4th gen Adjustable Upper Control Arms

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I have them. They work great. Only thing i dont like is the ever changing bushing bullshit with SPC. They come out with a redesign every 3 weeks (dramatic). Its annoying but the UCA is a good one and i have all my adjustability.
 
LTDSC said:
I have them. They work great. Only thing i dont like is the ever changing bushing bullshit with SPC. They come out with a redesign every 3 weeks (dramatic). Its annoying but the UCA is a good one and i have all my adjustability.
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IMHO I think a set of DSM, Camburg or a Total Chaos are a more solid option. No bushing BS, no cracking welds but they are all fixed settings. Again that is just my opinion.
 
ebg18t said:
IMHO I think a set of DSM, Camburg or a Total Chaos are a more solid option. No bushing BS, no cracking welds but they are all fixed settings. Again that is just my opinion.
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Id agree for solid/jumping and heavy abuse. My friends taco with TC arms doesnt have near the alignment capabilities i do which to me is huge as i enjoy my caster maxed on alignment. His truck is very jumpy.
 
LTDSC said:
Id agree for solid/jumping and heavy abuse. My friends taco with TC arms doesnt have near the alignment capabilities i do which to me is huge as i enjoy my caster maxed on alignment. His truck is very jumpy.
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The max castor I can achieve right now is ~5 (probably similar to SPC). I am at 3.5 (stock range), but going back to get it set a tad higher, maybe 4-4.25 to get the wheels shifted a tad forward. Personally I don't see the need for more castor than 5... Especially at my 3.5-3.75" lifted height. I can't speak for TC or Camburg.
 
ebg18t said:
The max castor I can achieve right now is ~5 (probably similar to SPC). I am at 3.5 (stock range), but going back to get it set a tad higher, maybe 4-4.25 to get the wheels shifted a tad forward. Personally I don't see the need for more castor than 5... Especially at my 3.5-3.75" lifted height. I can't speak for TC or Camburg.
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im just outside of 4 if i remember right. I can definitely tell when the alignment shop is lazy afterwards. His is all aligned factory spec so could be why his is so jumpy.

We're about the same height arent we?
 
LTDSC said:
im just outside of 4 if i remember right. I can definitely tell when the alignment shop is lazy afterwards. His is all aligned factory spec so could be why his is so jumpy.

We're about the same height arent we?
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Yep, we are both cranked a tad..

The alignment tech makes all the difference. I think I will bring mine up to 4 ish.
 
LTDSC said:
I have them. They work great. Only thing i dont like is the ever changing bushing bullshit with SPC. They come out with a redesign every 3 weeks (dramatic). Its annoying but the UCA is a good one and i have all my adjustability.
Click to expand...
and the ball joints suck
op Save your money go with something decent for another $200
it will be money well spent
trust me.....
ebg18t said:
IMHO I think a set of DSM, Camburg or a Total Chaos are a more solid option. No bushing BS, no cracking welds but they are all fixed settings. Again that is just my opinion.
Click to expand...
this ^^^^^^^^^^^
 
ebg18t said:
Yep, we are both cranked a tad..

The alignment tech makes all the difference. I think I will bring mine up to 4 ish.
Click to expand...

Forgive me if this is a noob question, but how do you change the caster with the uniball upper arms? Do you change the lower cam bolts around to shift it out and then correct the toe with the tierod?
 
ebg18t said:
The max castor I can achieve right now is ~5 (probably similar to SPC). I am at 3.5 (stock range), but going back to get it set a tad higher, maybe 4-4.25 to get the wheels shifted a tad forward. Personally I don't see the need for more castor than 5... Especially at my 3.5-3.75" lifted height. I can't speak for TC or Camburg.
Click to expand...

Is this right? From my understanding, more caster will shift the tires towards the rear, less caster will shift it forward?
 
Brutalguyracing said:
and the ball joints suck
op Save your money go with something decent for another $200
it will be money well spent
trust me.....

this ^^^^^^^^^^^
Click to expand...

I've only put about 6k miles on mine and no issues. Even with a boot clamp broken and romping in Pismo where sand gets in everything. No issues yet :shrug:
 
LTDSC said:
I've only put about 6k miles on mine and no issues. Even with a boot clamp broken and romping in Pismo where sand gets in everything. No issues yet :shrug:
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gl
over 4 years running them
they have cost me a set of tires
3 bj replacements
3 bushing failures...
so many man hours always fixing them...
had enough i threw them in the garbage
literally.

here is some of mine
006 - YouTube

062 - YouTube

061 - YouTube

2011 05 13 08 38 07 411 - YouTube

2011-05-12_18-20-17_749.3gp - YouTube

for anyone even considering these DON'T DO IT
i know you don't wheel right......
i have personally seen an arm weld snapped off...lucky guy didn't crash..
and he has never went wheeling in his life
 
Troymclure said:
Forgive me if this is a noob question, but how do you change the caster with the uniball upper arms? Do you change the lower cam bolts around to shift it out and then correct the toe with the tierod?
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The upgraded UCA's are castor corrected which allows the tech to change the castor to the proper amount via the lower cam bolt.

I am not a tech, so I am not 100% how/what gets adjusted other than the cam bolt. I bet someone else can chime in with more info.
 
Brutalguyracing said:
2011 05 13 08 38 07 411 - YouTube
Click to expand...

Brutal, did you have this installed backwards? IIRC, on the gold bracket/spacer/sliding do-hickey, the SPC logo should face outwards (the rounded side) versus the opposite (flat side). Perhaps I'm looking at this wrong or you had a older model.

Crossing my fingers I got a good set. I know a handful of people on the forums have had issues with them before. GL with yours OP.

EDIT: NVM, looks like you're right. My memory is shit. See 3:30 in the install video. OP just FYI there is a video installation.
http://www.spc-tv.com/install/lt-suv/64-25480-toyota-4runner-and-fj-upper-control-arms.html
 
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ebg18t said:
The upgraded UCA's are castor corrected which allows the tech to change the castor to the proper amount via the lower cam bolt.

I am not a tech, so I am not 100% how/what gets adjusted other than the cam bolt. I bet someone else can chime in with more info.
Click to expand...
this is correct.....most aftermarket arms have i think almost +2* caster built into arm.....
check out the manufacturers specs on arms before purchasing
and like above ^^^ then its just the factory cams to be adjusted.....
assuming yours have not seized due to Toyota's in ability to use grease on then...errr
don't get me started on that one either
g/l to all
nitrag said:
Brutal, did you have this installed backwards? IIRC, on the gold bracket/spacer/sliding do-hickey, the SPC logo should face outwards (the rounded side) versus the opposite (flat side). Perhaps I'm looking at this wrong or you had a older model.

Crossing my fingers I got a good set. I know a handful of people on the forums have had issues with them before. GL with yours OP.

EDIT: NVM, looks like you're right. My memory is shit. See 3:30 in the install video. OP just FYI there is a video installation.
25480 - Toyota 4RUNNER and FJ Upper Control Arms
Click to expand...
they are adjustable so technically thee is no right side to face out
that is the neutral setting which is +2* if i remember correctly...
that being said
i have had my POS arms in and out many many many times....
i fully aware of how they install unfortunately
spc was good about it there customer service was great at first.
but it still gets old swapping in and out the arms and bj's
then almost 1 year later to date bj's shot again...
call sorry that's a wear item ...really 30k is all you get out of them
i have pics of a new one they sent where u can see pitting starting already on the joint....
some are greased some are not much if any.....
crap if you ask me....where is quality control....
i think i was at 3 different bushing stlyz all because of failure
i just cut out the old bushings and installed their "NEW" ones for $25 and i see now it looks like it has changed again.....
f that for an extra $200 get some tc, dsm, camb.,ect.....
i just picked up a set of ready lift ones.....i will report back on them

this is my opinion from MY PERSONAL EXP.


i also know a guy whos cracked at the weld and he never wheeled...
i will try to find that pic
 
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i have had them for 3-4 years now. not 1 issue. same bushings, same ball joints, no wear on tires.

get alignment every year, grease ball joints every oil change.

took it to get an alignment this year, did not need it. settings did not change.
 
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