4runner ADD (auto. diff. disconnect) & locking hubs...Please read!

Leave the ADD in place with manual hubs and you have the best of both worlds. I am going to go back and get the one side to start saving parts for this conversion.

YOU CAN DO THAT!? I thought you had to be one or the other as the CV's and diffs were splined different for the non-a.d.d.

What all is needed for this hybrid setup? Any threads with examples of people who have done it?
 
Holy crap leave the add alone. Don't reinvent the wheel when stuff is working fine. Yes, my add failed at the bottom of a river bed but that's why I Have a winch and a locker. Spend the $1k on better suspension or on Maintenance parts. Or give it to me, I'll spend it better than manual hubs.

My add failed because of a $60 switch, I'd rather have that go wrong than have to rebuild or replace the hubs. Don't forget that people with the manual hubs are very much the minority or they have more money than sense. I'm drunk and going to bed now.
 
Here's an idea... wire a switch to disable ADD so that when you select 4WD differential doesn't actually lock up. This way you can shift into 4LO in high-traction situations (like a super steep asphalt driveway) and essentially be in 2LO. Anyone done this? Any reason why it shouldn't work?
 
YOU CAN DO THAT!? I thought you had to be one or the other as the CV's and diffs were splined different for the non-a.d.d.

What all is needed for this hybrid setup? Any threads with examples of people who have done it?

I used the manual hubs w/spindles and cvs out of a 96 tacoma. The cvs go right into the 4Runner's front dif. Ball joints if you need them, I reused mine as they were all newer at the time. Tie rod ends, same deal.

IF you do it that way you will lose your abs. You will need the speed sensor out of said Tacoma and some easy wiring to make your speedo work because the abs is what works our speedos.

To keep your abs and speedo as is you can move the parts off the tacoma spindle onto your 4Runner spindle. Count on getting new wheel bearings and related parts. Make sure whoever does the presswork knows how to not destroy the precious brass bushings in the manual hub. ORS has them if they do. Toyota does not sell them separate.

Count on a little extra maintenance. Everything will work like add so long as the hubs are locked. Unlocked and the cvs don't move.

An aside: It seems extreme to me to do this to keep the boots from self-destructing. I'd look into a boot stretch before I'd go to manual hubs just for that.
 
I have a 1990 Toyota 4Runner that I swapped the 3.0 with the 3.4 and I'm having problems with my Speedo cable I was wondering if there was a way to swap it to a digital speedometer
 
4runner ADD (auto. diff. disconnect) & locking hubs...Please read!

I have a 1990 Toyota 4Runner that I swapped the 3.0 with the 3.4 and I'm having problems with my Speedo cable I was wondering if there was a way to swap it to a digital speedometer

What a horrible thread to revive for your question. Definitely a question for the 2nd gen 4Runner forum.
It would be much easier to fix whatever problems you are having with the cable speedo than to try to convert to a digital speedo. If your cluster is a cable speedo cluster, changing it to digital would require a '92-95(digital) cluster, plus a fair bit of wiring to make that cluster work in your rig.
 
Taco hubs dont require you to change out your add differential tube, unless you want to get rid of all the electronics system. Just replace the wheel bearing and add the hubs on. Benefits is 2wd low range, and like everyone else said you can replace your broken cv or blow diff somewhere more comfortable if you have too. My collection of Tacoma hubs!��
 

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Taco hubs dont require you to change out your add differential tube, unless you want to get rid of all the electronics system. Just replace the wheel bearing and add the hubs on. Benefits is 2wd low range, and like everyone else said you can replace your broken cv or blow diff somewhere more comfortable if you have too. My collection of Tacoma hubs!��

dude stop hording all the Aisin FHT-019 hubs.
 
Here's an idea... wire a switch to disable ADD so that when you select 4WD differential doesn't actually lock up. This way you can shift into 4LO in high-traction situations (like a super steep asphalt driveway) and essentially be in 2LO. Anyone done this? Any reason why it shouldn't work?

I did that and it worked great. I removed it when I swapped to manual hubs.

Here's my cruddy write-up of how to do it http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/184158-low-range-two-wheel-drive-mod.html
 
ADD failure

Did anyone find a way to fix the add. My diff isn’t locking in and I’m not getting a light on my dash. When I go to 4lo the hearing changes but still no 4wd. I live in Idaho and winter is coming I’m hoping to get this solved soon
 
There is a switch on the passenger side of the transfer case. Pull the connector and jump the wires. If the dash light comes on, replace the switch. It's around $60 at Toyota.
 

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