4th Gen Brake Upgrade Question

[firebirdguy]

I I took my car to the shop to change the ABS assembly and they give me this part number 47050-35030.
But when I order it to the dealer they said that that part did not fit but still sold it to me.
I own a 2006 4Runner SR5 6 cylinder 4.0.
Did I get screw or that part will fit multiple vehicle?.
I paid $1,900 for that. I hope that will work. I do not know what to do.

you paid $1900 for a part that they told you doesnt fit your vehicle?

sorry i cant confirm if the part fits multiple vehicles, but if the dealer said it wont fit yours i would return it ASAP. call a junk yard or post a wanted ad here for the right ABS unit for your car. you dont need to buy a new part for that.

 

[MY06T4R]

I have done a good amount of research but still have some questions on front brake kits for 4th gens. I have a seized caliper and am looking to do a brake upgrade to potentially avoid this situation in the future as well as have overall better braking performance. I am looking at the Powerstop towing kit on Rockauto.com and wondering if I should get the 4Runner specific one, or if there is any advantage to getting the Tundra one and fitting that for the 4runner. I have a 2006 limited and the 4Runner kit says its a 319mm rotor which I believe is the smaller SR5 rotor size? Any advice or suggestions are welcomed.



4runner Specific Kit: More Information for POWER STOP KC13736



Tundra Kit: More Information for POWER STOP KC232436

I did the 5th gen 4Runner brake upgrade front and rear with power stop calipers and 5th gen OEM rotors with Wagner pads. I have been very happy with them, I have not had any luck with the cross drilled slotted rotors in the past. No modifications were needed for this upgrade. I have had them on for a year and no issues at all and it stops great.

 

[MY06T4R]

Just clarifying this statement. Only the 5th gen rear rotors cause issue. The fronts work fine.

I am running 5th gen OEM front and rear rotors with no problems.

 

[overlandout]

I am running 5th gen OEM front and rear rotors with no problems.

I know a lot of people have said that. But, the 5ths are 2mm larger in hub diameter.

I have wondered if there's a minor change between two models that help that 2mm difference. I would say, stick with 4th gen rears so you dont run a risk of needing to throw out a set of new rotors.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[MY06T4R]

I know a lot of people have said that. But, the 5ths are 2mm larger in hub diameter.

I have wondered if there's a minor change between two models that help that 2mm difference. I would say, stick with 4th gen rears so you dont run a risk of needing to throw out a set of new rotors.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Here are the part numbers for the rear rotors that I put on my 06 4runner. 4243160311. You can look them up on the toyota parts website and see what they fit. I don't have a stake in what you use, just letting you know what I used on mine. I did use the 5th gen calipers as well, not sure if that is why it is said they will not fit. But I did my bakes all at once. There for I can not speak to whether or not you have to have the calipers in order to fit.
Here are the part numbers for the front rotors I used. Part Number: 4351260191 Supersession(s): 4351260190. As previously stated I used 5th gen calipers, Power Stop brand to be specific.

 

[That_Titanium_4RNR]

Here are the part numbers for the rear rotors that I put on my 06 4runner. 4243160311. You can look them up on the toyota parts website and see what they fit. I don't have a stake in what you use, just letting you know what I used on mine. I did use the 5th gen calipers as well, not sure if that is why it is said they will not fit. But I did my bakes all at once. There for I can not speak to whether or not you have to have the calipers in order to fit.
Here are the part numbers for the front rotors I used. Part Number: 4351260191 Supersession(s): 4351260190. As previously stated I used 5th gen calipers, Power Stop brand to be specific.

The reason people have issues with them (myself included) is because the flange bore is slightly too big and does not allow the rotor to be properly centered thus when it rotates, it catches on the e-brake assembly in the drum.

I also did all my brakes at once. I am using all 5th gen stuff except rear rotors. It works great this way and I don't have to worry about future problems.

Not saying your way is wrong, because it's obviously working for you, but I would never recommend someone getting 5th gen rear rotors after what I experienced.

 

[Ed_C]

4th vs 5th gen rear brake info

Searched Raybestos Brakes' online lookup, entered 2012 for the 5th-gen and 2006 for the 4th-gen:

Rear brake calipers
4th-gen has a larger piston, 2"/50.8mm vs 5th-gen's 1.89"/48mm.
All this time I assumed GX470's use the same rear calipers since they're the same 120 chassis as our 4th-gens. According to Raybestos the 5th-gen caliper is also used on both GX470 and GX460, 1st-gen Sequoia, and 80-series Landcruiser/LX450. I wonder if the GX470 is a misprint :noidea: I'll try remembering to write down the casting #s when I rotate the tires on my folks' GX.

Rear brake rotors
Outside/overall diameter 12.286"/312mm both generations
Bore diameter - looked this up on Autozone, Raybestos didn't have the specs listed - 106mm 4th gen, 108mm 4th gen
4th-gen rotor also used on GX470, FJ Cruiser up to 2009, 1st-gen Seq.
5th-gen rotor also used on GX460 and 2010-2014 FJ Cruiser

Rear brake pads
Same pads for both generations

The 5th-gen rotors' larger bore diameter is what [MENTION=296097]That_Titanium_4RNR[/MENTION] mentioned about the rotors not centering properly.

TL/DR - for best fitment stick with 4th-gen rotors when updating to 5th-gen rear brakes because they have the same overall diameter and thickness. Pads are also interchangeable.

 

[Toyrundrive]

rr racing BBK

I shelled out the cash for the RR racing big brake kit.

First off, their customer service is garbage and they're pieces of crap, barely qualifying as human and I don't understand how nobody has sued them and taken everything.

Second: Their hub brackets are ALL MISDRILLED by about 1/8-1/4" I didnt measure, I just marked and redrilled.

Third, they send standard fittings and tell you that they match up to your metric fittings. Bunch of morons if you ask me.

I can get the hardline part numbers from NAPA if you want. Napa makes a 6" hardline with the proper metric fittings on one side, and the proper standard fittings on the other. I have a few spares in my glove box. I originally bent my hardlines a little too far and they sprung a leak after a jostle in a snow storm. As it turns out, my rock sliders are the perfect diameter to bend these by hand.

So once you solve all the details that the idiots at RR Racing screwed up:

They are great on a 6000lb plus rig. Stopping distance is limited by tire tread now instead of fading brakes.

I did install their larger banjo bolt on my rear calipers so the rear bites harder, but they are wearing the rear pads a bit faster than I would like. The banjo bolt has a larger hole, it is physically the same size. I DO NOT RECCOMEND the larger bolt, "stainless steel flex lines" option as the fittings are garbage and require way too much force to get them to seal. Also added wear.

I've had zero issues braking with these Wilwood Aero6 calipers. Just know that they don't fit properly and you'll need to head to napa for the proper hardlines. and you'll need a drill press for the hub bracket.

the bleeder valve is 1/4" and sits in its own fitting; a little weird but not a huge problem. It may be covered in paint and difficult to see. it took a few seconds for the fluid to bust the paint out of the hole.

Don't even bother talking to the idiots Simon or Rafi. they're useless and will only blame you for their own shortcomings.

I'm happy with the Wilwood product.

 

[Inv4drZm]

I shelled out the cash for the RR racing big brake kit.

First off, their customer service is garbage and they're pieces of crap, barely qualifying as human and I don't understand how nobody has sued them and taken everything.

Second: Their hub brackets are ALL MISDRILLED by about 1/8-1/4" I didnt measure, I just marked and redrilled.

Third, they send standard fittings and tell you that they match up to your metric fittings. Bunch of morons if you ask me.

I can get the hardline part numbers from NAPA if you want. Napa makes a 6" hardline with the proper metric fittings on one side, and the proper standard fittings on the other. I have a few spares in my glove box. I originally bent my hardlines a little too far and they sprung a leak after a jostle in a snow storm. As it turns out, my rock sliders are the perfect diameter to bend these by hand.

So once you solve all the details that the idiots at RR Racing screwed up:

They are great on a 6000lb plus rig. Stopping distance is limited by tire tread now instead of fading brakes.

I did install their larger banjo bolt on my rear calipers so the rear bites harder, but they are wearing the rear pads a bit faster than I would like. The banjo bolt has a larger hole, it is physically the same size. I DO NOT RECCOMEND the larger bolt, "stainless steel flex lines" option as the fittings are garbage and require way too much force to get them to seal. Also added wear.

I've had zero issues braking with these Wilwood Aero6 calipers. Just know that they don't fit properly and you'll need to head to napa for the proper hardlines. and you'll need a drill press for the hub bracket.

the bleeder valve is 1/4" and sits in its own fitting; a little weird but not a huge problem. It may be covered in paint and difficult to see. it took a few seconds for the fluid to bust the paint out of the hole.

Don't even bother talking to the idiots Simon or Rafi. they're useless and will only blame you for their own shortcomings.

I'm happy with the Wilwood product.

My brother called the owner multiple times on a Saturday and Sunday with issues he had, they overnighted a few parts to fix the wrong ones they sent. So I guess mixed review here too.

 

[Toyrundrive]

My brother called the owner multiple times on a Saturday and Sunday with issues he had, they overnighted a few parts to fix the wrong ones they sent. So I guess mixed review here too.

What were the incorrect parts? I politely informed them about the standard threads (this was like 8, months ago) that don't come anywhere close to sealing properly when mated to metric threads, and they kept arguing that it's the same. I'm sorry but any dipshit with a sixth grade education can figure that one out.

I then told them that the brackets were misdrilled and they started whining about me redrilling it. "We didn't tell you to do that" no shit Simon, the holes are off I don't need your dumbass to tell me how to fix it, especially when Simon kept arguing that metric and standard threads are the same. For skid plate bolts, sure why not get them standard threads on there and do some light retapping but not for a ****ing brake line. I'm not the only member here with the exact same problem with the high school dropouts at rr racing

 

[MY06T4R]

The reason people have issues with them (myself included) is because the flange bore is slightly too big and does not allow the rotor to be properly centered thus when it rotates, it catches on the e-brake assembly in the drum.

I also did all my brakes at once. I am using all 5th gen stuff except rear rotors. It works great this way and I don't have to worry about future problems.

Not saying your way is wrong, because it's obviously working for you, but I would never recommend someone getting 5th gen rear rotors after what I experienced.

Okay, I will have to take your word on that, as my e-brake stuff was removed prior to purchase, I assume that something was broken when they replaced the axle bearing. I chose not to reinstall/ purchase new e-brake part when I did my brake upgrade.

 

[Inv4drZm]

What were the incorrect parts? I politely informed them about the standard threads (this was like 8, months ago) that don't come anywhere close to sealing properly when mated to metric threads, and they kept arguing that it's the same. I'm sorry but any dipshit with a sixth grade education can figure that one out.

I then told them that the brackets were misdrilled and they started whining about me redrilling it. "We didn't tell you to do that" no shit Simon, the holes are off I don't need your dumbass to tell me how to fix it, especially when Simon kept arguing that metric and standard threads are the same. For skid plate bolts, sure why not get them standard threads on there and do some light retapping but not for a ****ing brake line. I'm not the only member here with the exact same problem with the high school dropouts at rr racing

Yeah, standard threads vs metric. This was a couple weeks ago. I think something else, not including banjo fittings maybe, but I don't know.

 

[Toyrundrive]

Yeah, standard threads vs metric. This was a couple weeks ago. I think something else, not including banjo fittings maybe, but I don't know.

Maybe they got their shit together after I told them what I thought.

The reason I was so shitty with them is that I went back and forth for quite a while about the issues referenced on this site. Simon assured me everything would be fine, and it was not. I'm glad I'm not sporting their shitty company logo.

 

[Ed_C]

Not the first time a RR kit had brake fitting or line issues Front Brake Line

 

[Terminator03]

Okay, I will have to take your word on that, as my e-brake stuff was removed prior to purchase, I assume that something was broken when they replaced the axle bearing. I chose not to reinstall/ purchase new e-brake part when I did my brake upgrade.

Wow, I thought I was the only “lucky one” who had his e-brake guts ripped out by a prior owner! Unfortunately, testing the e-brake is an essential part of the yearly inspections here in MA, so NOT having it work was definitely not an option. What pissed me off though, was that the car dealer I bought it from obviously did a fraudulent inspection because the car was inspected with a brand new sticker when I picked it up, and because I never use the e-brake on my automatic trans cars, I never bothered to try it until I was checking stuff out right before the sticker was due the following year. Not too much fun to piece back together, when you have nothing to start with!

 

[MY06T4R]

Wow, I thought I was the only “lucky one” who had his e-brake guts ripped out by a prior owner! Unfortunately, testing the e-brake is an essential part of the yearly inspections here in MA, so NOT having it work was definitely not an option. What pissed me off though, was that the car dealer I bought it from obviously did a fraudulent inspection because the car was inspected with a brand new sticker when I picked it up, and because I never use the e-brake on my automatic trans cars, I never bothered to try it until I was checking stuff out right before the sticker was due the following year. Not too much fun to piece back together, when you have nothing to start with!

Haha, yes it was great, it was originally just the drivers side that was missing, and when I was doing the brake upgrade, the passenger side was all junk anyways, and it was just easier to remove that then to start all over. And you are right, the dealer clearly "overlooked" the e-brakes. Sad. I am fortunate enough to not have to do any inspections here.

 

[SHagood]

With adding my spare tire carrier, full-size spare, hi-lift, sliders, and skids the additional weight on my oem brakes are catching up. Anybody have anymore opinions on the power stop z36 kit after running it for a few months? Will that kit fit on the oem calipers? For $357 on amazon and the positive comments on this thread, seems like an easy move.

Thanks in advance!

 

[metramm]

I installed the powerstop z36 front rotors and pads (338mm) on my 06 limited 4wd 2 months ago.

After the bedding in process, the braking is light years ahead of the warped factory rotors I took off.

Highly recommend the kit and it bolted straight on with no issues.

Bought mine from Summit Racing and they had it at my door in 2 days vs a week that amazon was quoting and for the same price.

 

[SHagood]

I installed the powerstop z36 front rotors and pads (338mm) on my 06 limited 4wd 2 months ago.

After the bedding in process, the braking is light years ahead of the warped factory rotors I took off.

Highly recommend the kit and it bolted straight on with no issues.

Bought mine from Summit Racing and they had it at my door in 2 days vs a week that amazon was quoting and for the same price.

After a few months of having the kit, any feedback?

 

[SHagood]

Went on the Power Stop website and filled out the questionnaire, and for a 2008 4Runner they recommend:

Power Stop Performance Brake Pads Rotors Kit KC2405A-36
Power Stop Extreme Truck & Tow Brake Kits | Power Stop

With the red powder coated calipers, AutoZone has the rear kit for $341 and Summit Racing has it for $309. I'm going to replace just the rear for now, and will likely do the front in the near future to avoid shelling out $800 for both front/rear.