4runner over heating

l3igl3ang

New member
hi guys my 2wd 4cly is over heating for some odd reason! it just started this the other day. The fuilds is full so i dont know what it could be. it gets worse when i stop then when i drive it will go back down any ideas?
 
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i wish you the best of luck on this journey. i had the same issue on my 3rd gen. replaced EVERYTHING except the radiator.
ended up just trading it in.

is it truly overheating or just the needle saying it is?
 
o its over heating for sure cause when i got out and checked it was bubbleing like crazy the raditor hose look like it was bout to explode it was shakeing from the bubbleing. its a clutch fan so i would asume it would be working. I just top the thing off with some water its filled to the max.

I had to get the raditor fixed not to long ago it sprung a leak and it was patched. only other thing i could think of would be theromstat or water pump which usely if its the pump it will leak ot make noise letting u know its gone out.
 
yeah that will be the first thing i try cause the 4r has 300k miles on it and no telling if it was ever changed.
 
im 10000% sure on stuck thermostat, thermostat turns on when the truck reach around 190 degrees, then it opens and allow coolant to cool the truck, so its its stuck close then only thing cooling it would be the wind it self, get a new thermostat they are cheap and easy to replace.
 
Same thing happened to me dude changed thermostat first helped but didn't fix, even changed water pump and hoses still no dice, then radiator, I guess the stock one that lasted 14 years finally was clogged or something lol. So new radiator in and haven't had a problem since. Another thing to consider would be leaking freeze plugs as well.
 
Same thing happened to me dude changed thermostat first helped but didn't fix, even changed water pump and hoses still no dice, then radiator, I guess the stock one that lasted 14 years finally was clogged or something lol. So new radiator in and haven't had a problem since. Another thing to consider would be leaking freeze plugs as well.

leaking freeze plugs are very rare. OP you can always do a CLR threatment on your coolant system, have your coolant flushed with clr really helpes, also check to see if your coolant temp sensor is good or not, by using the ohm meter.
 
ok will do a flush on it as well cause i know its not the temp senor cause it was boiling over big time. I drove it tonight and never over heated at all but its cooler though. My friend unle uses dish washer soap for cleaning he says it works really well as well and hes a geniuse when it comes to auto's he can tear motors and trannys apart and rebuild them like nothing.

The clr thats that clr cleaner right that u get in the household section?
 
ok will do a flush on it as well cause i know its not the temp senor cause it was boiling over big time. I drove it tonight and never over heated at all but its cooler though. My friend unle uses dish washer soap for cleaning he says it works really well as well and hes a geniuse when it comes to auto's he can tear motors and trannys apart and rebuild them like nothing.

The clr thats that clr cleaner right that u get in the household section?

yes it dissolved rust and other build up, watch for your rad when you drain the coolant, if your rad is full and its barely draining, your rad might be gone, you can get an aluminium one they will never rust. also dont use soap lol and try not to drive the truck, it only takes 2 mins for the truck to go from 30 degrees to 190, dont wanna overheat it too bad and risk a blown head gasket or a warped valve or piston.
 
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and when you drain the coolant make sure you drain everything, there is a drain plug at the bottom of the rad ,and the right side of the engine block.
 
also just in case test the coolant temp sensor, there should be two prungs on the plug use the ohm meter, when its cold it should read 5-10 ohms it gets lower as it gets hotter.
 
i suggest you get a ultragauge or a scangauge for the future, that way you can monitor your engine temp in real time, its a good investment, all obdII cars can use it. its a pretty cool tool, also scan engine codes. btw your thermostat should open around 160-183, fully open at 203 and fully closed at 107. super easy to change also, two nuts to undo the hose to the engine block, then it should come right now, to install all you need are the new gasket and the unit it self should take around 20 mins. let me know how it goes and i'll try to help you some more.
 
If the truck overheats at stopped or slow-moving idle, and cools when in motion, it strongly suggests a bad fan clutch. It's an easy fix.

A healthy fan clutch makes a definite roar at initial start-up for a few seconds. If the truck is overheating, try and stop the fan (carefully!) with a rolled newspaper or magazine. If you can, clutch is shot.

Here's my how-to on the swap: 1998 3.4 Auto 4Runner, Overheating Issue, Suggestions? - Page 3 - YotaTech Forums
 
If the truck overheats at stopped or slow-moving idle, and cools when in motion, it strongly suggests a bad fan clutch. It's an easy fix.

A healthy fan clutch makes a definite roar at initial start-up for a few seconds. If the truck is overheating, try and stop the fan (carefully!) with a rolled newspaper or magazine. If you can, clutch is shot.

Here's my how-to on the swap: 1998 3.4 Auto 4Runner, Overheating Issue, Suggestions? - Page 3 - YotaTech Forums

doh! didnt even think about that. but its good to change the thermostat if it hasnt been done for a while.
 
ok i will give the fan a try i know a dude who has 2 tacomas wrecked with the same motors so i can get a fan pretty cheap. Never new a clutch fan could go out.
 
ok i will give the fan a try i know a dude who has 2 tacomas wrecked with the same motors so i can get a fan pretty cheap. Never new a clutch fan could go out.

Just remember any used fan clutch will have ten years plus on the clock and this failure is getting pretty common. An OEM Aisin clutch from rockauto.com or similar is less than $100. Since mine failed on the approach to the Lincoln Tunnel, I consider this a fairly mission-critical part.
 
If it overheats at a stop and cools down while you drive it is probably your fan clutch. Spin the fan by hand with the engine off. If it free spins your clutch is bad. It should not want to spin much almost like spinning a wheel with the brakes slightly on.

seems after i posted i noticed a second page... looks like the fan clutch was already mentioned. Anyways thats most likely your issue as others have suggested.
 
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