if you can get one with the factory locker, oh man! wow i feel like a real idiot now for telling you all(twice) that you cant run the toyota solid axles... :shrug::whipping2:rockthrow::withstupid: stupid kids thinking they know everything...
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No worries you can always learn more.

You also have the option of taking a mini axle, cutting the knuckle balls off and flipping it to a drivers side axle and weld the knuckle balls back on.

The only issue with the fj80 front axle is the goofy low steer stuff on the back of it. High steer knuckles for it are super pricey. You can don anything to axles.

For the money the drivers drop trail gear housing is really nice
 
i think the TG driver drop is the axle id go with, sure its kinda $$$ but by the time you add up the different tcase, and adapter for that, and the cost of a FJ80 or mini truck axle(witch you are probably going to have to rebuild, and your going to have to stuff the TG axle so that cost equals out even), i dont think the TG axle would be any more $$$ and its a higher clearance axle so yeah.
 
Why go for a super cheap SAS?? For me it is waste of time and eventually, you'll spend much or more money!

Most of the members here have spent a lot of money putting good suspension kits and accessories on their trucks. Contradictory to me is to spend little money on something that takes so much effort.

If you want SAS and no have the money, better stick with your very good IFS system. IFS works fine in most cases if you use it wisely.

But if you still want a SAS, save money and go for a good SAS.

Personally I like IFS and before making a SAS, I would buy a Lotus axles ( sn0wrunner have them ), RCV axles ( expensive ) or something like that. Maybe good idea buy a first generation 4runner in good condition, I don't know.

Cheers
 
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MDST said:
Why go for a super cheap SAS?? For me it is waste of time and eventually, you'll spend much or more money!

Most of the members here have spent a lot of money putting good suspension kits and accessories on their trucks. Contradictory to me is to spend little money on something that takes so much effort.

If you want SAS and no have the money, better stick with your very good IFS system. IFS works fine in most cases if you use it wisely.

But if you still want a SAS, save money and go for a good SAS.

Personally I like IFS and before making a SAS, I would buy a Lotus axles ( sn0wrunner have them ), RCV axles ( expensive ) or something like that.

Cheers
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well said, altho i would never spend money on a set of CVS that cost 3 digits lol
 
MDST said:
Why go for a super cheap SAS?? For me it is waste of time and eventually, you'll spend much or more money!

Most of the members here have spent a lot of money putting good suspension kits and accessories on their trucks. Contradictory to me is to spend little money on something that takes so much effort.

If you want SAS and no have the money, better stick with your very good IFS system. IFS works fine in most cases if you use it wisely.

But if you still want a SAS, save money and go for a good SAS.

Personally I like IFS and before making a SAS, I would buy a Lotus axles ( sn0wrunner have them ), RCV axles ( expensive ) or something like that.

Cheers
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That's where I was gonna go too. I was in the Iraq desert not to long ago wondering if I was gonna make enough $ for an SAS. So after six months of research I found out what I wanted would be over $6K. I liked the Tacoma | Toyota, Suzuki Samurai, and Jeep Off Road Parts. Then I still needed rear gears, wheels and tires plus the spindles and hubs. Great looking kit though.

So it was that or try to rock the most bad ass IFS setup I could build for a few G's less. When I got back I had to do a 5spd swap so the SAS was out the window.

It really depends on your wheeling intentions and $. My IFS Toyota still out does all my Jeep buddies on 37's. An SAS Toyota is a BEAST so don't bite off more than you can chew. If I won the loto I'd do it but for now I'm still driving to work every day in IFS and wheeling every weekend.
15648159_large.jpg

Even on 33's
15556340_large.jpg
 
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