4Reak Show's build/use/nonsense

[Voltan73]

The 3.4 has been known to have injectors crap out here & there. We were selling a decent amount of them in years past; less of these come through the shop now, needless to say.

 

[4Reak Show]

The 3.4 has been known to have injectors crap out here & there. We were selling a decent amount of them in years past; less of these come through the shop now, needless to say.

Awesome to hear that. I also learned there’s older and newer style injectors. I currently have the older style. So I’m gonna go with the newer version after I confirm the ECM/harness is fine. That will be an adventure for next week. But man is it sad seeing the old girl laid up...

 

[Dropzone]

Long post, beware...
Right now I'm in the research phase of the project so it's all up in the air. Here are my thoughts and options from my current Internet scouring:

The Ford tanks seem to be the go-to but upon finding some pictures, they're actually pretty darn big. Which would require potential exhaust relocation or a body lift. Not really what I want to do.

The current idea I found is a tank from a 94-97 Corolla. Only 13 gals but it's a lot smaller and shorter so it would tuck better with a lot less modification of surrounding area. I haven't had a real chance to lay down and do a million measurements to confirm but I'm leaning this way.

As far as transfer system goes, I totally agree. Mounting a stock Corolla tank means a stock pump would have no issue transferring the fuel. The plumbing is where I start having issues especially because CA requires smog and EVAP is a huge part of that.

So my idea is to just have the systems connected but seperatable (if that's a word...) for example, have the EVAP vapor line T'd in all the time since that feeds the charcoal canister and would allow for the second tank to be totally sealed for bugs and dirt or whatever. Also the EVAP system would theoretically still work the same since the entire fuel system would remain sealed, it just draws vapors from a larger "single" container source.

Then there's the filler neck... Land cruiser's from Australia have a crazy dual system filler with a butterfly valve

Issue being this part is like $600. Nope. So I'm thinking of getting 2 junkyard 4Runner filler necks, cutting them in such a way to essentially recreate the above picture and welding them together into a Y... Then puting a large stainless ball valve to the hose of the aux tank. That way I control when I fill the aux tank.

The end game is to flip a switch, have the aux pump fill the main tank through its own filler hose with a secondary small hose HIGHER that runs back to the aux tank's return line. This would mean there is zero chance of overfilling and spilling since any overfilling would just pump the fuel back into itself essentially also eliminating the need for an additional gauge and such. Details haven't been finalized just yet.

This gas tank project is going to be massive. Any ideas or thoughts are welcomed.

Edit:
I was thinking about this all day and looked around under the truck and near the filler neck and had the simplest idea, albeit not the coolest. Have the spare tank as nothing more than a storage vessel. Completely seperate altogether. Run the vent hose for EVAP to a little filter or something tucked away under the truck and have the filler neck for aux tank standalone as well. Then simply have a coil of hose with a 1/4 turn valve on it and a toggle switch nearby to run the aux pump and just refill the main tank via the stock filler neck. Leaves all the factory plumbing unmolested and allows for basic storage of fuel with minimum alterations to the vehicle. Downside being you have to get out to actually fill it up but I didn't see that as that big of an issue really. Sure beats having 2 jerry cans flopping around on the roof.

I also looked into tank selector valves and found that to be whole nother mess dealing with switching the supply and return sources as well as level senders and fuel pumps. Overall, the last idea is the easiest cheapest and simplest way to carry extra fuel without losing storage.

So I haven't checked your thread for awhile, but your aux gas tank thoughts got me to thinking and a Jeepster/Commando gas tank came to mind for some reason.
Need to get dimensions but I think something like this might work - of course will need some stuff to make it work but think it could be done for about $325'ish
JEEP JEEPSTER COMMANDO 14 GALLON NEW GAS TANK W STRAPS REAR FILL STYLE | eBay

 

[4Reak Show]

So I haven't checked your thread for awhile, but your aux gas tank thoughts got me to thinking and a Jeepster/Commando gas tank came to mind for some reason.
Need to get dimensions but I think something like this might work - of course will need some stuff to make it work but think it could be done for about $325'ish
JEEP JEEPSTER COMMANDO 14 GALLON NEW GAS TANK W STRAPS REAR FILL STYLE | eBay

Awesome thanks man. I haven’t posted much anyway. 2020 was nuts: had a son, bought an RV and changed jobs. So I was pretty preoccupied. I appreciate the thoughts though.

The fuel tank project took a major back burner especially due to the misfire. Of which I have an update to anyone following. I’m 99% sure it’s the injector.

Let’s cover the basics of an internal combustion engine. 5 things are needed to operate: 1) air 2) fuel 3) compression 4) spark/ignition and 5) the correct timing of all those events.

1) since it’s a single cylinder (P0303/cylinder #3) we can rule out air as the issue

3) compression checks on ALL cylinders ranging from 185-195 across the board. Healthy engine mechanically.

4) relocated the spark plug and coil to a different cylinder, still flagged #3. Not spark.

5) again, only one cylinder affected so it’s probably not valve timing, or ignition timing.

2) FUEL! The Air/Fuel Ratio gauge proved a lean condition. (Strike one). I backprobed an injector test light at the connector and confirmed light is flashing while misfiring. (Strike two). I also listened with a stethoscope while misfiring and the suspect injector sounded much weaker than a known good. (Strike three).

I also unplugged the injector while running and confirmed I was testing the correct cylinder since the engine didn’t run worse with it disconnected.

So I’ve ordered a set of injectors to replace and will report once they show up. I don’t want my truck completely down so I will wait until the parts show up.

 

[4Reak Show]

Sonuvab!tchgodamnitmotherf*cker. Replaced injectors for the misfire and everything was going wonderfully. Until

Center bolt for the supercharger pulled the threads out of the intake manifold. Never even got tight. F*ck. And that bolt did feel gummy when I took it out so it was on the way out. But still. F*ck. I would have had it DONE tonight. F*ck. Oh well. Hunt for a helicoil tomorrow. At least the hole is dead center, straight up and down. Easy to access.

Did I say f*ck?

Injectors courtesy of five0 motorsports. Appear to be OEM so that’s good. Appear to be slightly used, confirming advertisement of rebuild JDM slightly used injectors, again good. Performance has yet to be tested.

You know, that center bolt does clamp down cylinder 3/4 so I wonder if that played a part in my misfire? Maybe? Probably not. ECM flags lean codes with fierce efficiency. Ask me how I know that.

F*ck

 

[4Reak Show]

Alrighty she is BACK. Runs like a top again. Better than ever before actually. Only did a quick test drive but it’s a noticeable difference thus far.

Helicoil worked like a charm.

I did find a spot for some slightly longer bolts, albeit only grade 8.8 instead of 10.9 like what that current bolt it. I just don’t like how it only grabs like 3-4 threads. I would prefer the ten or so the helicoil has to offer. But for now, it’s running great again.

Hats off the five0 motorsports for a great product so far.

 

[Dropzone]

Nice! Glad you got it fixed

 

[4Reak Show]

The underhood LEDs made injector replacement and intake thread repair soooo much nicer.

 

[Hyde802]

Dang those are bright!

 

[4Reak Show]

Just got back from my biggest trip ever in the 4Reak Show. 1217 miles, 4 complete days from leaving to coming home, 2 states.

This was the route: left Bay Areadrove to Tonopah, NV (A), to Vegas (B) back home to Bay Area.

Left Monday (4/12) evening and drove all night to Tonopah where I met my uncle there for a sweet ass camp set up. Stayed up to watch the sunrise with a cocktail for my birthday (4/13).

Stayed all day Tuesday and Tuesday night.
Say a bunch of wild donkeys and the landscape is just wiiiiiide open

30 mph winds and 40 degrees Tuesday night. Miserable. And I loved it.

Left Wednesday (4/14) and drove to my uncle’s house in Vegas. Stayed there helping with projects that night and Thursday (4/15). Left at 8 am Friday (4/16) and got back home around 6pm.

My feet stink, my knee is sore, and my butt is tired of being in that seat. But it was a great adventure. Happy to have gone, happy to be back home with my family.

 

[4RunnerSafari]

Looks like a nice roadtrip

Sent fra min WAS-LX1 via Tapatalk

 

[Voltan73]

Nice trip, always liked desert camping.
Happy belated as well. You have the same birthday as my wife.

 

[4Reak Show]

Nice trip, always liked desert camping.
Happy belated as well. You have the same birthday as my wife.

Yeah it was a trek. But awesome.

Small world on birthdays eh?! Easy to remember

 

[4Reak Show]

I tend to always find something to do at night in the garage. As I was tinkering around last week our outdoor cat (who came with the house when we bought it 7 years ago) started making a real weird noise. Looked over and she had done a wonderful pest control job

That could have been the little bastard that chewed up my wife’s 5th gen injector wires a few months back. One less to worry about.

 

[Dropzone]

pest control is always great!

a few years ago a mouse was in our house and our 3 cats were not sure what to do since they have been inside their entire lives.

Shopvac worked wonders

 

[4Reak Show]

pest control is always great!

a few years ago a mouse was in our house and our 3 cats were not sure what to do since they have been inside their entire lives.

Shopvac worked wonders

Yeah I hear that. On top of the outdoor only cat above, we have 4 indoor only; had 5 at our peak until one died.

Anyway, it’s funny how some lose the killer instinct. All but one of our indoor cats are stone cold lazy asses.

 

[4Reak Show]

I’ve been dealing with a front end rattle for the entirety of my possession of the 4Reak. Metallic sound, most noticeable on washboard type roads, especially with a wall or cement guardrail next to me with the windows down to amplify the sound. Early on in ownership I replaced upper ball joints, lower ball joints, wheel bearings, inner tie rods, outer tie rods, steering idler arm, steering stabilizer, sway bar bushings, sway bar links, even CV axles and control arm bushings upper and lower to polyurethane. None of that made a single decibel of difference in the noise.

Some research in the last couple years lead me to the spindle bushings upon which the CV axle shafts ride. There is a special tool to pump grease into those cavities, a maintenance item I knew nothing about and have never performed. I’ve heard horror stories of replacing those bushings and since I’ve switched to AISIN manual hubs I saw even less reason to replace the bushings and instead fabricated my own special tool to just grease the piss out of them.

I procured a couple bearing nuts from a junkyard, the 54 or 55mm huge ass thin nuts that thread onto the spindle. I then welded one onto about a 4” long piece of 2” square tubing, capped the square and tapped a zurk fitting into the end. I packed my special tool full of grease and then finally undertook the task. Not too bad really.

I’ve heard this job can be done without removing the tires but with my hub covers it was too much of a pain. I opted to pull tires.

Here’s the special tool. You can find companies that make and sell them for like $80-100. Mine cost $2 for entry fee to the junkyard.

You remove the wheel, the hub assembly and the secondary bearing nut (the outer nut only) and install this tool in place of it. When pumping, it forces grease into the spindle bushings since it’s mostly sealed. The CV starts to move inboard once the packing process begins. Took 25-30 pumps of grease. So that cavity in question was BONE dry from 26 years of never being maintained.

Driver side went easy. Took about an hour all included from jacking up to torquing lug nuts. Passenger side went faster but with one hiccup: the locking ring that is single-splined onto the spindle was damaged. The ear that splines onto the spindle was no longer adequate and wouldn’t provide much locking. Luckily, when I had acquired the bearing nuts I referenced earlier, I also apparently took home a slightly used locking ring.

My motto is “it’s better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it.” So I must have brought that ring home subconsciously because I had no other reason to have the spare in one of my parts bins. Very stoked to have had it.

Anyway, I won’t be driving it again til later this week but I’m VERY confident that 17 year noise I’ve been chasing will be gone. CV axle play is night and day different. Prior it would wiggle in all 3 dimensions and it felt very metallic and similar to the noise. Now it’s TIGHT. Zero play in any direction.

If anyone in the area ever wants to borrow my special spindle bushings grease tool you’re welcome to it. Save some money and have a beer with me and get rid of an annoying ass noise.
[MENTION=271848]Voltan73[/MENTION] I’m looking at you....

 

[4RunnerSafari]

That's a good idea, will deffently make one my self.

Before i assemble my steringknucles and cv's i add grease inside the bushing, but i guess i could add more to stable the cv more in center of the bushings.

Sent fra min WAS-LX1 via Tapatalk

 

[4Reak Show]

Just wanted to update. After 17 years of dealing with that insanely annoying rattle noise it is confirmed totally 100% GONE! The truck seems to ride so much smoother and quieter but I think that’s in my head. Probably because I got used to that noise and it was just always background noise.

At any rate, anybody with a 1st or 2nd gen 4Runner or pickup and has a stupid front end metallic rattle, this greasing procedure solves it.

 

[SaulG]

NUMBER 003 (REVISED)
DATE 04-27-90
MODEL RN6/VN6, RNO/VN0,
RN1/VN1, RN3/VN3 Better badder bushings...

Or just ditch the Brass bushings for T100 bearing