4th Gen Back-up light bulb

Offroader

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I would like to replace the stock back-up light bulb with a 50 Watt halogen light bulb.

What's the correct bulb size?

The manual just says it's a 16W Type C wedge bulb.

Is this a 3156 size bulb?

Also, are there any overload/overheating concerns with replacing a 16W bulb with a 50W halogen?

Thanks in advance
 
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That's a huge difference in wattage. I do believe the plastic housing will start to melt. I would also check the size of fuse for that circuit and make sure that the new load is below that size fuse. Do not replace that fuse with a bigger one.
 
This is what I added to aid in backing up at night. Very hard to see with the back window tinted over stock tint.
 

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Colemanfu said:
This is what I added to aid in backing up at night. Very hard to see with the back window tinted over stock tint.

I would suggest insulating that power wire going through the frame.

Koz
 
Applying one very basic electrical engineering equation it will be easy to see if this is possible for you or not.

One thing to keep in mind is that this large change in wattage will lead to alot more heat then the space in the lamp was designed for. Without even going into the numbers you may melt the housing by doing this. Lets assume for a minute that it doesn't

Right now the stock bulb has a power of 16W. This means that it draws 1.33 amps from the battery because P=V*I or I=P/V where I is the current, P is the power and V is the voltage. Your truck's electrical system operates at the battery voltage of 12V.

Switching to a bulb that has a power rating of 50 W more than triples the current drawn from the battery to 4.17 amps. You are now drawing an additional 5.68 amps (difference between 1.33A*2 lights and 4.17A*2 lights) into the circuit.

Now I doubt that the reverse lights are on a fuse of their own, but lets assume for a moment they are. They would most likely be on a 5A fuse (1.33A*2 lights = 2.66 A < 5A) with wiring designed for 5A max current. Applying the numbers above the new bulbs would draw (4.17A*2 lights = 8.34A > 5A). Upon installing the new bulbs and turning them "on" the fuse would immediately blow as the circuit is drawing more current than the fuse is designed for.

The easy fix here is to install a fuse w/ a greater max load limit. This is a BAD IDEA!!!!! Your truck's wiring was designed to carry a set amount of current, in this case 5A max. If inserted, say, a 10 A fuse, the weak spot is now the wiring itself, not the fuse. The wires would cook off the insulation and become so hot they could start a fire. Many cars have gone up in flames because of people's ignorance to these type of things.

All circuits in a car or truck are designed the same way. They determine the load of all the devices on the circuit, infer a current (I) number, and design the wire and fusing appropriately with usually a small safety factor built in. For example, if the total load on a circuit infers a current of 18A, they would most likely use a 25A fuse instead of a 20A fuse. A decent amount of difference between operating range and max range, but as you can see from the example above, if you installed the 50W bulbs it would still end up blowing the fuse. The problem of melting wires is more common in cars because the inherently low voltage of the battery means bigger differences in current draw per change in load (i.e. light wattages).

NEVER REPLACE FUSES WITH ONES OF HIGHER RATING.

My recommendation: Leave them as they are. 50W is too much power for the reverse light. Try an alternate solution like the hitch mounted light, or separate reverse lights altogether.

You've been schooled..
 
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The simple solution is to replace the bulbs with super bright LED bulbs, which would provide more light drawing less amps.

I personally think the 50w bulbs would be fine. You would have to check the circuit to make sure the wiring, socket, lens, and fuse could handle it. I dough they would design that circuit for less then 10 amps. I think It would not be a problem. You have to remember the reverse lights would only be on momentarily. Some dielectric grease on the bulb connection and check for overheating or melting, should be fine!

Koz
 
Koz said:
The simple solution is to replace the bulbs with super bright LED bulbs, which would provide more light drawing less amps.

I personally think the 50w bulbs would be fine. You would have to check the circuit to make sure the wiring, socket, lens, and fuse could handle it. I dough they would design that circuit for less then 10 amps. I think It would not be a problem. You have to remember the reverse lights would only be on momentarily. Some dielectric grease on the bulb connection and check for overheating or melting, should be fine!

Koz
LED's would work, but I'd still be wary about the 50W bulbs. You are more than tripling the current here!!! Nobody designs for that. I'd like to know what circuit they are on so I could check myself.

As for the comment about them being on "only for a few seconds" or "momentarily", that is a myth. Copper wires heat up instantly and fuses blow instantly, I was a EE in undergrad, I've seen it happen!!!
 
OUTRNNR said:
As for the comment about them being on "only for a few seconds" or "momentarily", that is a myth. Copper wires heat up instantly and fuses blow instantly, I was a EE in undergrad, I've seen it happen!!!

I agree, if the circuit is designed for less then the current draw. Someone must have the wiring schematic!

Koz
 
Hitman said:
'

Good post and very informative, but it's nothing new to me.... One of my other cars had extremely dark tint on the rear window, so I bought a set of 50-watt halogen bulbs to replace the dim stockers... and guess what? No problems whatsoever. No melted lenses (reverse lamps aren't typically illuminated long enough to cause any type of heat damage), no blown fuses and no melted wires. Go figure.

Fair Enough. I'm just trying to put the science behind it.
 
Koz said:
I agree, if the circuit is designed for less then the current draw. Someone must have the wiring schematic!

Koz

Or new loads were introduced to bring the current draw higher than the designed amount.
 
Did you not see my trailer hitch mounted light, I even gave you the web site in the post. It has two 55 watt halogens, that should give you enough light to back up with the tinted window and sunglasses on.

I really must agree that replacing that bulb with a 50 watt halogen is a bad idea. Your looking at a large current draw, and melting the plastic lens is something very sure to happan.

If in the past you did something like this and it worked, it does not make it correct or safe, it is a problem waiting to happan.
 
As per the wiring diagram, the back-up lights are on the 15A IG1 circuit fuse with a whole lot of other lights and relays. I wouldn't upsize the bulbs. Do they even make a higher wattage bulb to fit this socket style?
 
If the circuit is 15 amps, then it should be no problem, since a 55 watts bulb only draws about 4.5 amps. You shouldn't have any problem with the lense melting either, since you only turn on your back up lights for a minute or less at a time. I agree with some of the other on this forum though, aux. back up lights are the safest way to go.
 
Just because the circuit is rated at 15A doesn't mean the bulb socket and wiring leading to it is. But, I still stand by my post that I think it would be OK if these things were checked.

Koz
 
Boston_Runner said:
If the circuit is 15 amps, then it should be no problem, since a 55 watts bulb only draws about 4.5 amps. You shouldn't have any problem with the lense melting either, since you only turn on your back up lights for a minute or less at a time. I agree with some of the other on this forum though, aux. back up lights are the safest way to go.

There is more than just the reverse lights on this circuit, meaning that there will be more current drawn through the fuse.

What happens when you need to back a boat down a busy ramp? Or when you are wheeling up a single-track trail and someone comes down the same place you are and you have to back up 500 yards til they can pass you. Then you're talking alot of time on those lights, housing and wiring. My point is there are going to be times when the lights are on for longer than a "minute or less" at a time.

I know this is taking it a little far, but you can't discount it.

Hey, do whatever you guys want...Its not my truck...I'm just trying to put the facts out there...
 

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