4.7 liter oil change questions.

[Cumby]

So Im tired of paying $50 for an oil change for my 05 4x4 V8 and thinking I may try doing it myself. Got a couple of question for those of you that do.

1. Can you access the pan drain without a jack or ramps...just crawling under?

2. How do I differentiate between transmission and oil drain plugs...read where some people have mixed them up and want to make sure.

3 Does the oil typically spill on the skid plate if not removed? I'm thinking I will go in from the top to change my filter and don't want to take the plate off every time. Just wondering how much of a mess to plan for?

4. Anyone switched to using 5w20? Wondering if it's worth switching to it if there's a potential for better gas mileage.

Thanks

 

[kevinpt]

if your lifted you can get under it to change the oil no problem. as far as the v8 things i cant answer that as i have a v6

 

[Cumby]

No lift. I guess I just need to crawl under and give it a try.

 

[Gdmeadors]

I have a V8 and for me it is just easier to drop the front skid plate. That allows you good access to the drain plug and filter. You can expect some oil to drip but I use a large piece of cardboard under my truck and put the drain pan on it. It takes me about 30 minutes or less to change oil. Oh, I can easily crawl under without jacking up my 4Runner and I am 6'3" and 220 pounds! I have no lift except the FJ front coils which gives me about 3/4" lift in front.

 

[m85476585]

I can crawl all the way under mine, at least in the middle (to get to the driveshaft), without a jack, and it's all stock. But I'm really thin, and the average person probably wouldn't fit. I haven't tried to access the engine oil drain without lifting it since I own a good jack and stands now, and that makes things a lot easier. If you're creative maybe you could find something like a curb to put the front wheels on to give you a bit more space. Of course make sure that the parking brake is firmly set and the wheels are chocked and the curb can support the weight, if you try that.

I'm using 0W20, and I haven't noticed any significant increase in fuel economy. I'm using it mainly for the decreased wear when the engine is cold since I do a lot of short trips where it never fully warms up. Toyota says 5W20 is OK for these engines, so there should be almost no risk if you want to use it.

 

[07V8]

I can crawl all the way under mine, at least in the middle (to get to the driveshaft), without a jack, and it's all stock. But I'm really thin, and the average person probably wouldn't fit. I haven't tried to access the engine oil drain without lifting it since I own a good jack and stands now, and that makes things a lot easier. If you're creative maybe you could find something like a curb to put the front wheels on to give you a bit more space. Of course make sure that the parking brake is firmly set and the wheels are chocked and the curb can support the weight, if you try that.

I'm using 0W20, and I haven't noticed any significant increase in fuel economy. I'm using it mainly for the decreased wear when the engine is cold since I do a lot of short trips where it never fully warms up. Toyota says 5W20 is OK for these engines, so there should be almost no risk if you want to use it.

There is actually a Toyot spreadsheet that says the 2UZ is not designed for 0w20 oil at all. I suggest a good 5w30 synthetic.

 

[Range]

Futomo and EZ oil drain valve make it ridiculously easy to do.

 

[Range]

I have the Futomo btw.

 

[ZiaMan]

Fumoto is the way to go. They make a short version, which only has a 2 or 3mm nipple. Still need to drop the skid to access the filter though.

Oil? Any API rated xW-30 would be fine. You have a 5000lb, V8, full-time 4WD SUV, gas mileage went out the window a long time ago. a 20wt oil won't make any difference.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

There is actually a Toyot spreadsheet that says the 2UZ is not designed for 0w20 oil at all. I suggest a good 5w30 synthetic.

I don't know if it says "Not Designed for, don't use it ever" but there is a TSB and some data that says you may use a 5w-20 in the engine and that the recommended oil is a 5w-30. If you can get us a copy of that spreadsheet I'd love to peruse it since this gets asked often.

I personally think a 0w-20 may be a bit too thin for the engine.

 

[ZiaMan]

I don't know if it says "Not Designed for, don't use it ever" but there is a TSB and some data that says you may use a 5w-20 in the engine and that the recommended oil is a 5w-30. If you can get us a copy of that spreadsheet I'd love to peruse it since this gets asked often.

I personally think a 0w-20 may be a bit too thin for the engine.

Here you go. It was released by Toyota Canada according to internet lore:
Toyota Oil Chart

BTW, 5w-20 and 0w-20 have the same viscosity/thickness/film strength at operating temp, ie, one is not thinner than the other. The difference is only below operating temp. Personally, I run a 0w-30 synthetic in my GX.

 

[m85476585]

Here you go. It was released by Toyota Canada according to internet lore:
Toyota Oil Chart

BTW, 5w-20 and 0w-20 have the same viscosity/thickness/film strength at operating temp, ie, one is not thinner than the other. The difference is only below operating temp. Personally, I run a 0w-30 synthetic in my GX.

Exactly. 0W20, cold or hot, is never thinner than hot 5W20 (except maybe slightly since there is some range of viscosity allowed for 20 weight oil).

Here's a thread where I detail my experience with it. It's not recommended by Toyota, but I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/192056-anyone-using-0w20.html#post1958430
Feel free to respond there if you want to discuss it more.

Anyway, going back to OP's original questions, I was able to reach the drain bolt without jacking up the truck or removing the skid plate, but it's not exactly comfortable. I think the oil filter would make a mess on the skid plate, so it's probably easier to remove it. The bolts that hold it on are self tapping and easily stripped. Some people recommend replacing them with regular bolts (Home Depot has them) and adding some grease to the threads. I did that, and it helps a bit, but they can still be a bit difficult sometimes.

The oil pan is under the engine, and the transmission pan is under the transmission. That's not really helpful, but it's hard to explain how to identify each one. Pictures would probably help. Attached is a map of a Land Cruiser. Ours looks a little different, but the placement is similar. Hopefully I got the labels right.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Here you go. It was released by Toyota Canada according to internet lore:
Toyota Oil Chart

BTW, 5w-20 and 0w-20 have the same viscosity/thickness/film strength at operating temp, ie, one is not thinner than the other. The difference is only below operating temp. Personally, I run a 0w-30 synthetic in my GX.

The viscocity index is not as accurate as you would think. You can have 5 different 5w-30 oils and they will all flow differently than each other (but at their cold and hot temps they'll be the same.) So while it may be similar by the numbers; it might actually flow differently in between.

Again, not saying you couldn't use 0w-20, just that there's more to it than it appears.

 

[Top Shelf Synthetics]

Stick with 5W-30, MPG gains from 5W-20 would be very minimal, if anything at all. For your climate in SC, 5W-30 will protect your engine year round. Removing the skid would be the cleanest way to do it, just a little more work. I prefer Amsoil and follow 15K/one year OCI's.

 

[ZiaMan]

The viscocity index is not as accurate as you would think. You can have 5 different 5w-30 oils and they will all flow differently than each other (but at their cold and hot temps they'll be the same.) So while it may be similar by the numbers; it might actually flow differently in between.

Again, not saying you couldn't use 0w-20, just that there's more to it than it appears.

Yep, aware of the varying thickness allowed within specs but didn't want to get too technical for others.

However, Toyota 0w-20 is one of the thinnest 20wt oils you can buy, so maybe that's why they make a distinction between recommending 5w-20 but not w-20. Thinks that make you go hmmmm...

 

[Cumby]

Thanks for all the advice. How long do you guys go with conventional oil? My mechanic has always pushed 3000-4000 miles and I highly trust him. He has many times told me I didn't need something and saved me money. I've been more liberal with some other cars but use my 4 runner to tow my ski boat.

 

[Top Shelf Synthetics]

I would say your mechanic is right with his recommendation for conventional oil. I've seen anywhere from 3-5K, I would probably shoot closer to 3K if your towing alot. Remember to check/change F & R Differential's, Transfer case and Transmission with towing also.

 

[4wordSOUL]

Correct Fumoto oil drain plug for '04 V8?

Is the Fumoto F108S FS-Series Drain Valve with Short Nipple the correct one for the 4.7L V8?

 

[RL Lemke]

Conventional oil? As in regular petroleum?

No friggin' way because it doesn't offer the same lubrication offered by synthetic oils. This is because conventional oil relies on additives for performance. Additives which are the 1st to go when stressed by use.

Synthetic oils don't rely on additives because the long chain molecules provide the lubrication over a far longer life.

Now at 363,580 miles on my V8, I have changed the oil each and every time myself. I change it every 10,000 miles, but for a while changed it every 15,000 miles. Simpler to remember every 10, so do it on the 10s.

Amsoil synthetic 0w-30. 0w because it offers lubrication faster when starting cold. 30 because that is the oil viscosity the Toyota engineers designed the engine around when at operating temperature. Viscosity is a critical specification for all engines.

My engine uses zero oil, as I check and compare oil level before oil changes. I never spare the horses when driving, towing or smashing through blizzards or through desert sands.

Finally added the Fumoto oil drain valve. Should have done it a long time ago. Get the straight down version as the side opening one makes it harder.

I also use a larger Amsoil synthetic oil filter. The EAO34 fits fine.

 

[Terminator03]

Conventional oil? As in regular petroleum?

No friggin' way because it doesn't offer the same lubrication offered by synthetic oils. This is because conventional oil relies on additives for performance. Additives which are the 1st to go when stressed by use.

Synthetic oils don't rely on additives because the long chain molecules provide the lubrication over a far longer life.

Now at 363,580 miles on my V8, I have changed the oil each and every time myself. I change it every 10,000 miles, but for a while changed it every 15,000 miles. Simpler to remember every 10, so do it on the 10s.

Amsoil synthetic 0w-30. 0w because it offers lubrication faster when starting cold. 30 because that is the oil viscosity the Toyota engineers designed the engine around when at operating temperature. Viscosity is a critical specification for all engines.

My engine uses zero oil, as I check and compare oil level before oil changes. I never spare the horses when driving, towing or smashing through blizzards or through desert sands.

Finally added the Fumoto oil drain valve. Should have done it a long time ago. Get the straight down version as the side opening one makes it harder.

I also use a larger Amsoil synthetic oil filter. The EAO34 fits fine.

I agree on using quality synthetics, and also on the 0w-30. I use Mobil1 0w-30 personally. I thought about getting a Fumoto valve, but honestly removing the plug is the least bit of hassle involved with changing oil, and since it’s so infrequent with the miles I put on (have several vehicles, so none get driven a lot) probably not worthwhile.