4r 1988 lock door button broken/missing

[SomeDay]

I can't block the doors of my 4R 1988 because the door lock button's broken or missing.

Is it possible to buy or adapt something similar?

Thank you for your time reading this.

 

[fourwd1]

According to the wiring diagram the lock/unlock switch is just a SPDT center - off switch. You can get a rocker style switch like that at any automotive or marine store.

 

[mholme]

Those master panels are expensive to replace. Poke around eBay. Or just live with it til you can find one cheaper from a part out or junkyard. You can still lock the doors manually.

 

[SomeDay]

According to the wiring diagram the lock/unlock switch is just a SPDT center - off switch. You can get a rocker style switch like that at any automotive or marine store.

So that's a button which goes back to the middle possition, whenever I lock or unlock the doors. Is that correct?

 

[SomeDay]

Those master panels are expensive to replace. Poke around eBay. Or just live with it til you can find one cheaper from a part out or junkyard. You can still lock the doors manually.

You're correct, I can lock the doors manualy, with my left elbow and my right hand

There're not a lot of 80s 4Runner here where I live, I have more chances of winning the lottery that find a 4R in a junkyard.

Ebay sellers don't like to send this kind of items overseas (at least the stuff I wanted to get). I think it's better to try to find something similar to replace. But as you said, I can live with it until I find one.

Thank you for your time reading this.

 

[SomeDay]

If somebody can upload one photo of that button, I'll know exactly what I'm looking for.

Thank you!

 

[Recdiver]

Door lock pic from my 88

Here's my pic from my 88

 

[fourwd1]

So that's a button which goes back to the middle possition, whenever I lock or unlock the doors. Is that correct?

Yes.

 

[SomeDay]

Here's my pic from my 88

Thanks that photo I know exactly what I'm looking for.
I trully appreciate your help.

 

[RAD4Runner]

Hi Someday,
Found this post!
Let's start by making sure that the door lock relay module is restored to stock and works first, because the window control takes power from it (Pin 12, blu with red stripe).

 

[SomeDay]

Thanks a lot for your help Ray!
I'd like to do explain a little bit better the situation.

My T4R SR5 first gen doesn't have power window and door control relay/module, the one placed in the passenger side, behind the ECT.
I'd like to install one.

Context:
The PO changed the order of some pins from the master and passenger door switch small harnesses:



The PO did some modifications in the power window and door control relay connector, wire harness side:



The PO did other changes, I can operate the driver, passenger and rear windows no key in the ignition switch (as you know, the rear window has a different relay).
I think he did it to bypass the missing relay.

I'd like to install the relay to be able to use the power door lock.
I undid the PO modifications, in the switches harnesses and in the relay conector (harness side). Pins're in the right position in every connector, but when I check it, the circuit's not correct based in the FSM BE-43 specifications.
The pin 9 (black) and 12 (blue with red stripes) are the problem:





What I know for sure:
The master and passenger switches continuity between terminals's correct in both, I checked them removed from the truck:



The power window motors work correctly.
The lock selonoids operate good also.

Something's wrong, but I don't know how to find it.

Ray, I'm going to follow your instructions tomorrow morning, I'll update the thread with the results. Thanks a lot for your help!

 

[RAD4Runner]

...
I'd like to install one (relay).

Need to start with the relay. Re-Wire it the way it should be wired:
Pin 2 to Door Lock circuit breaker
Pin 5 to power window circuit breaker.
Pin 8 to IGN fuse.
Verify wiring to door solenoids.
Verify wiring of pin 9 to door courtesy switch.
Then we do functional test as I described above.

The PO did other changes, I can operate the driver, passenger and rear windows no key in the ignition switch. I think he did it to bypass the missing relay.

Yes, he modified it. You should not be able to operate doors or windows unless IGN is on. MOST LIKELY, he connected pin 12 directly to always on 12V.

The pin 9 (black) and 12 (blue with red stripes) are the problem

EXACTLY what results are you getting when you test pin 9 or pin 12?

You are following inspection procedure ON THE HARNESS SIDE OF THE RELAY CONNECTOR with it disconnected from relay, correct?

Pin 9 should go to door courtesy switch. When doors are closed, there should be no continuity to ground. When any door or both doors are opened, there will be continuity to ground.

Inspection guide for Pin 12 is NOT accurate. Pin 12 gets 12V when certain conditions are satisfied. Continuity to ground will cause a short. The favorable result (when that procedure is followed - testing harness side) should say "READ RESISTANCE OF THE MOTOR". IF YOU DISCONNECT THE MOTOR THERE SHOULD BE NO CONTINUITY TO GROUND






What I know for sure:
The master and passenger switches continuity between terminals's correct in both, I checked them removed from the truck:



The power window motors work correctly.
The lock selonoids operate good also.

Something's wrong, but I don't know how to find it.

Ray, I'm going to follow your instructions tomorrow morning, I'll update the thread with the results. Thanks a lot for your help![/QUOTE]

 

[SomeDay]

Need to start with the relay. Re-Wire it the way it should be wired:
Pin 2 to Door Lock circuit breaker
Pin 5 to power window circuit breaker.
Pin 8 to IGN fuse.
Verify wiring to door solenoids.
Verify wiring of pin 9 to door courtesy switch.
Then we do functional test as I described above.


Yes, he modified it. You should not be able to operate doors or windows unless IGN is on. MOST LIKELY, he connected pin 12 directly to always on 12V.

EXACTLY what results are you getting when you test pin 9 or pin 12?

Weird ones.
From the pin 9 I get these readings:
Driver door close - passenger door close : No continuity.
Driver door open - passenger door close : Continuity
Driver side open - passenger door open : Continuity
Driver side close - passenger door open : No continuity

Problem with the passenger courtesy switch? By the way, when I open the doors, the courtesy light from both doors turn on.

With the pin 12 the readings are these:

Shows always continuity.
The continuity's interrupted only when I lock the windows, and when I roll the passenger windows up (only up), from the master switch and from the passenger switch.

You are following inspection procedure ON THE HARNESS SIDE OF THE RELAY CONNECTOR with it disconnected from relay, correct?

Correct, inspection procedure on the harness side of the relay connector.

Pin 9 should go to door courtesy switch. When doors are closed, there should be no continuity to ground. When any door or both doors are opened, there will be continuity to ground.

Inspection guide for Pin 12 is NOT accurate. Pin 12 gets 12V when certain conditions are satisfied. Continuity to ground will cause a short. The favorable result (when that procedure is followed - testing harness side) should say "READ RESISTANCE OF THE MOTOR". IF YOU DISCONNECT THE MOTOR THERE SHOULD BE NO CONTINUITY TO GROUND

Pin 12, I disconnected the window motors, the reading's as you say, no continuity to ground.

From my point of view (a point of view of total ignorance in the subject) it looks like the pin order/position in the door switches harnesses's not correct, but I've checked that.

Thanks a lot Ray!

 

[RAD4Runner]

Weird ones.
From the pin 9 I get these readings:
Driver door close - passenger door close : No continuity.
Driver door open - passenger door close : Continuity
Driver side open - passenger door open : Continuity
Driver side close - passenger door open : No continuity

Proper logic is:
If Driver side OR passenger open = continuity
If both are open = Continuity

Yes, the courtesy switch on passenger side is either disconnected or broken or out of adjustment. Pretty simple to check. It's just a switch that closes when door is opened.

Will look into pin 12 later. BTW, do you already have the door lock relay?

 

[SomeDay]

Proper logic is:
If Driver side OR passenger open = continuity
If both are open = Continuity

I was expecting that, but I got No Continuity when I open the passenger door.

Yes, the courtesy switch on passenger side is either disconnected or broken or out of adjustment. Pretty simple to check. It's just a switch that closes when door is opened.

I'm going to check the passenger courtesy switch.

Will look into pin 12 later. BTW, do you already have the door lock relay?

I'm looking at it right now, it's on the table, 30 years old Toyota door control module, part number 85980-89101.

Thanks a lot!

 

[RAD4Runner]

Hi Someday,

...The PO changed the order of some pins from the master and passenger door switch small harnesses

Please restore above^^^ connection to stock based on schematic and we'll test that sub-assembly off the truck.



Reposting Schematic here for ease of reference:

 

[SomeDay]

Hi Someday,
Please restore above^^^ connection to stock based on schematic and we'll test that sub-assembly off the truck.

That's one of the first things I've done, but I'll check them again, just in case.

Reposting Schematic here for ease of reference:

We expect a couple of days with rain, I hope to be able to test it during the weekend. I'll update the readings.
Thank you Ray!

 

[SomeDay]

Hi Someday,

Reposting Schematic here for ease of reference:

Hi Ray!

After checking the power window and door lock control relay connector (harness side) this is what I got:

D (Black) doesn't go low/zero when I open the passenger door, but it goes when I open the drivers door one.

F (Blue-red stripes) doesn't get 12V, the reading's zero.

The power windows CB and door lock CB read 12V.


I dismounted the dashboard, steering column panels, gloves compartment, etc. to have a better access and be able to check for problematic wires, but I couldn't find anything wrong.

 

[RAD4Runner]

After checking the power window and door lock control relay connector (harness side) this is what I got:

D (Black) doesn't go low/zero when I open the passenger door, but it goes when I open the drivers door one.

Driver side OK, Either you don't have that option on passenger side or switch is disconnected. Look for push-type switch on door frame and check for its condition and wiring.

The power windows CB and door lock CB read 12V.

And you got these readings at points A and B ON THE HARNESS?

F (Blue-red stripes) doesn't get 12V, the reading's zero.

Now if you connect the window control relay to the harness, the harness should have power and "F" should now have 12V.